for those that have been keeping up with my posts know that i am going to do some engine work to my car. well now i am ordering parts and really want to bring up my redline preferbly to 8k but atleast to 7 so what should i upgrade and how should i go about this?
get rid of the rev limiter
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69336 my car thread
My 2 cents...
A20's really don't make that much power that high in the RPM's. What little that you can ring out of it in the upper RPM's are not worth the stress and possibility of failure that also occur up there.
88 LX 5spd l 32/36 weber l KYB GR-2's l Refreshed A20A3 engine l
IF you are set on doing this you are going to need to go with better valve springs, probably a different cam. But really you are going to need a lot of P&P work done on the head to make it worth it.
88 LX 5spd l 32/36 weber l KYB GR-2's l Refreshed A20A3 engine l
wat about gettin ready for a turbo other than a turbo cam regrind and redoing the head will i require anything else?
P&P head for best flow beyond 6.8k The power really hits a wall with our ecu's. GO obd1, and apparently the power wants to climb after 6.5k lol.
Cam is a must, 272 for mild street na or turbo. But for just turbo, a 267(i think)/272 is the way to go.
Or just get a bisi cam lol.
oh yea rods are the weak points on our motors, we can use the stock ones past 7k alot. So stronger rods is a must.
Originally Posted by CAH
I had a nice descussion about the same thing. Let me try to find it.
Bass like Base... Not fish.
Bass like Base... Not fish.
my old 3g used to go up to fuel cut alot which was like 7200rpm
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
if your asking on what to chance to do it.. then you probably shouldnt be doing it at all...... but in a short list heres things to conisder
crank
bearings
rods
tuneing (obd1?)
fuel
etc etc etc
OOOO BOI...k here i come...
First off a stock a20 wont cut it.youll need atleast a rebuild a mild sort as in head valve springs. cam and such. if not youll valve float and BAM youll bend a valve thus hitting the piston and your done....so in order to see great performance youll need OBD1 (since i seen messys car) that thing hit 7g like nothing and sounded like i wanted more which it would of EASYLY. well.....EVEN with stock rebuild youll need a head work to get 8g....turbo you wont feel it but when it goes out....then youll feel a rod go thew the block...
I got all stock bottom end. with alittle bore. p&p head. 3 angle valve job. stage 2 delta. and i have a 86 head so bigger valve springs. all comes to play...i would do some research look at other 3geers setups bro...
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
Let me add my two cents. To make decent power above the stock redline, you will need a Port and polish job. Valve springs have been said, and its absolutely true. On the bottom end, the crank needs to be balanced by now (wear has taken its toll, im sure) and the stock rods and rod bearings MUST be replaced. Much over 7k will grenade those. After that, i would just be damn sure that every seal and bearing has been replaced. You cant go runnin around with a stock motor revving over the stock redline, you WILL throw a rod or break shit. NOT smart.
yeah you would have to rebuild the enigine to get it to rev that high...on a stock car its worthless
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
You can safely rev up to 7.5k with the addition of some ARP Rod bolts. Heck we took it up to 8K. Horse power would max out around 7K maybe a little bit higher with higher compression. This is with a very aggressive cam and headwork.
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=57136
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