my car update picks

[mykwikcoupe]

30 minutes later and i find that my b16 head installed on the b18c block Ive got is from a 2000 civic si. Hopefully this means its something special. I also compared the b16 dizzy to the b18a dizzy and the mounting tabs are way different. The b16 dizzy will not work with the jdm b20a. The igniter, cap, rotor are all the same part numbers. The b16 wires have deeper protrusions into the spark plug cavaty than the b18a wires Im using so they do not seat on the valve cover like they are supposed to.

I get it installed, turn the key and 1/4 of a revolution and its purring again. Lets hope it stays this way this time around. This means if the clutch is good Im off to portland. I think thats my last major debacle to tackle. Ive got the interior to finish installing and a few other bits but this was a major milestone for me today. Exhaust will be taken care of tomorrow and Ill drop it on the ground and see if itll go under its own power. Lets hope so.

[AccordB20A]

So you havent managed to take it up the road for a blat yet, man that must suck

[LX-incredible]

Did you use thermal grease on the ignitor? If no, get some at a electronics store and clean and use some between the distributor housing and the ignitor. The ignitor will prematurely fail without this!!!

Good you figured it out though.

[codyJDM]

I say ditch the dubs and go for something more period correct(15"-16" for optimum slammage )! Car looks great otherwise, keep the updates coming.

[Civic Accord Honda]

i like the big rims on his car seem to fit it nicely

[mykwikcoupe]

oh they fit oh so nicely. I have toi have something larder than 16 becauseof the aem front brakes. When yopu see it itll look 10 times better in person. No driving yet it was too late and Im finishing the extoday then Im totally hitting the street to see how it feels. No seat of the pant I just want to be sure itll make it to portland and back. No I didnt use thermalk grease both original igniters were clean and dry so i didnt think of it,. Ive got to run out and grab a few parts so Ill grab a tube or thermal X arctic silver while Im at it. Thanks for the tip Ill keep on it. id prefer to keep the engine bay clean and not use my msd ignition on the coupe and Ive read the stock ignition is great but with everyone Ive known that has an interior igniter they have all failed at least once. Not what i would call a good system.

[MessyHonda]

cool...i was going to say almost all ignitors are the same...i took mine off and went with a external one...il show you at the meet

[mykwikcoupe]

ok so I got the exhaust to the cat done and fired it up. It wants to idle at 3k rpm? Its tossing codes like no tomorrow. Im going to need to learn to read them a little better but what i have in whatever starting order is 2 long flashes, 3 long flashes, 6 short quick flashes, 3 quick short flashes then it repeats. Any help.

When you give it gas its acting like the tps is bad it doesnt respond and drops in idle and will die if you hold the gas on. Im stoked lets hope its easy junk and fixes quick Iwant to take it for a drive to see if the transmission is ok as well as the clutch.

[mykwikcoupe]

http://www.c-speedracing.com/faq/05.php
this is the site I used and from what its saying
code 2-secondary oxygen sensor ( Id ont have one I need to get it deleted from the ecu chipset)
Code 3- MAP sensor (makes sence thats how its acing right now)
code 63-secondary heated oxygen sensor (I dont have one, Ive only got the one heated sensor behind the oil pan under the intake manifold)
Im wondering if any of these will cause the ecu to not perform correctly or over compensate from what it really should be doing. Thanks for the help again and Ill run back down to my oarents house and grab another TB with map installed on it.

[LX-incredible]

Where are do you have the vacuum for the map connected? I know the wiring is correct. Also, could the ecu be chipped to look for a different map signal?

[mykwikcoupe]

the map sensor is plugged into the small vac fitting on the TB unit itself., the tubing is about 8 inches long and runs to the firewall where the map sensor is tie wrapped

[mykwikcoupe]

Would the map sensor cause the idle to be so high? Why would itttr wantr to idle at 3k rpm?

[LX-incredible]

Not sure... Does the idle drop when the EACV is unplugged?

Vacuum connection for the map sounds correct. I remember reading somewhere that there were a few that were wired different and needed to be repinned... There should be letters above the pins on the map. Should read from left to right V G O. V should match with the yellow wire, G with the green and O with the white. You may need to switch the yellow and white, I think...

[LX-incredible]

Looking at this picture, the yellow and white look like they need to be switched. Not sure if I wired it to another sensor or just plain screwed up...

