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Thread: Car won't start HELP PLS

  1. #1
    SEi User toastyghost's Avatar
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    Car won't start HELP PLS

    Ok about that chugging problem I was having... I made an appointment at a shop, told them based on what you guys said it was probably fuel filters. The tune up tech guy said the same, he changed the fuel filters and it was running a lot better on the whole but still having that same problem after it had been on for a while. Today it got really bad and it will not start and stay on for more than a few seconds unless I give it a LOT of gas. So my precious car is sitting in the KFC parking lot til I either get the balls to try to drive it a couple miles home like that or call the shop and have them tow it. Does anyone have any idea what might cause the car to cut on, idle really really low, and then cut off? But also be fine when it is getting more gas?
    ~<+045+ygH05+>~



  2. #2
    3Geez Veteran smufguy's Avatar
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    its ur butterfly valve not staying open. Dont worry about it, ur carb is dying. Thats what happened to me. THe car needs to be warm, then it would start, cause the flap would be half open at idle, but now, it just closes totally (vacuum probs). The only recovery u can have. is to have the hood open with the air filter out and shit and exposing ur carb where u can actually touch the flap on the carb.

    next what u do is, give it some gas, start it up and just rev it a lil bit and quickly get out of the car and have something in ur hand like a milk gallon cap or something like that and stick it in the carb in where the butterfly valve is lil open, it will idle fine now, but u gotta watch out cause once the car warms up, its gonna make the flap open lil more and that would make ur milk gallon cap fall inside. This is the only way i was able to run my car in its last days. This is the best way u can have the car idle.

    but the other thing u can do is, start the car up and have ur foot on the gas until the car warms up.

    i was tired of this shit so what i did was tighten the throttle cable, which makes the valve open as it is in idle and then raised the idle up a lil bit cause my car started to die on me often.

    this would be one of the ways u can get the car up and running until u can get it to the garage.

    goo luck.

  3. #3
    SEi User toastyghost's Avatar
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    Would one of the rebuild kits on NOPI fix this? How difficult is it to do that? Also, how difficult to install Weber carb? Don't really want to go that route but I definitely don't have the money for a proper swap and I can only have one car undergoing swap at a time...
    ~<+045+ygH05+>~

  4. #4
    SEi User toastyghost's Avatar
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    Just started it up and drove it home and it was fine... Is this consistent with what you said about the butterfly being fucked?
    ~<+045+ygH05+>~

  5. #5

    YK86's Avatar
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    Sounds like a carb problem. Rebuild kits are fine if you know what you are doing. Make sure you use a strong cleaner and soak all the metal parts overnight (the cleaner will eat away plastic on sensors, float, o-rings). Or you can try using a good carb from the wreckers for about the same price of a rebuild kit. Make sure you get a warranty if you get it from the wreckers.
    www.b20accord.com

  6. #6
    3Geez Veteran 87AccordsterLx's Avatar
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    WEBER!!!!
    ~Nathan~

    "There's always something waiting at the end of the road. If you are not willing to see what it is, you probably shouldn't be out there in the first place."
    ~StOcK PiCs~

  7. #7
    SEi User toastyghost's Avatar
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    a 93 z34 that's getting parted out, an 86 accord lx that now lives in a j/y, and a 90 camry le that the state no longer allows me to drive. soon to be replaced with an aprilia rs50 or a derbi gpr.
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    I was thinking maybe a Weber but that means giving up on the B20A dream at least for a while... god knows if the car will even be running long enough for me to scrape together the dough for a swap. Is the 32/36 kit on NOPI complete? I mean, is that all I need to buy to make it work? What kind of performance gains could I expect to see from just putting a different carb on? Honestly the wrecker carb sounds like the best option for cost and ease of installation. But when the thing sits for a little bit and then it is fine, is that definitely a carb problem? If it's something dumb like it needs a tune-up I would feel like a shithead for forking out for another carb or spending the time to rebuild this one...
    ~<+045+ygH05+>~

  8. #8
    2.0Si User Neuspeed87lx's Avatar
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    i was having the same problem....i paid 15 bucks for a re-build kit and i re-built the carb myself ....it was alot of work but it was better than haveing the shop do it (they wanted 500 bucks to rebuild it) if i were you i would just get one of the rebuild kits and try it yourself....its kinda time consuming though
    Jay

  9. #9
    you could also have a faulty ignition coil/ignitor, the problem usually shows up at lower RPMs and gets progressively worse
    Eric
    3geez member since October 12, 2000
    "All this worldly wisdom was once the unamiable heresy of some wise man." - Henry David Thoreau

  10. #10
    3Geez Veteran smufguy's Avatar
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    In my case, it was a persistant carb problem with the whole vaccum shit not opening up the butterfly valve. me and my mechanic changed almost everything (not to menting 2300 bucks spent on my car, just to replace them to stock). Thats why i gave up on my carb and switched on the efi swap. well, if u wanna do an efi swap, it will also make it easier on ur B20 swap.

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