Rear Disk Brake Question

[dacantu]

I was able to pick up a set of rear disks today from an junked SE-i. Can anyone tell me the ups and downsides to doing a SE-i rear disk swap to an 89 LX-i. I think I came across a posting that said its hard to find parts for the SE-i rear disks?

[stat1K]

it's not hard to find parts, i'm sure lx-incredible will come in here and answer the questions...

did you make sure to grab the 4040 prop valve? that's the hardest part of the swap is getting it in and bleeding all the brakes... but it feels great once you do it, i love how disks feel, have them on my civic.

[A18A]

do se-is have 4040 prop valves? random my rear disked accords have 3540 ones lol

[Vector]

not sure about the calipers, but i'm using pads and slotted rotors from a 90-93 integra on the back of my se-i..

when i did my conversion i used a cb7 exr booster/master and prop valve... shit was tight.. i love it. and i'm still using the same booster/master in the rwd accord. the only thing is the lines for the cb7 master come out on the otherside.. and i cant remember how much space there was on that side... probably not much, it will be a tight fit.

[dacantu]

it's not hard to find parts, i'm sure lx-incredible will come in here and answer the questions...

did you make sure to grab the 4040 prop valve? that's the hardest part of the swap is getting it in and bleeding all the brakes... but it feels great once you do it, i love how disks feel, have them on my civic.

I'm sorry man I dont really know what the 4040 prop valve is. If you could elaborate on what it looks like or what it connects to I could probably answer your question a little better. And that would help me understand if I did the removal right lol

do se-is have 4040 prop valves? random my rear disked accords have 3540 ones lol

What would be the difference between this and the 4040s? and would you be able to elaborate also on what this part looks like on the rear disk setup? I'm not so sure if i did the removal right I pretty much got everything except the e-brake cable.

not sure about the calipers, but i'm using pads and slotted rotors from a 90-93 integra on the back of my se-i..

when i did my conversion i used a cb7 exr booster/master and prop valve... shit was tight.. i love it. and i'm still using the same booster/master in the rwd accord. the only thing is the lines for the cb7 master come out on the otherside.. and i cant remember how much space there was on that side... probably not much, it will be a tight fit.

Okay cool so the parts are actually interchangeable then right? If I install the rear discs then I shouldnt have trouble finding parts later even of they are off of a different car?

[stat1K]

the 4040 valve is under the hood and is a brake valve, you need it for proper proportioning of the rear disc brakes, it's on the passenger shock tower and has brake lines going to it...

[dacantu]

the 4040 valve is under the hood and is a brake valve, you need it for proper proportioning of the rear disc brakes, it's on the passenger shock tower and has brake lines going to it...

Thank you statik. Im at the junkyard right now grabbing the ecu and the rest of the brake parts

[stat1K]

hopefully you brought your dykes with you cus the 4040 is easiest to get when you cut it out, not everyone has a flare line wrench in 10mm. i am buying one tomorrow though lol...

[A18A]

vice grips have worked about 100% of the time for me (starting off with them, not after you've rounded the nuts lol), just to break them loose and then you should be able to loosen the rest off with just your fingers

[stat1K]

yeah but when you do that what happens is it leaks all over your backpack when you walk out with it

i cut them and undo the 10mm bolts, takes me all but 3 minutes... also pinches the lines to it won't leak in my backpack all over my tools.

[A18A]

haha that makes sense then. not like the lines are needed anyway on a junk yard car lol

[stat1K]

yep, and a normal 10mm wrench doesn't work, i'm gonna go to harbor freight (cheap tool source) and buy a flare nut wrench set for 10 dollars... it will be usefull to me since then i'll be able to do my brakes without fear of stripping one of those nuts.

[dacantu]

Lol so when i went yesterday i ran out of time before they clsed ill be going again today this time with dykes and some vise grips. Lol have you guys determined the best way to do it yet then? Haha

[stat1K]

it's dykes and a 10mm 1/4" drive, cut the 6 lines and unbolt the 2 bolts. done.

[Civic Accord Honda]

yep flair nut wernches are a real life saver... mine keep vanishing tho LOL ive bought 2 one when i did the civics front brake line and one when i did the accord master cylinder and both cant be found anywhere

[markmdz89hatch]

stat1k has a quick hack way of doing it, but on a junkyard car that's going to the scrap heap anyway, go for it.

...but don't do that (obviously) to your car when you take yours out. A trick an old timer mechanic showed me was using the flare-nut wrench that stat1k is talking about, first give it a little kick tight (not even a full 1/4 turn), then the nut should back off pretty easily. If you just try to back it off without doing that, I've stripped so many of those nuts on the various 3G's I've had in the past.

You definitely need those e-brake cables though. I know they're a pain in the balls to get out sometimes, but as long as it's a coupe SE-i that you're sourcing these parts from, grab those cables. They're pretty expensive to buy new from Honda.

