High Mileage maintenance

[and12buc]

Hey guys/girls. Im a little new to the threads. ive been on the website for the past couple months just browsing but never posted anything. I didnt know where else to ask but..

Here's the deal. I have a 89 honda accord. not original owner. Has 273,xxx miles+. I have been maintaining it to the best of my capabilities and with tried the least costly way(not really). ive done two tune ups in the past 12,000 miles and used high grade components. added new minor things : radiator hoses, fuel filter, spark plug wires, o2 sensors, anchor bushing, blah blah blah. Kept up with oil changes every 3,000 miles. Oil i use: 3qts of Castro gtx High Mileage formula 5-30w, with an "engine restorer & lubricant" additive by Automotive Products. Also use engine flush each oil change.

Now my question is: is there a better way i could be maintaining my car along with better use of Additives. My main concern is the oil i use. Ive been reading about other high mileage oils and i want to know which is best for me.

Some say synthetic you cant go wrong with. but i also heard that its more likely it'll leak if i switch to full synthetic since my engine has very high mileage.
so looking on to the many high mileage formulas out there. i cant figure which is the best: Valvoline Maxlife, Citgo Ultralife, O'Reily's, AMSOIL synthetic. I cant decide!

And does the grade matter 5-30, 10-30, 10-40w etc. I was recommended 5-30w but would it be better if i change to a diff grade?

Also, about cleaning. I've read about Auto-rx. what are your takes. I doubt seafoaming will do good to my car since it might clean too much.

Or should i just look into an engine swap b18 or b20. I'm having a hard time looking for a20.

Thanks.

[russiankid]

Just stay with conventional oil and you'll be fine. These motors will last a long time if cared for. I have 170k on mine, I run Mobile 1 all the time and change it 4-5k. I am not afraid to rev the car either as I know its a healthy engine. I run 10w30 in it.

Also, the color of your spark plugs are a good indicator as to how well the engine is running.

[Oldblueaccord]

Well just readin what you have done is more or less over kill to me esp 2 tune ups in 12k miles.

How well does your car run in your opinion? I guess more importantly is how much oil does it use per mile and what is your gas mileage. Those are 2 things that an average user can use to guage how well a motor is doing.

Also have you looed at all at your suspension parts. There important safety wise and there are a few links that wear on or cars and need to be checked now and again.


wp

[and12buc]

Well as far as oil consumption I'd say I haveto add 1/4 qt. Of oil each 1000 miles(approx) My gas mileage is around 20-22mpg (not good) but yea I can't tell if that is a bad sign. My car is a bit jump on thehighway don't know what that means either. Doing an alignment soon. But everything else is smooth. I use the car as a commute (estimate 200 miles a week :/ ) don't really use it as a stop and go type of transportation. But I keep up with the maintenance the best way possible.

[nfs480]

Stop doing engine flushes first of all. The flushes contain harsh chemicals to clean things out and if used too often can start to eat away at the seals. In terms of oil, i'm using Amsoil 5W-30 currently in my se-i and previously I was using Valvoline Maxlife Full Synthetic 5w-30. It was run on conventional until a little past 200,000 miles when I switched to the valvoline synthetic.

[and12buc]

In terms of oil, i'm using Amsoil 5W-30 currently in my se-i and previously I was using Valvoline Maxlife Full Synthetic 5w-30. It was run on conventional until a little past 200,000 miles when I switched to the valvoline synthetic.

So u recommend amsoil? And thanks I'll discontinue the engine flush

[nfs480]

It's a little soon for me to recommend it, I just put it in 600 miles ago and plan to run it for 15,000. So far it's been working very well, but before i'm willing to all out recommend it, i'd like to use it longer.

[ecogabriel]

A well-cared engine would produce little dirt if at all. Oil that is left far in excess of any reasonable limit is what produces problems but from what you said it is not the case for you.

Which oil to use??? Everyone has its preference; I would say stick with the oil grade according to user/service manual and check if you live in a climate that requires special consideration (e.g. cold climates requiring lowering oil grade).
As for the type of oil, anything from a reputable manufacturer should be OK to use. I use Rotella T (Shell) which is actually a "fleet oil" for both diesel and gas engines (API CJ/SM) Bikers also use that oil or its synthetic version.
Regardless of oil choice one good thing you can do is get an oil analysis done. It will tell a lot about the condition of the engine like an X-ray. Do a google search if interested.

One last thing: make sure your crankcase ventilation system (PCV valve and hoses) work. that would help a lot in removing the acids that form during combustion from the engine.

[and12buc]

Will do. Thank you so much guys. I think ill stick with what I have. But I'll look into amsoil a bit more and that xray type analysis. Thanks again

[nfs480]

In terms of analysis you can look into using Blackstone labs (http://www.blackstone-labs.com/) where you can get a free kit to mail your sample in, then it costs like $32 to actually have the analysis done. It's something i've been planning on doing with my current fill of Amsoil after a few thousand miles.

