This freakin' crank pulley

[LXiHatch88]

Alright, I've got the engine out of my wrecked '89 LXi sitting on the ground. Before dropping it into the '88 Hatch, I want to replace all the hard to get to stuff while it's out in the open and easy, like water pump, alternator, hoses, timing belt, stuff like that.

I am trying to get the crank pulley off so I can put a new timing belt on. I have a 550 ft. lb. Craftsman air impact, and the bolt is not budging. It spun the nuts off the CV axles in like 2 seconds, but I stood there for like 30 seconds with the thing going full blast on the crank pulley bolt and it didn't even move the tiniest amount.. I'm at a loss here. Is this thing reverse threaded or something?

[Civic Accord Honda]

i think you need eleven hundred thousand foot pounds to break that sob loose !

[Hauntd ca3]

since honda motors are so differant and spin the wrong way in conventional engine speak, the crank bolt is a left hand thread, so put your air gun on tighten and try that

[Dr_Snooz]

Who put the bolt on last? If a shop did, then you're probably SOL. There's no telling who put it on or with what or what they broke that they had to put it on that way. You could end up having to make expensive repairs to the crankshaft, but let's not go to that place just yet.


If you put it on last and you put it on correctly, then start looking for why it's become stuck. If you have the engine resting on the pulley, then the bolt might be wedged in there making it harder to get out. If not that, then is the bolt rusted; were the threads deformed when you last put it in; did you put it in with red Loctite, etc.

Honestly though, the torque on that gun should be more than enough to get that bolt off. I have a 600 ft-lb gun from Harbor Freight that is my last resort for tough bolts and it's never failed me. If yours isn't doing it, then I'd start looking for reasons why. Make sure the settings are right. If it hasn't been oiled in a while, do that. I have seen guns suddenly become able to remove tough bolts after just a few drops of oil.

[LXiHatch88]

I don't know who put it on last. I bought the car for $150 total wrecked with a salvage title several years ago with the intention of fixing it, but it turns out it's just bent too bad to fix economically. It's been sitting around since then and started every few months. I just bought this '88 LXi Hatch a few months ago with a bad motor and trans, and want to swap the excellent running engine out of the '89 into it. So is this bolt reverse threaded from normal or not?

[Ichiban]

No, it is a right hand thread. It comes out counterclockwise.

[ecogabriel]

I particularly think that the bolt was over-tightened. It is nearly impossible for the inside threads to rust unless some bad crap was already in the hole before tightening the bolt. But (some) mechanics have little "macho" brains and think that the harder they tighten a bolt the better.

The bolt should be regular threaded; I took mine out of the LX-i when doing the timing belt and the seals. I did the same thing with the civic.
I hydro-locked the #1 cylinder to prevent the engine from turning; remove spark plug, put some oil in the cylinder, re-install the spark plug and then make the engine turn to "compress" the oil. (the bitch thing is then getting rid of the oil in the cylinder afterwards though)

If you do not have it already, use a hexagonal shaped socket. That will prevent it from losing its shape. If this does not work and you have access to a torch you may try heating up the bastard (and only the bolt). You'll need a new bolt afterwards, but it should loosen that way especially if you can get it red-hot.

Finally, short of blowing it up you may try drilling it. Easier said that done though; if you have a STEADY hand, a variable-speed drill, and a few bits you may try drilling a hole in the bolt. A small hole (4-5 mm in dia.) that goes the whole length will allow you to inject whatever lubricant you want in the REAR of the bolt where the threads are.
Again, you need a steady hand and quite a bit of patience. First, the bolt is quite long. Second, drilling too fast will ruin the bit and unless you know how to re-sharpen it and have the means for it you'll be spending quite an amount on bits.
Go slowly when drilling and cool down the bit every half minute or so; cutting oil would be better, but I used kerosene and that would work as well.

