How do I replace the tie rods?

[nfs480]

I've watched a few youtube videos, read my haynes manual, and my factory shop manual on this subject and it doesn't look to difficult, but I know that that really doesn't mean it will actually be easy.

What special tools am I gonna need and what do you guys think the odds are of me being able to remove these very rusty tie rods without having my car towed to a shop on a flat bed?

I've searched 3geez for more info on tie rods but the search requires more than three letter words and the threads I could find didn't really provide any type of step-by-step. I'm also planning on replacing the brake pads and rotors on the front end at the same time which is also something i've never done before, any tips on that?

[87roach]

https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=68981

This is when I changed out mine, it wasn't really all that hard... sort of tricky in some spots just because the way the nut's had been put on. Had to bend an open end wrench for the driver's side was the only thing we had to "modify" to make it work.

Good luck.

[nfs480]

I'm just planning on doing the outer tie rods, not the inners, which appear to be what caused most of the difficulty in that video.

[AZmike]

The tie rods are part of the inner tie rod ends. That's why you're getting advice on how to remove them. The part you're referring to is the outer tie rod end.

[nfs480]

Ok, well I just need advice on the outer tie rod ends. Any ideas on how to get badly rusted tie-rod ends to unscrew from the inner tie rods? Also, the bleeder bolt on my driver's side caliper is stuck, any tips for getting that loose without breaking it?

[import racer]

Penetrating fluid and heat.

[Dr_Snooz]

Both jobs are really really easy. Just be sure to get an alignment after you finish or you could burn up your tires in a thousand miles.

Some random schmoe put this how-to together on removing tough bolts. I'm sure it will be helpful.

https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthrea...ht=free+rusted

[ArokASE88LXi]

like Dr. Snooz said these are very simple jobs. as for the rust part simply spray a good penetrating oil (such as wd-40 or Pb blaster i think the Pb blaster works better IMO) on them and let it soak in real well. definetely use a box end wrench on the bleeder valve a six point if you can find one, if not no big deal but you definetely don't wanna strip that out. once you get out the bleeder blow some brake parts cleaner and compressed air through it to make sure it's clear. as for the nut on the tie rod i always use an adjustable wrench (my snap-on 12" has teeth real good for tie rod nuts). again this is not something you want to strip so make sure whatever tool you use it fits the nut nice and tight. once you get the nut loose i usually only back the nut off one turn you'll see why shortly. once the nuts off the bottom and the adjuster nut's loose, smack the knuckle just under the tie rod with a big hammer a few times. most of the time the tie-rod will pop up. now twist off the tie-rod and twist the new one on. now here's the cool part screw the new one on until you hit the nut, now back the tie-rod off one turn and tighten the nut. now the new tie rod should be in the same spot as the old one minimizing the need for an alignment. P.S. if you coat the threads of the inner tie rod with anti-seize befor installing the new outer tie rod your alignment technician will like you a lot more!!

[ArokASE88LXi]

Penetrating fluid and head.

does this mean your recommending giving his car head? ha ha jk however i know my nuts would loosen if ya gave me...wait this is going down a road none of us want to travel nevermind

[nfs480]

Any tips on getting the old cotter pin out? I've never removed one and i'm worried about it snapping off within the castle nut. Also, thanks for the good advice on the bleeder bolt and the tie rod jobs, my mechanic tried to flush my brake system previously and said he couldn't get the driver's side bleeder bolt loose so i'm nervous about trying to loosen it when a professional couldn't, but i'm not sure if he tried anything beyond just trying to loosen it with a wrench. As for the brake rotors, how difficult is it to get the retaining screws out? I'm worried about stripping those out with a screw driver if they're in there too tight.

[nfs480]

Also what do you guys think of some of the advice i've gotten from this thread (particularly rotating the inner tie-rod to break free the outer before removing the outer from the knuckle)?: http://action.publicbroadcasting.net...t/2124133.page

[ArokASE88LXi]

Any tips on getting the old cotter pin out? I've never removed one and i'm worried about it snapping off within the castle nut. Also, thanks for the good advice on the bleeder bolt and the tie rod jobs, my mechanic tried to flush my brake system previously and said he couldn't get the driver's side bleeder bolt loose so i'm nervous about trying to loosen it when a professional couldn't, but i'm not sure if he tried anything beyond just trying to loosen it with a wrench. As for the brake rotors, how difficult is it to get the retaining screws out? I'm worried about stripping those out with a screw driver if they're in there too tight.

