Im pissed !

[ekoms]

well I finally got my 82 back on the ground after putting in new control arms, cv shafts, clutch & PS rack. Im happy as can be, the passenger side clicking is gone & I have power steering back. so I go for a test drive & now the drivers side outer joint is clicking @ mid turn & the power rack makes this awful buzzing vibration noise at random. I only have one more day to work on her before I go back to work. If I cant figure out these issues Im shit out of luck, cause I had to ask for time off to get this all done. WTF man , its so very frustrating
any1 have any insight ?

[Dr_Snooz]

Drive on bro!!! She'll wait patiently while you hit her on weekends. No sense skipping work when she can get you there.

I'm almost afraid to ask where you got those parts from, though. If it was one of those Kragen/Autozone/Pep Boys places then you'll most likely get to pull it all out and exercise your "lifetime" warranty. It sounds really impressive when you're watching the commercials, but it's a lot less impressive when you've done all that work.

Good luck and keep us posted.

[Civic Accord Honda]

word u should be safe to drive on it... my civic has had a bad axle without a boot or gresse since November last year and about 21K miles later it still hasent broke yet

[ekoms]

ya Im going to check the PS rack tomorrow. I can stand the clicking as I have for the last 9000 miles, but that buzzing is just awful. I cant stand it. you can feel it very bad through the steering wheel & the whole dash vibrates too. is the anyway to Realign the motor ? I have read some cars have this option. oh yeah Im not as pissed anymore, this brews for me

[85SE-i]

You used Honda power steering fluid, correct?

[ekoms]

You used Honda power steering fluid, correct?

I used what I had. cant remember what kind, but it said honda safe. is that bad ? thought they were all pretty much the same.

UPDATE---
the power steering has stopped making that buzzing sound & I think Im going to put my old driver side CV back in as it didnt click. but the outer boot has been torn for about 2500 miles so it needs new boots/grease.
also my motor HAS shifted to the passenger side almost half an inch, but I could bolt all the motor mounts back up fine. Im afraid its going to pull the drivers side inner CV joint apart how does one realign the motor ?

thanks.

[ekoms]

I got the old CV cleaned by soaking it in gas for about an hour (works really fast) & flushed/rinsed it with brake cleaner. its now air drying. I also got an new outer boot kit with CV grease to put on. my inner boot is still good, so I'll just repack it. hopefully it wont start clicking from cleaning it. Im still worried that since my motor shifted from the clutch install its going to pull the inner joint apart. I can use a ratchet strap & pull the motor back towards the drivers side with the side motor mount loose, but once I release the strap it just shifts back towards the passenger side. the torque arm @ the top of the motor looks crooked too.
any1 willing to take a pic of their tranny crossmember bushing so I can compare how much it moved.

thanks.

[2ndGenGuy]

How's that mount on the left side framerail looking? That's the only thing keeping the whole engine from moving left to right...betcha that rubber is worn out and doing the clutch job put hte final stresses on that rubber and broke it to bits...

[ekoms]

that would be the firewall side/back mount right ? if so I replaced it when I got the car 9000 miles ago. its still good. the front/rad mount is still good too, no tears in it. & my fears came true. took it for a test drive after rebuilding & reinstalling the old DS CV shaft & it pull it out of the inner joint on the first turn should I loosen all the mounts pull the motor to the DS some & retorque everything ?

[2ndGenGuy]

No, not the firewall mount. The one that's technically on the "front" of the engine. The one that the timing belt loops around. It's the only mount bolted to the framerail on the left side of the car...

[ekoms]

asfar as I know its still good. I did redo the timing belt @ the same time as the other stuff, so it got disconnected to. It might have shifted @ that point & i missed it. i dont know.

[ekoms]

I might just leave the ratchet strap on for now so it wont pull the shaft part anymore. also I swapped the knuckles, rotors, calipers & axles from the 84 onto my 82 a while back cause the 84 had bigger rotors/calipers. could the axle be a little shorter or are they the same ? they look the same.

[2ndGenGuy]

Definitely a cv shaft length difference. The 84 had slightly longer axles to accomodate the wider track width from the update in 84... Sounds like you might have been compressing the axles a bit. It is interesting to know that the 82 and 84 have the same tranny spline

[ekoms]

well after some more comparing of the 82 & 84 axles, their all the same except for the 84 drivers side joint cup is a little longer but the outers, passenger inner & shafts are the same. the knuckle splines are the same too. anyways back to getting my motor straight. what am I doing wrong ? are any of the motor mounts adjustable ? the left side (front of motor) mount is only adjustable by like 1/8-1/4 an inch.

