Underhood progress pictures

[Rendon LX-i]

wow

[lostforawhile]

wow

thanks,not sure if anyone ever noticed but a lot of the aeroquip stuff is vintage 80's, not the actual hose,but the fitting ends. I have the big 80's Nelson-Dunn decal on my battery box too,

[lostforawhile]

in this picture you can see the check valve at the end of the piece where the bowl vents connect, in case the vaccume valve fails to work,this will relieve vaccume on the bowls and allow the engine to keep running. the factory keihin has a check valve built into the bowl vent valve for the same reason. also it's a good picture of the air cleaners.

[Rendon LX-i]

Thats just awesome man....that takes massive time and heart to do some shit like that ...i give you props man

[lostforawhile]

Thats just awesome man....that takes massive time and heart to do some shit like that ...i give you props man

now i just need to finish it lol, wait until i have to take it all out to paint the firewall, in case anyone wonders, those are plate nuts holding on the cowl cover, I got sick of the push in plastic clips holding it on. this lets me hold it on with machine screws.

[lostforawhile]

OK it's all crammed in there, both solonoids,wiring ,plumbing, washer fluid filler, lines to the washer tank,lines from the washer tank, oil pressure lines, oil pressure block, warning switch,lines to the gauge, power antenna, vaccume control lines to the canister, control line to the vent valve, all carefully anchored in place and zip tied up solid.

fittings on the firewall going to the purge valve on the canister and to connect to manifold vaccume.

[ecogabriel]

looks like the ecu in the carb cars just reads the speed sensor after a vaccume switch closes, and it uses it as an input, no way to make that work, have to see if the thermo switches screwed into the block are open when cold, if they are i can use one of them to turn on the vaccume solonoid after the coolant reaches a certain temp, my other option is the timed dizzy advance port on the base of one of these carbs, I think our dizzy is calibrated to run advance with manifold vaccume, so that would be a good source of vaccume to open the purge on the canister. would only open when the advance would normally kick in.

In my 86 (EFI) the thermo switch controls purging of gases. It has two hose connections at an angle; it is closed when engine is cold and opens at a certain temperature; check the service manual for more precise info.

[lostforawhile]

In my 86 (EFI) the thermo switch controls purging of gases. It has two hose connections at an angle; it is closed when engine is cold and opens at a certain temperature; check the service manual for more precise info.

I have a really good book with every emmisions diagram from the 70's on up, i'm not using the exact setup that was factory, i'm using a solonoid and a thermal switch to open the valve and allow manifold vaccume to puge the canister like it was factory. this allows me to get rid of al those vaccume thermovalves all over the engine.

[lostforawhile]

every other honda from the eighties uses a purge control solonoid like what i installed, prelude,civic and crx, we get the vaccume controlled stupid setup. they all use a solonoid controlled from the computer, computer knows when the car is warmed up. I know on the back of my block there is a thermo switch with two terminals, it's not even listed on any emissions diagram i've ever seen, well i have other crap not on any diagram eithier, like the junk under the fender, not even on the underhood diagram. i'll pull that sensor and test it in hot water to see if it's a thermistor or a thermoswitch. i know it's to tell the car it's warmed up. if it doesn't work i can pull some sort of thermo switch from another honda and screw it in there. This will let me get rid of all those vaccume thermo switches, mainly the two that go on the intake, and the one on the thermostat housing, i'm not even going to hook up the dizzy retard function, it makes it eaisier to start the car in cold weather, but it's really not needed. instead of those sensors in my manifold water jacket, it will have pipe thread plugs.

[ecogabriel]

every other honda from the eighties uses a purge control solonoid like what i installed, prelude,civic and crx, we get the vaccume controlled stupid setup. they all use a solonoid controlled from the computer, computer knows when the car is warmed up. I know on the back of my block there is a thermo switch with two terminals, it's not even listed on any emissions diagram i've ever seen, well i have other crap not on any diagram eithier, like the junk under the fender, not even on the underhood diagram. i'll pull that sensor and test it in hot water to see if it's a thermistor or a thermoswitch. i know it's to tell the car it's warmed up. if it doesn't work i can pull some sort of thermo switch from another honda and screw it in there. This will let me get rid of all those vaccume thermo switches, mainly the two that go on the intake, and the one on the thermostat housing, i'm not even going to hook up the dizzy retard function, it makes it eaisier to start the car in cold weather, but it's really not needed. instead of those sensors in my manifold water jacket, it will have pipe thread plugs.

'88 and '89 EFI Accords have a solenoid to control purge; I saw it in the '89 service manual.
As for the thermoswitch in the back of the engine it may be for fan control; I was hunting for one of those to make the fans work when the engine is off and hot (the one on the thermostat housing) and I saw a few of them listed as being located in the engine, or in the water pump housing. Actually, I bought both the one in the radiator lower tank and the one on the top of the thermo housing (they were on closeout and got them REALLY cheap) and they are the same EXCEPT for the temperature at which they operate.