Also what do you guys think of some of the advice i've gotten from this thread (particularly rotating the inner tie-rod to break free the outer before removing the outer from the knuckle)?: http://action.publicbroadcasting.net...t/2124133.page

Ok suggestion to break the threads loose BEFORE you pop the joint loose from the spindle is a good one

<--- Excellent Advice

As for the cotter pin it's not a big deal, I use a pair of dykes (or sidecutters whatever you wanna call em) bend it straight and tap it through a little ways then grab the end and use leverage to pry it out (most come right out). if that fails use a 1/2" impact gun (if you don't have one it's a great tool to buy even a cheap walmart one is nice) if the cotter pin won't come out i've just put the socket over the nut and zap it off, the rotation of the nut just breaks the cotter pin and it's pretty easy to get out after that. The Pickle fork mentioned on the other site is a great tool for removing the tie rod from the knuckle ONLY if replacing it (as I know you are so no biggie) borrowing one from autozone on their loaner program is a good way. None of the advice on that site that i see is bad advice it all looks very sound to me. As far as the retainer screws you'll want to borrow another tool from autozone (or buy it it's only about $20 i think) it's called an impact screwdriver it has a screwdriver bit and a cam mechanism inside you smack it with a hammer and it pushes into the screw and turns it at the same time. i have NEVER stripped a screw with it! funny story my friend ryan was working on such a screw for about 20 minutes & came and asked me for help the screw was nearly stripped. i put my impact screw driver on it and with 2-3 taps it was loose!! laughed my ass off lol. anyway with this advice and the advice of the other site i'm sure you'll be just fine just remember penetrating oil is very good soak some in for a day or two and keep spraying it, and Heat/a Torch should ALWAYS be a last resort. Be safe and let us know how it goes!!

[nfs480]

Great, thanks for the advice guys. I'll let you all know how it goes, still waiting on the parts I ordered from Majestic and my next days off are next thursday and friday so i'll probably be doing the job around then.

[ArokASE88LXi]

Sweet man good luck! also it will help if you spray some pb blaster on the thread at the locknut once a day and give it time to get in there and work.

[nfs480]

Sounds like a good idea, i'll start spraying some on it tomorrow.

[nfs480]

Picked up an impact screwdriver today and according to Fedex tracking my parts should arrive on Friday. I can't wait to get started!

[labeledsk8r]

i really thought someone had made a how-to on these about a year ago? musta never got stickied into the how-to section (damn mods falling asleep) but it seems you got all the info on this allready so goodluck

[88Accord-DX]

You can get an impact screwdriver at your local Sears, anyhow count the number of screw threads on the outer tie rod end before you remove it. Several different techniques in doing it, sometimes I use a paint marker. I'd recommend having your front end aligned after outer tie rod replacement so you don't eat up your front tires.

[nfs480]

Yeah, i'm having a tech I know at the Honda dealer align it when i'm done. I've already tried loosening the locknuts on the tie-rods in advance to see if I can get them loose and so far no luck. Just to double-check, i'm supposed to turn the locknuts to the right so that they move away from the tie-rod end correct? Because so far PBBlaster and muscle is not enough to get them to budge.

[88Accord-DX]

Sometimes the threads are opposite on tie rod ends, for adjustment. It's been some time since I change mine. So try turning it the other way. Keep the tie rod end in the knuckle so you can break the nut loose.

[nfs480]

Sometimes the threads are opposite on tie rod ends, for adjustment. It's been some time since I change mine. So try turning it the other way. Keep the tie rod end in the knuckle so you can break the nut loose.

Can anyone double-check for me whose done tie-rods on these cars? I'd rather not end up further tightening the locknuts by accident.

[88Accord-DX]

If you look at the threads on the tie rod end, you can tell which way the the bolt tightens up. It's a little late for me to look & give a details, forgive me.

[ArokASE88LXi]

I'll have to look at mine tomorrow but on just about ever car i've aligned (#'s in the hundreds) if your under the car looking at the locknut from the inside the lefty loosy righty tighty saying applys to both sides so if your looking at the drivers side from under the car it rotates left or counter-clockwise, and it's the same for the passenger side, as your looking at it from under the car you rotate it counter-clockwise. like i said it's virtually the same on every car at least all the ones i can remember.

[nfs480]

I can't really see enough of the threads to make a judgement, but from what I understand of what Arok is saying when i'm facing the brake disc sitting looking at the car it should be turned to the right, correct? Because that would be left from under the car, right?

[nfs480]

I was wondering what kind of safety equipment or masks you guys use to avoid exposure to asbestos particles in the brake dust, I was reading the warnings in the Haynes manual and now it has me worried.