Dyno results on my 32/36!!!

[bakedboarder34]

Okay, this is the real sheet its a tuning to pass washington state emissions, runs kinda booty ill post up the race tune when i get it but for real its pretty impressive, est. 0-60 9 sec. flat. I say est. because the speedo is off, and the tuning isn't finished. the test pipe will be on the next time, with some more routine maintenance to improve efficiency.
The power read out to:
80Hp
104ft/lbs tq. At the wheels baby!!
With a lightweight flywheel and the integ/hybrid/lsd could really brighten up this car, i mean really that would eliminate as much nasty driveline loss as possible without welding the diff lol. but lets not get drunk with one of those things. I want to get the 272 regrind with this setup because i really wanna open it up a little bit. this setup should be good for the suspension i have right now. (all stock gonna do bushings and motor mounts)

[2ndGenGuy]

Do you have a header? Also, look into a Weber 38. That thing will really open up your car more than a cam. The cam will take away some bottom end grunt. Light flywheel is definitely nice, but may not add any horsepower once the engine gets past the inertia of the 10lbs of whatever extra weight it will reduce. If you REALLY want some juice, pick up a Rowland manifold and some Weber DCOE carbs. Now THAT will get your car going... assuming you can pass emissions with them... And yeah gears make the car way more fun to drive, keep it in the power band more. Won't actually make your car faster or put more power to the ground though.

Where did you get it dyno'd? And where did you find a shop who knows how to tune these carbs? If these guys can get a 32/36 to pass emissions, maybe ask them if they can get some bigger carbs to pass emissions as well. I'm curious to find out.

[Hauntd ca3]

looks good eh
mixtures a bit rich between 2k and 3k but they come right.
nuthing to be terribly ashamed of
let us all know what the final tune comes up like
also, r u running a freed up exhaust(header and 2.25 pipe) or stock exhaust ?

[bakedboarder34]

well i figured the 38 would do the trick, but no i dont want to go to a 38, the smaller one already has a bit of a problem running rich on the stock setup. i want the cam because on the dyno results the 272 gave the most torque while sacrificing less than the heavier racing cams (which i dont want) other than a test pipe the exhaust is stock, but i want it to be like that. im going for a track/street car, besides i do wanna get like actual mpg lol.
And the place is called carbs unlimited, lol they dyno tune and specialize in carbs. i replaced the carb and had them tune it. they owe me a race tune with some dyno time cus they didnt tune it right (the throttle wasnt opening the secondary barrel because of the block under the throttle pedal.) so they made it pass emissions (with the cat on) and there you go. with a 25% loss in hp and less than 8% in torque from the factory specs id say with a little more work this will be pouncing on newer v-tec civics and shit that only got 130hp at the flywheel!!!! Ive been a member since i inherited my lx 1987 back in the day. and have been doing thorough research into how i wanna build my machine, and thanks to great members with 13:1 compression and giant turbos and all sorts of other goodies, because they are going to help make a race car outta this accord. here is the final build recipe as of right now.
Engine:
Rebuild
Port/polish head. (none of that ten angle valve job shit, just a +1 or +2
-prelude head gear
headers, intake manifold.
Fuel rail
Cam 272 (delta does a regrind for $75 same day)
big fuel pump XD
oil filter relocater
high performance oil pump.
steel braided everything lines
transmission:
Integ hybrid (with lsd 1-4th gears integ final drive.
stage one clutch plate.
10lb flywheel.
short shift and new bushings
Suspension:
full coilovers at each end. (dropping it 2-2.25" have seen filthy lookin ones at this height)
Big effin sway bars,

ext.
-Rally ext. lol until the gloss black and tinted windows come
oh and giant bug rally lights XD this car is beast and needs some lighting.

poly bushings

[rjudgey]

I'd get a header, it won't decrease fuel will increase same with all the other mods except for the camshaft. Making the engine mroe power full and extra torque makes it more efficient and if you drive with economy in mind you'll find you'll get more mpg than before.
Also don't waste money on a port and flow job if you gonna degrade the stock honda seats which are 3 angle as standard. You gain the flow on these heads from flowing the chambers and blending in the seats to the throats but all of this will be wasted if you go and cut a great big arse single or cowboy 2 angle cut on the seat adn valve heads. The most restrictive part of a head is the valve and seat so if you don't do this bit right your gonna have a crap flowing head regardless of what else you do to it!