Easy fix though. Remove the white retainer on the connector by prying up on the sides with an icepick, push the pins in towards the clip while gently pulling the wire out. Install the wires in their correct location, install the white retainer, and if the boots didn't seat properly, gently work them down with a small screwdriver.

Sorry for the inconvenience.

[mykwikcoupe]

Ok ill try that. I forgot about the idle screw on the tb. Ill adjust that to see if it brings down to a more managable speed

[ZackieDarko]

Ok ill try that. I forgot about the idle screw on the tb. Ill adjust that to see if it brings down to a more managable speed

could be it i had this same problem (high idle) i adjusted mine and it went down to 800-1000

[mykwikcoupe]

swapped out the map sensor wires and fixed that CEL. I still have code 2 (2nd oxygen sensor), but now Ive got a few extras. I thought I counted it out as 36 but there is no code 36? I decided it must be 45 instead and thats system too rich or lean? It still idles at 3k plus even with the idle screw all in or out it doesnt matter. If I unplug the IACV it starts stumbling. Id like to say this is going ok but Im guessing Im going to need another chip and fast as hell or something. Any clue. Help

[mykwikcoupe]

to my own amazment, I tried 3 different TB units from different engines all with different results. i finally installed to 70mm unit with no idle circiut and it settles down and start purring. Itll fluctate between 750-900 rp when it idles for long periods. Im still getting code 2 which isnt a big deal. Im still getting 45 and from the plugs it looks too lean but the engine tewmp holds strong at a low temp. Since Im using a folr mustand Tb unit I had to unplug the TPS and Im throwing code 7 for that not being plugged in. Ill stop by the junk yard tomorrow and see about snagging the proper end and getting that on.

I did manage to set it on the ground and the clutch is holding so thats one less worry but there is a noticable niose in the stacks. It wont shift from gear to gear and it really wont skip gears. i guess Im dropping the transmission tomorrow to see whats up there.

[MessyHonda]

ok cool lets hope we can see what your b20 pulls

[LX-incredible]

It idles lower with that tb because it eliminates the IACV. I would look into the IACV being faulty. It will generally run richer with the tps unplugged, so you may be masking the problem... That ford tps doesn't put out the correct voltage range for our ecus. You might possibly be able to alter the program to make it work.

Are you having these transmission problems with the engine running? Might just be a clutch cable adjustment.

[mykwikcoupe]

I stayed up till 5am working on the transmoission and got it torn down and reassembled. When I opened the cases the only thing I noticed was all the aluminum shaving and the top synco on the coutershaft wasnt even seated. It was like I never put it back. I looked forever and couldnt see where all the shaving came from. Short of removing stacks again which is a big no no for me in a hurry in the middle of the night.

I finally went to bed with nothing else to do but oil it up and start it up. Thats whats going to be happening in the next few minutes. I ran it through all the gears with the cases apart and it seems to be better. Reverse grabbed, the clunking of the gear stacks stopped, it seemed to shift easier since it was centered again.

I pulled the flywheel, pressure plat again and inspected and retoqued. Everything was within specs and dint look bad or have issues. I guess thats just how it was supposed to feel.

[2ndGenGuy]

Oh man!!! Hope you got it fixed! Glad to hear you got her all apart in one night, that's hardcore man!

[mykwikcoupe]

oh yeah I had to stop because I couldnt fire it up anyways. It fixed the issue. the top syncr wasnt fully seated on the countershaft and thats was the problem. I thought I had more issues since it wouldnt engage in any gears after that but worked great with the car off. i kept putting tention on the clutch cable and it worked finally. This pressure plate is insane. i wouldnt wish it on anyone. Its like trying to push the rock of gibralter. A quick test run around the street says the car is too low and bouncy as all hell. this has to change. The TPS still needs wiring in. muffler installed.

For those that have seen pics I got the interior all cleaned up. i was going to swap the dash out but id have to move the vin tag and I didnt want to hassle with that plus Im lazy after another 12 hours working on the car with only 2 hours of sleep. She's washed but I need to vacuum it out again tomorrow. the apint is unfortunatly not worth waxing but it shines a little as is. From right now id say ill be at the meet so lets hope all goes well tomorrow with the exhaust and emissions test. Im really curious just how lean its running.

[Civic Accord Honda]

awesome!

[mykwikcoupe]

I was thinking, since my chipped p)^ has an issue with running lean and Ive got an unchipped P75, could I just install the P75 non chipped and run it? would it work? what would happen? Thanks guys.