[Dr_Snooz]

yep, and a normal 10mm wrench doesn't work, i'm gonna go to harbor freight (cheap tool source) and buy a flare nut wrench set for 10 dollars... it will be usefull to me since then i'll be able to do my brakes without fear of stripping one of those nuts.

I used a normal open end wrench. A few quick raps with a dead blow hammer and they all loosened without any fuss.

It is a Snap-On wrench (I found it on the roadside, lucky me), so I don't know if that has anything to do with it.

[stat1K]

it's more the hammer and pressing into the nut, i can do the same but in places like the front fender well when a hammer is not really gonna work out for me i'd rather just have the right tool for the job ya know? either way they cost like 10 bucks for a whole set at HF

[dacantu]

stat1k has a quick hack way of doing it, but on a junkyard car that's going to the scrap heap anyway, go for it.

...but don't do that (obviously) to your car when you take yours out. A trick an old timer mechanic showed me was using the flare-nut wrench that stat1k is talking about, first give it a little kick tight (not even a full 1/4 turn), then the nut should back off pretty easily. If you just try to back it off without doing that, I've stripped so many of those nuts on the various 3G's I've had in the past.

You definitely need those e-brake cables though. I know they're a pain in the balls to get out sometimes, but as long as it's a coupe SE-i that you're sourcing these parts from, grab those cables. They're pretty expensive to buy new from Honda.

So I ended up not getting the 4040 valve guys. Someone had already done their dirty work and took it before I even knew what the damn thing was. Lol sucky! But as far as the e-brake cables go! trust me I figured out how big of a pain they were just trying to get them off of the brake assempbly. Whoever changed the brakes on that car previously made my life very difficult aat the junkyard. I ended up ruining the left brake cable because of it. Hope it isnt to expensive to pick up from Honda! lol

it's more the hammer and pressing into the nut, i can do the same but in places like the front fender well when a hammer is not really gonna work out for me i'd rather just have the right tool for the job ya know? either way they cost like 10 bucks for a whole set at HF

I might have to pick up a set of those for when I actually find the correct proportion valve. Here in Phoenix we also have a Harbor Freight which im sure you already knew though. Their tools are so cheap (quality) its funny but its also not one of those places that burn a whole in your pocket. You get what you pay for! I love me some cheap harbor freight tools lol

[stat1K]

those break cables shouldn't be too tough to remove, i've taken the brakes off of an Se-i in the junkyard at least 3 times, and off of DA integra's at least 2 times... never had a problem removing the cables... i bought mine brand new because i don't trust reusing shit like that and if i paid retail it would have been 185 dollars, this is for the parts on my civic which are DA Integra cables, i happened to get them at cost because of a friend of mine and still paid 95 dollars. Not sure on the SE-I ones but check hondapartsnow.com

[nswst8]

If you remove the heat reflective shield the E brake cables are easy to remove. If you tried to disconnect at the E brake handle and pull them then you will damage them.

[stat1K]

^ that's the truth. i always remove stuff so i can see what's going on, it's way harder to try to figure it out without removing everything.

[dacantu]

those break cables shouldn't be too tough to remove, i've taken the brakes off of an Se-i in the junkyard at least 3 times, and off of DA integra's at least 2 times... never had a problem removing the cables... i bought mine brand new because i don't trust reusing shit like that and if i paid retail it would have been 185 dollars, this is for the parts on my civic which are DA Integra cables, i happened to get them at cost because of a friend of mine and still paid 95 dollars. Not sure on the SE-I ones but check hondapartsnow.com

Problem is whoever owned the car/whoever changed the brakes removed the e-brake cable at one point and when they bolted the metal plate that connects to the brakes and hold the brake cable, they bolted it in wrong which gave me lots of troublee at the junk yard. Thats actually the reason why I went to the junk yard more than once. lol but I ended up ruining the cable because of the stupid metal plate.

If you remove the heat reflective shield the E brake cables are easy to remove. If you tried to disconnect at the E brake handle and pull them then you will damage them.

I will take pics tomorrow when I go back to get the center console. and arm rest. Then you guys can tell me if I can still use the cable. although I really have a feeling I wnt be able to. The left one atleast. The right one i'll also go in and get.

^ that's the truth. i always remove stuff so i can see what's going on, it's way harder to try to figure it out without removing everything.

Are there any specific tools needed to remove the heat shield?

[markmdz89hatch]

Are there any specific tools needed to remove the heat shield?

Just a 10mm socket, extension and 3/8 ratchet. that's it. You *might* want to just loosen up the exhaust hangers so you can get at it better.

[dacantu]

Just a 10mm socket, extension and 3/8 ratchet. that's it. You *might* want to just loosen up the exhaust hangers so you can get at it better.

Cool I'll do my best. As far as getting the cable removed. Will there be any special tools required for that?