HowTo Engine break-in

[Tomisimo]

I found this info on a great site with many articles about engine build and such.
Because many of us do engine rebuilds I thought this info may be useful to break-in engine correctly to avoid further issues.

Cylinder Wall Preparation

Hone Cylinders with 280 grit, followed by a light 380 grit Brush with a 60 degree cross-hatch per Honda’s instructions.

Do NOT allow your machine shop to exceed the recommended clearances, or excessive cylinder oiling will result!

For faster ring seating use 280 only.

We use and recommend the use of Sunnen Automatic Honing Equipment for cylinder wall preparation.

Engine Break-In (1000 Miles)

Use only genuine Honda Oil Filters !!

Use 05-30 non-synthetic motor oil ONLY !!

Do Not operate the engine over 3,500 RPM during the first 200 miles of driving. You may increase the engine speed by

500 RPM for each successive 200 mile increment of break-in.

Replace the Honda Oil Filter after the first 200 miles of operation.

Change the oil and filter after 1000-1200 miles of operation. You may use synthetic, or a quality non-synthetic oil.

We use and recommend the use of 05-30 Mobil 1 motor oil.


Minimum Piston to Cylinder Head Clearance


With Stock Factory Rods: .045”
With Forged Aftermarket Rods: .040”- .047”

Minimum Piston to Valve Clearance


Intake Valves: .050”

Exhaust Valves: .060”

Minimum Valve to Valve “Clicking” Clearance .040”

al info taken from TheOldOne

[Hauntd ca3]

good info tommi!
would like to add tho, dont "labour" the motor
as in dont try and make it lug from low engine speeds.
make the motor work a bit, dont baby it but dont thrash it
if you are lucky enuff to live near some hilly roads or in the mountains, go do the first 300 or 400 miles there.
get one of those magnetic oil filter wrap things or those new filters with a magnet in them just to help keep the oil cleaner.
i use some old permanent magnet starter motor magnets on mine and they work a treat.
i run with the heater on full heat for a few hours, as a new motor will run hotter than a run in one and excess heat is bad.
and use a good quality anti freeze/anti boil such as prestone or castrol antifreeze/antiboil and run at about 65% af/ab to 35% distilled water.

[Tdurr]

I found this info on a great site with many articles about engine build and such.
Because many of us do engine rebuilds I thought this info may be useful to break-in engine correctly to avoid further issues.

Cylinder Wall Preparation

Hone Cylinders with 280 grit, followed by a light 380 grit Brush with a 60 degree cross-hatch per Honda’s instructions.

Do NOT allow your machine shop to exceed the recommended clearances, or excessive cylinder oiling will result!

For faster ring seating use 280 only.

We use and recommend the use of Sunnen Automatic Honing Equipment for cylinder wall preparation.

Engine Break-In (1000 Miles)

Use only genuine Honda Oil Filters !!

Use 05-30 non-synthetic motor oil ONLY !!

Do Not operate the engine over 3,500 RPM during the first 200 miles of driving. You may increase the engine speed by

500 RPM for each successive 200 mile increment of break-in.

Replace the Honda Oil Filter after the first 200 miles of operation.

Change the oil and filter after 1000-1200 miles of operation. You may use synthetic, or a quality non-synthetic oil.

We use and recommend the use of 05-30 Mobil 1 motor oil.


Minimum Piston to Cylinder Head Clearance


With Stock Factory Rods: .045”
With Forged Aftermarket Rods: .040”- .047”

Minimum Piston to Valve Clearance


Intake Valves: .050”

Exhaust Valves: .060”

Minimum Valve to Valve “Clicking” Clearance .040”

al info taken from TheOldOne

WRONG!

check it.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

first 20miles of the motor being in load seats the rings properly. Gotta get on it like a bat outta hell.

[paul]

WRONG!
check it.
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
first 20miles of the motor being in load seats the rings properly. Gotta get on it like a bat outta hell.

+1... It's been proven time & time again, and approved & used by countless engine build/assembly shops.

[Dr_Snooz]

WRONG!

check it.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

first 20miles of the motor being in load seats the rings properly. Gotta get on it like a bat outta hell.

+1... It's been proven time & time again, and approved & used by countless engine build/assembly shops.

Much respect to both of you, but are you seriously asking me to believe some random joe on the internet vs. the best engineering minds at Honda who have produced countless engines all capable of running 300k, 400k and 500k without issue? I'm sure this guy is smart, but Honda's engineers are working with the best computer models, the best advanced degrees, the best motorsports engineering teams and the best research universities behind them. There is just no way I'm going to trust some guy on the internet making claims based on shop teardowns when i don't trust shops to begin with.

I've probably overstated my case, so let me speak against myself by saying that I've heard anecdotally that GM breaks its cars in this way (or at least used to). Someone on the line gets in the car after it's done and revs it to redline holding it there until it's broken in. Obviously, GM thinks this method is okay, but then, it's arguably a lesser car.

[Hauntd ca3]

the dyno run in i have heard about, and read articles by some of the most respected engine builders and tuners in australia and new zealand .
but they do it over about 100km under varying loads,speed and revs and have fantastic results.
it is something i think would be worthwhile researching properly be for making a decision on.
talk to various builders and tuners whom you respect and find there opinion.
make a decision based on research you have made and go from there

[paul]

I wasn't refering to the honing of the cylinder walls, which is proven to be beneficial during break in, but the
Do Not operate the engine over 3,500 RPM during the first 200 miles of driving. You may increase the engine speed by
500 RPM for each successive 200 mile increment of break-in. part...

Bottom line is call up a well respected engine builder in your area with decades of experience, and listen to what they have to say.

[Rendon LX-i]

theres so many ways to break in a engine....i always do the 500mile and change it and other 500 and i was good....

[conozo]

I dont think there is one particular way to break in an engine. I think it depends on the type of engine, how you want to drive it, and what will it be used for, racing/daily/hauling.

Do new car manufactures break in engine before they are put on the lot for sale? If so how do they do it there. I definitely agree that you should change the oil and filter more frequently but whether in driving it slow or crazy i think it depends. I would just drive it like you normally would and as you will drive the engine years later. At least that what i did with my engine.

[Ichiban]

Call me right or wrong, but here's how I break in my engines:

-Prelube engine with oil via prelubing shaft, or by turning over with plugs out.
-Start engine. Immediately increase idle to approx. 2500 RPM
-Idle for at least 15 minutes, checking gauges and cooling system.
-Shut 'er down, check all fluids, retorque manifolds and head bolts if required. Also, set "hot" valve lash if required.
-Street drive the car, ensuring everything works for the break in runs.
-In 2nd or 3rd gear, apply full throttle from about 2500 RPM to about 4500 RPM, for no more than 8-10 seconds, allowing the engine to decel under compression between passes.
-Do this 8-10 times.
-Avoid constant RPM operation for 500km, then change the oil.

[Rendon LX-i]

You do it the same as i do

[2oodoor]

nice long decelerating hills to coast down then get it to a good non laboring rpm to get back up the hill then coast down the next....nice break in