design me a box? help

[mykwikcoupe]

In my hatch Im looking biuld a box. Im an excellent fabricator and good with math. However the forulas have me a bit baffled (hahah). I have 2 jl audio 12w6v1 not the new v2. And Ive also got 3 jl audio 8w6v1. these are all new in box. Ive had them stored forever. For an amp Ive got a phoenix gold xs2500 and a xs4600. Ive run these amps before on my old setup in which i tried to run the 2 12w6 in 1.5ohm load each using its own channel and in a series parrel at 3 ohms.

Id like to see about biulding one of those cool looking vented boxes like the jjl wedge design with the long baffle. If someone has the knowhow to design me a box I can surely biuld it. Id like to sound good/perfor better and swapple in size to both the hatch, coupe, sedans i have. Thanks for the help or any advice is great. i have a ton of older audio stuff Id like to start using one of these days

[89T]

L*W*D/1728=cubic feet

on a wedge

L*W*(D1+D2/2)/1728=cubic feet

OR
FREE CALCULATORS
http://www.carstereo.com/help/Articles.cfm

[Hash_man_Se_i]

If you want to know proper air space for the subs, and have all the specs on them... download and use this program http://www.linearteam.dk/default.aspx?pageid=winisdpro

you can input your own drivers in it, and it works really well, shows frequency plots, spl output plots etc.... Can also help you get the right port sizing, which is very important in making a ported/vented box.

Then use the calculations that 89T posted to get your dimensions... We used that program at my old work many times, and it is quite accurate as long as you put in the proper specs.

[2ndGenGuy]

Ports + Vents = Fail

[mykwikcoupe]

ok i think I did something wrong. I plotted all current box configurations and it looked as though the vented box had the greatest rise and flattest curve. When I clicked on box specs it says opptimal is 16 cu ft. Im thinking I dont have that sort of room for 2 subs. any other great ideas. When I bought the 1st set they were installed in a 4th order box and hit super low. issue was they were biult for a sedan and dint fit the layour of the coupe. I sold the box and kept the subs. id love to have the box back but its been dismantled. How can I figure that out?

[Bass Man]

It takes a helluva lot of space for a (good) bandpass. Get me some dimensions of your avaliable work space and what kind of subs you got. I do all the designs for the local audio shop and they've all been really good.

[Bass Man]

Ports + Vents = Fail

2 + two = IV.........

[mykwikcoupe]

the issue I had last time, I ported the box with 4x6in ports through the openings in the rear deck. No matter how heavy, light or whatever I tried I couldnt get the rear deck to stop rattling and the port niose to stop as it vibrated the cheap honda welds. Id like to try again so Im thinking a ported box. Subs facing the rear of the coupe. Ports facing up extended out of the box to the rear deck openings or just below maybe. Its looking like a ported box about 2-2.5ft3 is about right with my power. What do the pros think. Its been years since I even looked into this stuff.

[Bass Man]

I put a layer of Peel and Seal on the rear deck and mine doesn't vibrate very bad, but I don't have the cover, so I got those 2 6x10" holes exposed.

Also, sub back port back.

[gp02a0083]

im wondering the same thing for my hatchback i just want to put in a 12" alpine type x with a alpine MRv T707 im trying to figure out how small to make the box or find one that available that will give me trunk space back . i really hate having the kicker 120SS box

[mykwikcoupe]

Sorry to bring up an old dead thread but I cant help it. Ive been working with bass man and hes been a real good help but Id like to ask a question. Using my JL Audio 12W6 version 1 heres my thought.
http://mobile.jlaudio.com/pdfs/10_12W6AE_MAN.pdf
these are the Anniversary edition and by what I can tell from specs are the exact same speaker down to every spec.
If I use there ported box design in my hatchback and use the 2 ft3 per box I end up with 4ft3.
If my available area is roughly 34 wide x16 high minus the wood would be 32.5 wide x 14.5 high of usable air volume. From this I take the 6912 in2 of the 4 ft3 divided by the available air space (32.5x14.5) I get a resultant of 14.667 in deep. My question is can I take this 14.667 in deep and move it back to shape to the angle of the seat to use the air space?

When i shape the Box to this angled design, Ill have to use the port area they suggest as well. Im wondering If I keep the 1.5in wide design but change the hieght by the .5in space my box uses, can i subtract this volume from the overall length of the port? As well as when the port reqaches the back of the box can i turn it at the angle of the back seat to remain parallel to the box? Would this (being at an agnle) use more port area then being square.

I have no clue if this makes any sence to anyone that can read it but Im a bad teacher and a good learner. If mark can biuld this in one of his great MS paint systems that would be great.

[mykwikcoupe]

so what I have calculated is a box thats 16 in tall, 34 in wide, the top is 12 5/8 in deep, the bottom is 19 5/8 deep. the subs and ports face backwards. If this is right or sounds good Ill set up to biuld. Any advice from this piont? Subs forwards, ports back? Maybe subs up ports back? What would be the best setup to yield the best sound? Im going to SW not DB. Thanks

[Bass Man]

If you really want that ported box (Would be better than JL's pre-fab), I'll get it designed, but you said you didn't want peaky, and those subs are very peaky in ported boxes.

[mykwikcoupe]

That would be great. Im just taking suggestions right now. Ive heard ported gives higher overall gains. Like I said in the PM's space is important and 4ft3 sounds like about my max. I wish that JL would list the DB specs from there box results like that. That would really help. Let me know what you come up with or lets see if you can replicate the results from there design? Thanks