I still have to paint the other half of the plenum, and the brace, but it's mostly done. I also have to paint the aluminum hose clamp and put stainless bolts in it.
hose clamp
bracket welded on to existing cooler tray, and spacers I had to add for the relays
Last edited by lostforawhile; 04-17-2011 at 06:50 PM.
I went ahead and polished up the hose bracket today,
polished half, vs. unpolished half
this is what that piece was originally made from, I can't remember how in the world i made this, it's been a while
Last edited by lostforawhile; 04-17-2011 at 06:52 PM.
Lost,
I forgot your real name, for some reason. You really ought to build yourself a car from "scratch." You obviously have machining and metal working skills that are quite advanced. Instead of modifying someone else's design, have you ever given any thought to building something unique? Just a thought.
it's all about money and time, I don't have the money when I have the time, or vice versa. I was really wanting to build a replica brass era car, such as the experimental cars that people were trying before the model T, power it with a single cylinder hit or miss engine. Not on anyone elses design, but designed like it would have been in those days, vintage bicycle tires etc. It seems like it would be a lot of fun to drive around town, I know people who have built cars like that, and they have a lot of fun with them.Originally Posted by DBMaster
I need to replace my air outlet hose for the cooler, but you get the idea, I still have some clearance issues with the overflow can, but thats eaisily fixed
Last edited by lostforawhile; 04-17-2011 at 06:53 PM.
nice!!! Keep up the good work Tim!!!
While I'm not a big fan of the stuffs you added to your car, you deserve a lot of respect for the amount of work put into it
x2While I'm not a big fan of the stuffs you added to your car, you deserve a lot of respect for the amount of work put into it
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
What are all the relays for?
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
one is the oil cooler blower, one is for the fog lamps, one is for the driving lamps, and one overrides the driving lamp relay to allow the alarm to turn them on
To go with your new avatar: "I know what you're gonna do today."
yep, Ferb rocks, where they are "from" is only an hour and a half drive from where I grew up. Dan Povenmire said Ferb was named after a guy who had more tools then any other human he knew.
I have it back in, I made an interesting piece out of stainless and aluminum to route the blower line through the hole in the fender, once it's in I will take some pictures, these parts are now installed permanently and don't need to come back out again
I finally got the oil cooler back in, and finished, even though I have to remove it yet again for wiring
Last edited by lostforawhile; 04-17-2011 at 06:55 PM.
The endless void grows smaller yet.
Good job on getting it working, do you not think a passive cooler would of done the equivalent?
there is really no where to put it, also when the oil is hottest is sitting in traffic in 100 degree heat, where there is no airflow to a passive cooler, this is all thermostatically controlled, there is an oil thermostat and a temperature switch for the fan. all those wires will be sorted this weekend, I need the alternator to be mounted before I can finish those harnesses.
Ah, good idea on the thermostat.
I'd like to get a passive cooler but I'm not sure where to run the lines from.
most people run a remote filter base and remote filter, then the lines get plumbed from that, I have seen sandwich adapters that retain the factory filter location, you need an inline thermostat to maintain proper oil temp, it has to stay around 200 degrees to boil off moisture, the thermostat allows oil to the cooler after that temp is exceeded. I'm using a miloden, you don't want a cheap one, it allows oil to always be in the cooler, but the passage between the halves of the thermostat stays open under 200 degrees, this prevents air pockets and pressure drop, when it's open, oil will bypass the cooler, since the path through the thermostat provides less resistance. once the valve closes, oil will start to flow through the cooler. The remote filter is still best though, I'm running an oversize filter, this allows the oil capacity of the engine to be increased without pan modifications, more oil means the oil will last longer and it's not working as hard, plus it stays cooler, I've probably picked up an extra 1 1/2 quarts
Last edited by lostforawhile; 04-10-2011 at 07:09 PM.
I think I'll keep this for a project down the road, I'll keep a close watch on my new gauge to see what my high/low point's are.
you must be running an oil temp gauge, I would like to see what those are too, I had one temporarily mounted for a while, and in the summer here, the oil temp would exceed 200 degrees in traffic. with the modifications to the engine, it's going to be running hotter then stock, so this should help. if you generate horsepower, you also generate heat in the creation of that horsepower, Another thing that will help. is that Ac condenser is no longer in front of the radiator, so more airflow to it
I think I found the Bosch blower online, it looks like one to convert a Volkswagen beetle to forced air, the kits are running around 200 bucks, which makes me happy because I paid 20 new from egay, it's something like 150 CFM from that tiny blower lol, they look like the kit is made from a bilge blower type blower unit, which makes sense because they move a ton of air in a small package.
stupid question, but it's late and I'm tired, the factory sending unit location on the oil filter is measuring pump pressure into the filter, not pressure out of the filter right? I was thinking of adding a second warning light sensor, since I have all the plumbing and the cooler, and remote filter, I was going to add a second sender right where pressure goes back into the engine at the remote filter outlet, if anything clogged the factory pressure location would still show pressure, yet nothing would be reaching the engine, the inlet and outlets of the remote filter, are straight across with pipe thread plugs opposite the inlet and outlet, so it's just a matter of screwing in a sensor. the sensor simply connects to the same wire as the warning light sensor, either one will trigger the light
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks