whats the easiest and fastest way to get more than 33 mpg?

[BoogerBurns]

I get 33 mpg last time at the pump, im really happy after getting 14 mpg with my truck with a 302 V8 ford truck. But IS there a way to get more? I H shift and dont engine brake and stuff like that, shift at about 2.5RPM. and use 5th gear alot. Tell me HOOW?!?!?

[ghettogeddy]

33 is pretty good

[frantik]

buy a motorcycle

... dont engine brake ...

does engine breaking give you worse mpg?

[Civic Accord Honda]

Step 1 Remove A20a3
Step 2 make new motor mounts
Step 3 Install G10L
Step 4 enjoy hella mpg
Step 5 rage about how slow your car is
Step 6 drink a beer!

[cubert]

Step 1 Remove A20a3
Step 2 make new motor mounts
Step 3 Install G10L
Step 4 enjoy hella mpg
Step 5 rage about how slow your car is
Step 6 drink a beer!

Seriously though...33mpg out a a 20 year old 2 liter engine isnt bad at all. Whens the last time the car had a tune up?

[greentee76]

http://WWW.ECOMODDER.COM

[Vanilla Sky]

A bicycle.

[Rendon LX-i]

NO get a BUSA bike motor boosted will make tons of hp and have 34mpg LOL

[2oodoor]

advance ign timing in two degree increments until you get spark knock detonation then back off two degrees or till it stops. You should be able to get slightly above the spec that way. It allows much less throttle opening for power. Be very carefull doing this because detonation will harm the engine.

tire pressure, weight loss, synthetic oil, wax car for less wind resistance

[Dr_Snooz]

Drive 55.

[BoogerBurns]

Just did a tune up. And Engine braking does consume more fuel. Also, I know with my ford that I had, if you put a Cold Air Intake, and new Exhaust on it, it would bump the mpg by like 1-2. Would that be about right for these A series hondas? If so I wont waste my time yet.
And I like the G10l idea. But that would be hella slow. Like couldnt barely make 55 mph.
And yes snooz, I drive around 55 everywhere, except on major highways like I-20, I have to do around 70 there. Just accustomed to it.

[Joay]

Also, I know with my ford that I had, if you put a Cold Air Intake, and new Exhaust on it, it would bump the mpg by like 1-2. Would that be about right for these A series hondas?

Depends on how you drive and how the parts are designed to work. Most small motor performance parts like that are made to produce more horsepower towards the redline (where you don't get good mileage anyway) at the expense of losing some torque down low (where you normally operate).

Valve adjustment, good fuel like BP or some Chevrons, and pay attention. I got over 37mpg from my bone-stock A20 driving through the Appalachian mountains by keeping the windows up, AC off, drafting, and accelerating downhill and slowing down uphill. Generally, the most efficient stoichiometric fuel mixture in top gear is around 50-60mph, so keep it there as often as you can.

And I know there's an ongoing debate about this, but someone (on 3Geez, I think) actually logged their fuel consumption and found that leaving the engine in gear with the throttle closed uses like 1/6 the fuel that idling does. Personally I get better mileage doing that, and I live in a hilly area. But it's an easy experiment to conduct yourself.

Oh! And think about getting a vacuum gauge.

[Vanilla Sky]

I know that in newer cars there's a fuel cutoff when you engine brake. Are our cars not that smart? Other manufacturers were doing it around that time.

[LX-incredible]

I'm consistently getting 32-33 city and 41 hwy @ 65-70 mph. Intake, full exhaust, no ps or ac, obd1 with unchipped PR4.

[Nafs Asdf]

Our cars should cut the fuel when engine breaking, if they're FI that is. So yeah for better mileage, you should leave it in gear instead of switching to neutral.

I guess the opposite goes for carbed cars.

[cygnus x-1]

http://ecomodder.com/forum/EM-hyperm...ecodriving.php

C|

[carotman]

Yup, the ECU cuts the fuel when engine braking. There's no point in providing fuel when you're at 2500 rpm with the throttle plate closed.

[ecogabriel]

I know that in newer cars there's a fuel cutoff when you engine brake. Are our cars not that smart? Other manufacturers were doing it around that time.

I know for a fact that at least the '89s are as smart. The 89 service manual describes our PGM-FI system and it says that when one releases the gas pedal completely the ECU cuts off the injectors to save fuel. I have not read about earlier models but it should be the same. If one thinks about it, one does not need fuel in that case; the engine still has to labor to suck air in because the throttle is closed, it compresses that air and then pumps it out.

Anyway, 33 MPG is excellent. I got about 30 MPG once (it's an automatic) because I barely drive the car in highway. Overall, those are in the ballpark of EPA numbers so I'm OK with them.
Another reason why our cars did not qualify for "cash for clunkers"; they are just too good to be scrapped.

[ecogabriel]

Depends on how you drive and how the parts are designed to work. Most small motor performance parts like that are made to produce more horsepower towards the redline (where you don't get good mileage anyway) at the expense of losing some torque down low (where you normally operate).

Valve adjustment, good fuel like BP or some Chevrons, and pay attention. I got over 37mpg from my bone-stock A20 driving through the Appalachian mountains by keeping the windows up, AC off, drafting, and accelerating downhill and slowing down uphill. Generally, the most efficient stoichiometric fuel mixture in top gear is around 50-60mph, so keep it there as often as you can.

And I know there's an ongoing debate about this, but someone (on 3Geez, I think) actually logged their fuel consumption and found that leaving the engine in gear with the throttle closed uses like 1/6 the fuel that idling does. Personally I get better mileage doing that, and I live in a hilly area. But it's an easy experiment to conduct yourself.

Oh! And think about getting a vacuum gauge.

The way you drive makes a lot of a difference. In a trip from GA to IN (about 500 miles) we both took turns at the wheel. In the Toyota (Camry 4cyl, 2.2 auto) A/C was on all the time (f... sticky hot and humid). I averaged 32-33 MPG in that trip; accelerated downhill, eased off pedal uphill, very smooth acceleration, keeping speed as much as possible... my wife's MPG? 29. She did not do what Joay did (or what I did). And even more funny, I ended up driving faster than she did (~70/75 MPH).
Bottom line: the closest one runs the car to its ideal stoichometric fuel mixture the better; jackrabbit accelerations would not cut it. Even A/C would not be that much of a drag on freeway driving

[BoogerBurns]

I must be doing something right! Well I checked the ecomodder stuff out and I LOVE IT!

[w261w261]

Does anyone know how much fuel our (f.i.) engines use at idle? I'm thinking of two scenarios. On a flat road with a mile to a stop sign and the car going 45 mph: Scenario #1, off the gas and coasting in neutral, the car just makes it to the stop sign before stopping. #2, off the gas and left in 5th, the fuel flow is turned off, and the car coasts to a halt, but doesn't make it to the stop sign because of the additional drag of the transmission. Let's make it fairer and say rather than wait for the car to stop and then have to get it going again before again getting off the gas and coasting to the stop sign, we do it best way and stay on the gas just a bit longer (originally) before letting off and coasting in gear w/o fuel. In other words, which is better, the relative loss of efficiency because of the parasitic drag of the in-gear tranny, or the loss because of the idling engine?

[ba109296]

You guys must SUCK at driving. My 89 gets around 45 in the summertime and a disappointing 35-39 during winter.

[2ndGenGuy]

You must SUCK at math. I call BS.

[Lil Mike]

lol my 2gee gets like 20 mpg siiick!!

[w261w261]

<< My 89 gets around 45 in the summertime >>

newbie dreams.