[88LXi68]

considering the engine came with 98hp at the crank that is actually impressive.

[MessyHonda]

def get a header....its going to be nice....but it looks like you got a nice plan for the car

[bakedboarder34]

well yeah the headers are gonna come, but mostly it is about efficiancy, right now im running fully synthetic (and no the shit doesnt leak hardly at all anymore, burns a lil but thats expected at 192k and that water weter stuff really fuckin works, like all my plans have been to even everything out, hell even the cam will increase fuel economy because at high speeds it needs the extra midrange so i dont have to shift into third to go up highway 18 Lol you guys love headers here dont you? my shit is loud enough with the test pipe and the weber, when the cam gets there i dunno if ill need the header lol, cops in my area are super hoe bags, and frankly they know me(through a couple years of incredible stupidity) and thanks messy honda, it is effin impressive how much torque its laying down for a twenty two year old vehicle, it just needs the proper drive line adjustments to really let the engine rev and accellerate, right now its like 9-10 sec o-60 and i was surprised, lol my buddy has a non v-tec sohc ZC motor, and yeah my shit is faster, and it in a lowered ef hatch!!! yeah, thats right, 3G for life.

[2ndGenGuy]

Ha! I don't think there's any way you'll avoid 3rd up highway 18. Well depending on how hard you're pushing up that bastard of a hill. I can barely hit 100 going up it in my Miata, pushing as hard as I can. 80-90 was always tops pushing my Accord really hard... well with the old motor ha!

The thing with the cam is, I don't think it's going to give you any midrange. All it does is shift the torque curve around. See where that peak in your power is around 3200RPM? Well with a cam, all you're going to do is slide that curve up about 500-1000RPM. So you'll probably wind up making peak torque at around 3800-4200RPM. In the mean time, see that spot where the torque is lower right before the hump? Yeah that's going to move up to where the peak torque is now. So at 3200RPM, you'll be making less torque... So, I'm going to say you'll lose some midrange, and bottom end torque, in exchange for some top end horsepower.

I would get a gear ratio / speed calculator, and see what RPMs you're going to be cruising on the highway if it's efficiency you're looking for. A header will bring that whole torque curve up a few foot-lbs across the range, so it might make up for the torque dip that the cam will have at the lower RPMs. If anything, you'll have a harder time with the stock gearing climbing up that hill, because let me tell you, it's designed to keep the RPMS down lower. Might be okay with the Teggy gear swap, but the new 4th gear will just be like your old 3rd gear anwyays.

[bakedboarder34]

well i cant deny someone with patrick stewart as there pic. i was just really satisfied with the 272 dyno results. and the parts only make up a small amount of the ordeal. with stock everything just the carb upgrade was probably 20% increase, the testpipe will probably give me 5% if i hit 85hp and 110ft/lbs ill be happy and the way they have set it up it should be nice, plus it has a full synthetic change and new plugs and wires, filters cleaned, new clutch/cv shafts. but do you know how to solve the oil pressure problem the accords seem to have all stock like? my little light that blinks doesnt tell me much lol.

[2ndGenGuy]

The oil pressure problem? You mean on hard long corners?

[bakedboarder34]

kinda yeah, i just did a full synthetic change on the car, so it turns out it was just low, lol it runs good now, hopefully when it gets the race tune it will breath good again, this detuned de-jetted ish just wont due. hopefully by shoving more fuel into that beast it will hit at least 110ft/lbs, lol, and when it does, hopefully i will trust it to make the first pass run (Renton, WA-Ellensburg,WA), i really think the tuning is going to make a good difference in this beast. lol its nice to see a good little forum discussion.

[Haxxorz]

with stock everything just the carb upgrade was probably 20% increase, the testpipe will probably give me 5%

So Having a Weber with all that comes with it, helps out that much with performance? Like Give me a comparison between not having a weber and with it. I was trying to figure out a way to increase my performance without changing to fuel-injected or swapping engines and whatnot.

[bakedboarder34]

well from what i can tell, way better throttle response, if the car is carbureted then keep it that way. wiring is a long and tedious process, go with a 38/38 weber (just the big brother to the 32/36) but i mean the motor itself isnt going to be the big hitter in this car. im aiming for like 130-140 at the wheels(keep in mind that at 130hp you would be around 145-150ft/lbs tq), because with the whole tranny setup, and suspension this car wont need a dominatrix engine, the short gears and a cam will allow it to flow snap more. if your looking for big numbers, just swap, you will save a ton of money and hasle, and it will probably be more relialbe power.