I tried the hole trick on my wife's car (toyota..) after a mechanic asked $400 to get it removed (I told him that I would set the car on fire instead and invite him to watch it).
I could not go all the way because I run out of bits and have no idea on its length (a spare bolt would be useful to see how deep it is going. I was about an inch before the end of the bolt but I run out of bits and had no way of re-sharpening them.
I got so frustrated that I started drilling the f.. bastard out with a bigger bit. I did not finish though; 40-40 mm into the task I took the bit out to cool it down and. Tool the bolt's head and tried to take it out; instead the bolt just loosened. It turned out that the bolt had become so thin (by being hollowed out from the inside out) that the bolt probably stretched and let me remove it by hand. I still have the bolt somewhere as a demonstration of "toyota quality"; a destroyed head even after using the most care I could

I dont' recommend the upset way though. I might have screwed up big time.

[Ichiban]

I've had good luck removing stuck bolts by cranking up my little MIG and laying a couple of passes of weld on the top of the bolt. The heat from the weld causes the metal in the bolt to expand, then to become slightly "plastic", which relieves internal stresses, allows the bolt to relax and shrink slightly, and then cooling causes it to shrink further. I've tried to heat bolts with a torch before, and I find the welding usually works better. Although, I usually resort to welding after the original cap of the bolt has broken off, which puts the heat closer to the threads, it may still work for you.

Edit: As mentioned above, I've also drilled out a bolt from the inside, then filled it with weld. The weld goes on liquid, solidifies, then shrinks substantially, shrinking the bolt and allowing removal. Also, see if you can get, or sharpen a left hand drill, one that drills counterclockwise. If the bolt loosens while drilling, the torque of the drill will suddenly just spit it out.

[ecogabriel]

I've had good luck removing stuck bolts by cranking up my little MIG and laying a couple of passes of weld on the top of the bolt. The heat from the weld causes the metal in the bolt to expand, then to become slightly "plastic", which relieves internal stresses, allows the bolt to relax and shrink slightly, and then cooling causes it to shrink further. I've tried to heat bolts with a torch before, and I find the welding usually works better. Although, I usually resort to welding after the original cap of the bolt has broken off, which puts the heat closer to the threads, it may still work for you.

Edit: As mentioned above, I've also drilled out a bolt from the inside, then filled it with weld. The weld goes on liquid, solidifies, then shrinks substantially, shrinking the bolt and allowing removal. Also, see if you can get, or sharpen a left hand drill, one that drills counterclockwise. If the bolt loosens while drilling, the torque of the drill will suddenly just spit it out.

it seems to me that heat would be the best way to get it out. Extreme heat would make it release the stress by stretching a little. I drilled mine because I have no torch and had learned how to do it.

[Ichiban]

If you've got a bench grinder you can resharpen your bit easily enough too.

[LX-incredible]

What size and length air line are you using? You may find it best to go to a 3/8" air line and keep it as short as possible. Having a remote tank is a must if you're quite a ways from the compressor.

[Dr_Snooz]

I particularly think that the bolt was over-tightened. It is nearly impossible for the inside threads to rust unless some bad crap was already in the hole before tightening the bolt. But (some) mechanics have little "macho" brains and think that the harder they tighten a bolt the better.

The bolt should be regular threaded; I took mine out of the LX-i when doing the timing belt and the seals. I did the same thing with the civic.
I hydro-locked the #1 cylinder to prevent the engine from turning; remove spark plug, put some oil in the cylinder, re-install the spark plug and then make the engine turn to "compress" the oil. (the bitch thing is then getting rid of the oil in the cylinder afterwards though)

If you do not have it already, use a hexagonal shaped socket. That will prevent it from losing its shape. If this does not work and you have access to a torch you may try heating up the bastard (and only the bolt). You'll need a new bolt afterwards, but it should loosen that way especially if you can get it red-hot.

Finally, short of blowing it up you may try drilling it. Easier said that done though; if you have a STEADY hand, a variable-speed drill, and a few bits you may try drilling a hole in the bolt. A small hole (4-5 mm in dia.) that goes the whole length will allow you to inject whatever lubricant you want in the REAR of the bolt where the threads are.
Again, you need a steady hand and quite a bit of patience. First, the bolt is quite long. Second, drilling too fast will ruin the bit and unless you know how to re-sharpen it and have the means for it you'll be spending quite an amount on bits.
Go slowly when drilling and cool down the bit every half minute or so; cutting oil would be better, but I used kerosene and that would work as well.

