while driving my accord
on the interstate
i reach speeds of 80mph
when i braked
the car shook violently
not sure whats wrong
any ideas?
while driving my accord
on the interstate
i reach speeds of 80mph
when i braked
the car shook violently
not sure whats wrong
any ideas?
and also i alrdy considered the rotors being warped
already replaced them
still continued to shake
maybe new brake pads
but the pads that are on it now are pretty new
Its worn parts in the front end. tie rods, ball joints, upper control arms all need to be checked out.
Do a search for "Standard front end check" under my name I did a write up I dont have it on this computer. it doesnt cost you anything but time jacking up one side of the car.
wp
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
thanks;
by the time this is all over with
ill end up replacing everything in the front end
lol
i dont mind
i just need more money (:
check summit racing for parts they carry moog and you'll be suprised at how cheap they sell this stuff. try to stick with OEM , moog, or nappa brand .try to stay away from autozoned or unadvanced's parts, not worth the money and usually junk.
yea already had to put new cv axels in the car
due to the fact they were clicking like a bitch
then brake rotors when i come across the car shaking while braking
just got 4 new tires yesterday
lol
LOL, your post looks like some kind of haiku.Originally Posted by ps2man21
"Fallen sick on a journey,
In dreams I run wildly
Over a withered moor."
(http://www.toyomasu.com/haiku/)
You must be an English major. I am too. Welcome!
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
alignment? i wouldn't put new tires on until you rebuild the suspension and fix the alignment, the upper control arms will cause wierd camber problems if they are worn out.
well what do you all suggest i do to fix this problem
what should i look at replacing first
and as far a alignment goes
i read somewhere that alignment doesnt cause the car to shake
just to pull in one direction and wear on the tires
the car does pull just a tiny bit left just a tiny bit but nothin i was concerned with right away
if your toe is screwy or your alignment is messed up,sure the car is going to shake, if it's toed in the car is skipping down the road on the edges of the tire. same with toed out but on a different part of the tire.
The rotors or drums are probly warped, just take it into a shop and ask them to resurface them.
if its shaking in the front its not the rear drums....thats like a rare deal with it comes to drums
jack up the front...move well side to side an up and down. if you see any play then you have to replace the joints or tie rods ends either one.....R cars are 23years old or so they going to need some TLC......
Other thing since you replace your rotors and your having the same problem you might have sticky calipers....so it over heats then when you brake there for not releasing when you hard brake....thus wraping em again. common deal.
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
Yay English Majors!!! What do you do for a living?
Back to the topic at hand, I have had new rotors come warped out of the box. That was an experience I never want to repeat. Nothing like having a simple job go straight to hell. Also check all of the bushings, and every ball joint in the front suspension. Check for movement in the steering rack. Finally look for damage to the major components.
Last edited by mephi; 08-02-2009 at 11:07 PM.
And you will know me by the cloud of smoke.
Mostly I build spreadsheets oddly enough. ?? The stores like to say they sell rotors that don't need to be turned prior to install but they've obviously never tried them out.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Hah my girlfriend is an English Major. She works for a heavy vehicle registration office.
I make it a rule to open the box at the parts counter and inspect the part before I leave the store with it. I've sent back 3 master cylinders for my car, 1 for my Chev truck and one clutch cylinder for my Toy truck because of stripped threads, right in the store. Maybe for brake rotors I should bring a small lathe and dial indicator? Or a surface plate and feeler gauges?
ICHIBAN!
"Now, even more better!"
Right now I deliver pizza, but will hopefully be working for the Navy as a mechanic in about a month. Not exactly what I expected when I thought to myself, "I think I'm going to major in English."
About the warped rotors, it is apparently a more common problem than I had thought when I first installed them. Several long time mechanics I have worked with, or who taught me have had similar problems. It is still fairly rare though.
Last edited by mephi; 08-03-2009 at 10:59 AM.
And you will know me by the cloud of smoke.
my left front side has insane negative camber... i was thinking it was the upper ball joint goin out... what would be the problem? please help.. i have to replace the dam tire like every 500 miles
-Tom
1988 4 Door Lx-i 5-speed
364,XXX and counting :]
Ball joint(s), bearing failure(you'd probably notice the noise with this one though), bushings on either the upper or lower control arm, or accident damage, bending the arms or body.
And you will know me by the cloud of smoke.
hopefully goin this weekend to get some new calipers and take the rotors i just bought back to get them replaced since there still much under warranty
You could always just have them turned. They might do it for free...the store I went to did.
And you will know me by the cloud of smoke.
+1 on the ball joints upper/lower
check the boots on them. cracked or torn = replace
might not be easy to move around, try using a long bar pried against something to move them. but if the boots are done the joint probly is too
"Weight is relative to power like time is relative to speed"
na the bearings dont make noise at all.. and the boots are gone on the upper one.. i can see the joint.. i was thinking on just getting the whole upper arm from the pick-a-part.. worth it?
is it easy to remove the lower ball joint? i heard its hell
-Tom
1988 4 Door Lx-i 5-speed
364,XXX and counting :]
today i decided to hop in the accord and take it down the road to see in what situations it started to shake when i applied brake;
well
for the first couple of miles i didnt have any problems at all
it wasnt until i hit a long road with no stop light that i had a problem
i would reach a speed of about 55 to 65 and apply the brake
and wouldnt you know
shakin like a bitch
i also noticed when i applied the brake without holding the steering wheel
it would sort of jerk to the left
any suggestions
Sticking caliper and warped rotors? Replace the calipers and have the rotors turned. Also some possibility of tire being out of balance.
And you will know me by the cloud of smoke.
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