[Haxxorz]

well from what i can tell, way better throttle response, if the car is carbureted then keep it that way. wiring is a long and tedious process, go with a 38/38 weber (just the big brother to the 32/36) but i mean the motor itself isnt going to be the big hitter in this car. im aiming for like 130-140 at the wheels(keep in mind that at 130hp you would be around 145-150ft/lbs tq), because with the whole tranny setup, and suspension this car wont need a dominatrix engine, the short gears and a cam will allow it to flow snap more. if your looking for big numbers, just swap, you will save a ton of money and hasle, and it will probably be more relialbe power.

I did some poking around and saw that the 38/38 weber was meant for 6-cylinder engines and not really for what i'm using it for. Would it even pass emissions? Also my engine is practically stock with a good exhaust. That being said, is it fairly simple to install the weber yourself or is it better to look for a shop that can install and tune it for you? I'm sure I can figure it out but I don't want my car to be "out of commission" for however long it takes me to work out the kinks. So I was thinking of using the 32/36 or the 34? Something along those lines as stock HP for my car is like 98 and it would increase significantly from that. Pretty much i'm looking at a Daily driver upgrade to performance without hindering mpg or reliability around 300$ or less.

[MessyHonda]

well from what i can tell, way better throttle response, if the car is carbureted then keep it that way. wiring is a long and tedious process, go with a 38/38 weber (just the big brother to the 32/36) but i mean the motor itself isnt going to be the big hitter in this car. im aiming for like 130-140 at the wheels(keep in mind that at 130hp you would be around 145-150ft/lbs tq), because with the whole tranny setup, and suspension this car wont need a dominatrix engine, the short gears and a cam will allow it to flow snap more. if your looking for big numbers, just swap, you will save a ton of money and hasle, and it will probably be more relialbe power.

the integra gears help alot...it was night and day from the old transmition ratios

[bakedboarder34]

well lemme break it down, putting the weber on is the easy part( mostly u just rip all but like three vaccum lines out, then bolt it down, ill post a pic on the site of what it looks like after. it took us like an hour to put it on but you need to take it down to a shop and have them tune it, i pushed seriously 85hp and 99.5ft/bs, your factory rating si 98bhp and 117ft/lbs of tq. this is at the flywheel so i figured with the test pipe and weber i got probably about 10 or 12 hp. i mean not like a giant number but it really improves everything (minus fuel economy, it drops to about 23-27 avg.)

[Haxxorz]

well lemme break it down, putting the weber on is the easy part( mostly u just rip all but like three vaccum lines out, then bolt it down, ill post a pic on the site of what it looks like after. it took us like an hour to put it on but you need to take it down to a shop and have them tune it, i pushed seriously 85hp and 99.5ft/bs, your factory rating si 98bhp and 117ft/lbs of tq. this is at the flywheel so i figured with the test pipe and weber i got probably about 10 or 12 hp. i mean not like a giant number but it really improves everything (minus fuel economy, it drops to about 23-27 avg.)

That's weird... I have heard that the Weber 32/36 would increase the mpg over the stock carb. Can anyone else vouch for that statement? I'm planning to order it either tonight or tomorrow and me and my brother were going to tackle putting it in. With all the stuff on this forum about installing it it shouldn't be a problem at all. Let you know when It comes and how the installation goes. (prolly open a new thread if I need help)

So others that use the Weber 32/36 on a 3rd gen. Can you post your average Mpg?

[2ndGenGuy]

My fuel economy didn't drop with mine. Stayed about the same. Depends on how much you like that growl that it makes, it can really make you put your foot into it more!

[bakedboarder34]

okay lol this is just from exp. lol i have gotten 24mpg in the car. but ive also gotten 19 lol so that tells me i lost about a 3pt in fuel economy, for the last three years i have kept exact fuel economy records on all three of the hondas i have. and to be honest the carbs babies get about 27 in the city and 34 fwy so i bet it will get close 27-28 avg. with the weber. and btw the weber is louder than my test pipe so if sound is what you want fuel economy isnt what y ou will be gettting. and to be fair i have a full race tune on my weber big jets and all so take that into consideration, with the detuned version i bet i would get close to 30 but who gives a fuck you just strapped a high performance carb on there and you want mileage? lol

