This is from the Haynes manual. There is no list of tools given but this is a direct quote from that manual. Remember, any repair you undertake is your own responsibility. I post the info as factual according to Haynes and I have used this same manual to change my own timing belt so I know it works. Mistakes are on you...
Anyways, heres what the manual says to do.
1) Disconnect the negative cable from the battery.
2) Block the rear wheels and set the parking brake.
3) Loosen the lug nuts on the left front wheel and raise the front of the vehicle. Support the front of the vehicle securely on jackstands.
4) Remove the left front wheel for easier access to the end of the crankshaft.
5) Support the engine with a floor jack. Place a block of wood between the jack pad and the oil pan to avoid damaging the pan.
6) Remove the left engine mount.
7) Remove the spark plugs and drivebelts.
8) Position the number one piston at Top Dead Center. (Super important. If you don't, you'll be sorry later.)
9) Remove the tensioner seal and the upper timing belt cover. Note the gasket beneath the cover. It does not need to be removed or replaced unless it is damaged. (I think it looks like a rubber band in a groove.)
10) Remove the alternator and bracket.
11) Unbolt the power steering pump without disconnecting the hoses and set it aside.
12) On air conditioned vehicles, detach the wiring and unbolt the air conditioning compressor, again setting it aside without disconnecting the refrigerant hoses.
13) To keep the crankshaft from turning, have an assistant hold a large screwdriver firmly against the ring gear teeth and loosen the pulley to crankshaft bolt with a socket and breaker bar.
14) Remove the water pump pulley.
15) Remove the lower timing belt cover.
16) I f you intend to reuse the timng belt (not suggested by me), paint match mark lines to align the sprockets with the belt ( on the belt and on the sprockets themselves ) and an arrow to indicate the direction of rotation.
17) Loosen the timing belt tensioner bolt, remove the outer belt guide and slip the belt off. Note the way the belt guide is facing for proper reinstallation.
IMPORTANT: DO NOT MOVE EITHER OF THE PULLEYS ONCE THE BELT IS OFF!!!!
Reinstallation
1) Before installing the timing belt, Make sure that the crankshaft sprocket is installed with the dot up. (Remember when we put the engine at Top Dead Center? This is why that was important!)
The crankshaft pulley has one spoke with a hole in it. This hole should be up. On the backside of the crankshaft pulley, there should be 2 index marks. Make sure they are aligned with the top of the top of the cylinder head.
2) Install the timing belt with slight tension between the spockets and on the forward facing side. With the belt tensioner bolt loose, slowly rotate the crankshaft counter clockwise for a distance of three teeth.
3) Tighten the belt tensioner bolt.
4) Carefully turn the crankshaft through 2 revolutions and recheck the timing marks and camshaft sprockt index marks for proper alignment. If the crankshaft binds or seems to hit something, do not force it, as the valves may be hitting the pistons. If this happens, valve timing is incorrect. Remove the belt and go back to step 1 of reinstallation.
5) Put everything back on the car in the reverse order that it was taken off.
6) Run the engine and check for proper operation.
7) Pick up a beer (if you are old enough) and congratulate yourself. You did a good job.
Personal Notes on the subject : If the timing belt is even one tooth off, you car will not operate correctly. What I did to ensure that the timing belt was installed correctly was kind of simple but it makes sense. Get some yellow marking paint and make an index mark on the top pulley and the bottom pulley. On the side of the belt that goes between the top pulley directly to the bottom pulley, count the number of teeth on the belt that are between these paint marks. (Not on the tensioner side.) All timing belts regardless of manufacturer should have the same number of teeth. Anyways I use the first tooth mark as tooth #1 and the last paint mark as the last tooth I count. DO NOT just try to mark the belt when you take it off and match it up with the new one because the old belt has stretched. The number of teeth on the belt trick will not let you down because you are still using the OEM specs from the original installation.
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