I tried the hole trick on my wife's car (toyota..) after a mechanic asked $400 to get it removed (I told him that I would set the car on fire instead and invite him to watch it).
I could not go all the way because I run out of bits and have no idea on its length (a spare bolt would be useful to see how deep it is going. I was about an inch before the end of the bolt but I run out of bits and had no way of re-sharpening them.
I got so frustrated that I started drilling the f.. bastard out with a bigger bit. I did not finish though; 40-40 mm into the task I took the bit out to cool it down and. Tool the bolt's head and tried to take it out; instead the bolt just loosened. It turned out that the bolt had become so thin (by being hollowed out from the inside out) that the bolt probably stretched and let me remove it by hand. I still have the bolt somewhere as a demonstration of "toyota quality"; a destroyed head even after using the most care I could

I dont' recommend the upset way though. I might have screwed up big time.

I've had good luck removing stuck bolts by cranking up my little MIG and laying a couple of passes of weld on the top of the bolt. The heat from the weld causes the metal in the bolt to expand, then to become slightly "plastic", which relieves internal stresses, allows the bolt to relax and shrink slightly, and then cooling causes it to shrink further. I've tried to heat bolts with a torch before, and I find the welding usually works better. Although, I usually resort to welding after the original cap of the bolt has broken off, which puts the heat closer to the threads, it may still work for you.

Edit: As mentioned above, I've also drilled out a bolt from the inside, then filled it with weld. The weld goes on liquid, solidifies, then shrinks substantially, shrinking the bolt and allowing removal. Also, see if you can get, or sharpen a left hand drill, one that drills counterclockwise. If the bolt loosens while drilling, the torque of the drill will suddenly just spit it out.

Um...wow.

[SILENT]

also i compressor might not give you the air the gun needs and not giving all 550ft lbs of torque!!! what kind of compressor do you have???

[Rendon LX-i]

you really have trouble...took me 3 secounds lol...but it all depends who did it last. if a shop did it they like to hammer shit on like bam bam. You also go to remember that its clockwise to take if off. Another tip. oil your gun and if your a right hand grab the socket and twist it clockwise also...while pulling the trigger. gives more tq.

[LXiHatch88]

Dropped the engine in the back of my truck and took it to a local shop. They had a 3/4 drive impact with like 750 ft. lbs. in reverse, hit it with that a couple of times, it came right out. Tossed the guy 2 bucks and was on my way. It is counter clockwise to remove it. It will most definitely be torqued properly with some anti seize this time around.

[russiankid]

Its counter clockwise to remove it... I don't get where you guys are getting clockwise from. Also, no need for anti-seize. Just get it as tight as you can with a breaker bar(manual calls for 132ftlbs IIRC).

[ecogabriel]

Dropped the engine in the back of my truck and took it to a local shop. They had a 3/4 drive impact with like 750 ft. lbs. in reverse, hit it with that a couple of times, it came right out. Tossed the guy 2 bucks and was on my way. It is counter clockwise to remove it. It will most definitely be torqued properly with some anti seize this time around.

I'm glad you solve the problem.
I would not re-use that bolt ; it has been so much over-torqued that it might be already weakened.

[Ichiban]

It's fucking right hand thread. I took one out last week.

[Dr_Snooz]

Its counter clockwise to remove it... I don't get where you guys are getting clockwise from. Also, no need for anti-seize. Just get it as tight as you can with a breaker bar(manual calls for 132ftlbs IIRC).

I think you mean 108 ft-lbs.

[Strugglebucket]

Dropped the engine in the back of my truck and took it to a local shop. They had a 3/4 drive impact with like 750 ft. lbs. in reverse, hit it with that a couple of times, it came right out. Tossed the guy 2 bucks and was on my way. It is counter clockwise to remove it. It will most definitely be torqued properly with some anti seize this time around.

Don't use anti-seize! I tried that once and had the crank pulley fall off while driving. I had torqued it to spec, too.

Just clean the threads off and leave it dry.

[Ichiban]

You can use a weak grade of Loctite instead. It will keep the bolt from falling out, and actually helps future removal by sealing out moisture.

[nfs480]

I believe the service manual states that you are supposed to coat the threads in motor oil and torque it to 108 ft-lbs