[Haxxorz]

okay lol this is just from exp. lol i have gotten 24mpg in the car. but ive also gotten 19 lol so that tells me i lost about a 3pt in fuel economy, for the last three years i have kept exact fuel economy records on all three of the hondas i have. and to be honest the carbs babies get about 27 in the city and 34 fwy so i bet it will get close 27-28 avg. with the weber. and btw the weber is louder than my test pipe so if sound is what you want fuel economy isnt what y ou will be gettting. and to be fair i have a full race tune on my weber big jets and all so take that into consideration, with the detuned version i bet i would get close to 30 but who gives a fuck you just strapped a high performance carb on there and you want mileage? lol

Hahahaha! You sir have an excellent point. I've been revving it up to 3.5k-4.5k alot lately and i'm still getting 29-30mpg average. Mostly highway And honestly I want all the juice I can pull out of that sucker. So in all honesty I don't care that much about the Mpg, If it drops a couple here and there but has a nice response Heck, way worth it. Does the weber sound good? I put on a custom exhaust and it sounds pretty nice (not a ricer or fartcan)
So I should just get the full kit from like webercarbs.com? That's what I was looking at, mostly cuz I didn't know all the parts I might need other than the carb itself and hoses, jets etc... Anyways, this is looking like a nice investment overall.

btw thanks bakedboarder for letting me kinda have a side topic in your thread. =D

[bakedboarder34]

Well like i said, ive gotten 19, so tell me im not wrapping it out. ill send another pic tomorrow of the newest dyno result, temp 89F and i pushed at the wheels 85hp and 99ft/lbs, and it picks the fuck up with ur exaust probably more. just go down have them put a 32/36 and race tune on the dyno, they dont need more than two hours to do it so tell them ahead of time, the carbs new are like $400 ish plus probably $200 for labor US. But like i said it pulls like a mother. 9.5 0-60mph. more info tomorrow.

[lostforawhile]

well yeah the headers are gonna come, but mostly it is about efficiancy, right now im running fully synthetic (and no the shit doesnt leak hardly at all anymore, burns a lil but thats expected at 192k and that water weter stuff really fuckin works, like all my plans have been to even everything out, hell even the cam will increase fuel economy because at high speeds it needs the extra midrange so i dont have to shift into third to go up highway 18 Lol you guys love headers here dont you? my shit is loud enough with the test pipe and the weber, when the cam gets there i dunno if ill need the header lol, cops in my area are super hoe bags, and frankly they know me(through a couple years of incredible stupidity) and thanks messy honda, it is effin impressive how much torque its laying down for a twenty two year old vehicle, it just needs the proper drive line adjustments to really let the engine rev and accellerate, right now its like 9-10 sec o-60 and i was surprised, lol my buddy has a non v-tec sohc ZC motor, and yeah my shit is faster, and it in a lowered ef hatch!!! yeah, thats right, 3G for life.

your header doesn't have to make it louder,there are very good high performance mufflers out,that won't kill you on horsepower and will quiet it down. sleepers are always nice.

[bakedboarder34]

lol i concur i plan on having a full exhaust like headers downpipe and muffler (leaving the stock piping cat to muffler.) i want a sleeper. both my cars are going to be like that (2004 Si ep3 hatch) the fact of the matter is i am going for a road car, i wanna do like legit street racing kinda stuff, so corners and all that are a big concern too. i honestly think the car is great just as is the tuning is great. lightened flywheel and a couple other transmission upgrades and it should be pretty bitchin. as of right now i wanna focus on suspension now that the engine is running at peak capacity, i have nothing but comfort and body work ish/suspension.

[lostforawhile]

lol i concur i plan on having a full exhaust like headers downpipe and muffler (leaving the stock piping cat to muffler.) i want a sleeper. both my cars are going to be like that (2004 Si ep3 hatch) the fact of the matter is i am going for a road car, i wanna do like legit street racing kinda stuff, so corners and all that are a big concern too. i honestly think the car is great just as is the tuning is great. lightened flywheel and a couple other transmission upgrades and it should be pretty bitchin. as of right now i wanna focus on suspension now that the engine is running at peak capacity, i have nothing but comfort and body work ish/suspension.

just watch the lightened flywheel, you will lose torque, that rotating mass will want to stay rotating, that helps keep your torque from dropping off quick. a heavier spinning mass will tend to stay in motion eaisier then a light mass. you can rev quicker, but your torque curve will drop off faster. nothing is free.