[ekoms]

well I guess the motor hasn't really shifted, its like the front of the motor (left mount) is sagging. how stiff/flexible is it ? if I jack up the motor from below as far left as possible, it'll raise up some & get straighter. I got it alot better (at least to where it wont pull the inner joint apart), but I had to bolt the mount to the underside of the engine bracket, not on top like it is designed to be.

[2ndGenGuy]

Man you should post some pics of your odd engine alignment problems. Are you sure the mounts on the front and rear framerails aren't broken? You should take them out and look, because you won't be able to tell with the weight of the engine on them, they'll just be all saggy and weird.

[ekoms]

I just got home from my 1st job & its dark out now so when I get home from my 2nd job in the morning I'll get some pics taken of how I have it set up now. the rear/firewall mount is new & the front/rad mount looks like its got a little sag, same goes for the left/fender mount. so far its working out great, been driving it all day. from resetting the timing & getting it set correctly it hardly backfires anymore & still got all the power. no more clicking axles, no more leaking tranny. the clutch is very responsive, & the new PS rack/tie rods/control arms tighten up the steering so much better. its a big difference driving her now with all the new parts, even more of a blast to drive. my dad had a 2gee years ago & was to scared to work on it, but really their no difference from any other car Ive had. Honda Techies are expensive. I'm glad Ive done all the work, it's very gratifying with your guys help I will get this mount thing figured out.

[2ndGenGuy]

Hell yeah dude! We'll do our best to help out! I enjoy working on them too.

[85SE-i]

I used what I had. cant remember what kind, but it said honda safe. is that bad ? thought they were all pretty much the same.

No they are really not all the same. Most power steering fluids are either ATF or petroleum based. Honda's power steering fluid (aka PSF-V) uses a mineral oil type base and has the proper additives and viscosity for Honda power steering systems and will maximize the life of your pump, rack and seals. With all of the time and money you have spent, now is not the time to compromise. Besides, Honda PSF is only like $3 a bottle so well worth the cost. Like I always say, "Imitation may be the greatest form of flattery, but it has no place in your Honda".

Honda Techies are expensive.

Yes, we are. But.... Lucky for you, I am on here for free, so use me whenever you can because if you come and see me at work it will cost you $105 per hour.

[2ndGenGuy]

No they are really not all the same. Most power steering fluids are either ATF or petroleum based. Honda's power steering fluid (aka PSF-V) uses a mineral oil type base and has the proper additives and viscosity for Honda power steering systems and will maximize the life of your pump, rack and seals. With all of the time and money you have spent, now is not the time to compromise. Besides, Honda PSF is only like $3 a bottle so well worth the cost. Like I always say, "Imitation may be the greatest form of flattery, but it has no place in your Honda".

That's probably why my rack, pump, and lines all lasted 25 years and 310,000 miles. Only Honda Genuine fluid baby!

[85SE-i]

That's probably why my rack, pump, and lines all lasted 25 years and 310,000 miles. Only Honda Genuine fluid baby!

Hells yeah!!! That's what I'm talking about right there!!!

[ekoms]

update,
Ive been a busy bee lately & haven't really touched my computer. I still got the mounts rigged up & sofar so good. I suspect I just need to replace the other two mounts & that will probably help out alot. But Im glad to say She's still running strong & nothing major has come up. Im starting my project car here soon too. I'm going to resurrect my 84 3dr parts car that I gutted the suspension from & get her back on the road. I sold my eagle talon so I'll be getting about $800 worth of new parts, & try to find an A20 motor close by to drop in if I cant find a good A20 motor, Im for sure going weber. the ES2 needs a new head gasket & a good carb to come back from its 6 year slumber.

also what other motors will drop right in besides the A20 ?

thanks.

[2ndGenGuy]

Hell yeah dude. You do mean sidedraft Webers right? There are only 3 engines in the US that will bolt into that car. The ES1, the A18 and the A20. The A20 is really the best one you can get here. And it's the one that you can currently buy production Weber DCOE manifolds for.

If you wanna get creative (I still wanna try this one day), bore your ES2 out to 82.7mm, that will make it a 2 liter, and you can use A20 pistons. Then go on up to Canada, and pick up an EZ or ET1 cylinder head, and bolt it onto you block. This will get rid of the CVCC stuff, and might give a slight compression bump. Hell, just going up to 2 liters will bump compression a bit. I bet it would build a pretty good motor. Maybe still not an A20 killer, as the intake ports on the A20 are still pretty large in comparison, being oval and all... but would be neat.

[Civic Accord Honda]

post some pics of the project car mayne!!! and an a20a should be easy as hell to find... if you were by me id sell you a block for cheap lol

[ekoms]

heres the pics of the mounts





I know I know it looks bad