[and12buc]

In terms of analysis you can look into using Blackstone labs.

sweet. thanks man. have you tried them yet? i just wanna know how accurate they are.

[nfs480]

I haven't used them myself yet, but on bobistheoilguy.com they seem to be the #1 most used lab in the Used Oil Analysis section on the board.

[bullard123]

Yes the oil weight matters. The higher the weight the thicker the oil. 10w-30 is thicker than 5w-30. 20 weight is thicker than 10 weight and so forth and so on. Its better to use the thicker weight oils on these old engines and from my experience I really like the Penzoil High Mileage oil w/stop leak in the brown bottle

[and12buc]

I haven't used them myself yet, but on bobistheoilguy.com they seem to be the #1 most used lab in the Used Oil Analysis section on the board.

hmm sounds familiar. i talked to my dad about oil analysis and he said something about this site. he kept saying bob-oil-guy and i didnt believe him, but now i think he might be right haha.

Yes the oil weight matters. The higher the weight the thicker the oil. 10w-30 is thicker than 5w-30. 20 weight is thicker than 10 weight and so forth and so on. Its better to use the thicker weight oils on these old engines and from my experience I really like the Penzoil High Mileage oil w/stop leak in the brown bottle

i thought so also. i use 5-30 currently, and i kept debating between 5 or 10 weight. but i think ill switch to 10-30w. what do you use? and is what u use the normal weight recommended or did you just switch to a thicker oil?

[Dr_Snooz]

As far as oil weight, you should follow the guidelines in the owner's manual for the ambient temperatures in your area. I use 10/40 for the Central Valley in California which enjoys mild winters and very hot summers.

I'm somewhat concerned that you are using a fair amount of oil and have perfectly dreadful mileage. I'd say relax on the maintenance and start investigating those problems. Unless the oil is blowing blue out the tail pipe, you can probably spend about $30 on engine seals and fix that. The mileage is somewhat more complicated so tell us how it runs and we'll go from there. Most suspension problems can be found with a simple visual inspection, just get under the car and look at all the rubber parts holding the wheels on. If they are cracked and broken or leaking goo, you need to replace them.

Judging by the pic in your signature, the car is still in good shape and a keeper, so do the work and enjoy it.

[gp02a0083]

yah synthetic can cause oil leaks on a high mileage engine , stick with what russian kid said. 1 engine flush should have been fine , as far as mpg's go check wheel alignment, anything dragging with the rotating assembly. Do compression check on all cylinders, Ive noticed more often than not its valve stem seals that go in older model cars

i use conventional still , 10-30W in the winter 10-40 in the summer

[nfs480]

Usually synthetics don't cause oil leaks, they just reveal leaks that are already there by cleaning up false seals caused by sludge. I think if it didn't start leaking after the engine flushes it probably won't from synthetic.

[AccordEpicenter]

i hate the high-mileage type oils out there now. Most if not all contain seal conditioners that make seals swell in order to stop leaks etc, but if you dont have leaks or leaky seals then they swell the seals up for no good reason, which is bad, and if you have leaks and want to go back to regular type oils then it can make your leaks much worse. I use synthetic but conventional is fine, but the use of additives is not needed with an already good quality oil. I run mobil 1 in my 130k mile 04 TL, and you wouldnt believe how clean the inside of the valve covers are, engine literally looks new!! I change the oil at like 6k mile intervals too

[russiankid]

Yes the oil weight matters. The higher the weight the thicker the oil. 10w-30 is thicker than 5w-30. 20 weight is thicker than 10 weight and so forth and so on. Its better to use the thicker weight oils on these old engines and from my experience I really like the Penzoil High Mileage oil w/stop leak in the brown bottle

Only difference between 5w30 and 10w30 is that 5w30 is not as thick when cold. Otherwise, both are the same at operating temps.

[russiankid]

Usually synthetics don't cause oil leaks, they just reveal leaks that are already there by cleaning up false seals caused by sludge. I think if it didn't start leaking after the engine flushes it probably won't from synthetic.

Safe for me to switch to synthetic? I have:

New front and rear crank seals
Oil pan gasket
Valve cover gasket
Camshaft seal
All new oil pump seals

[and12buc]

yah synthetic can cause oil leaks on a high mileage engine , stick with what russian kid said. 1 engine flush should have been fine , as far as mpg's go check wheel alignment, anything dragging with the rotating assembly. Do compression check on all cylinders, Ive noticed more often than not its valve stem seals that go in older model cars

i use conventional still , 10-30W in the winter 10-40 in the summer

yea i scheduled a wheel alignment. my sister's bf does them for cheap like $40 bucks. hope hes good. ill look into that compression check also.
so lemme get this straight. thicker oil is better in the summer?

i hate the high-mileage type oils out there now. Most if not all contain seal conditioners that make seals swell in order to stop leaks etc, but if you dont have leaks or leaky seals then they swell the seals up for no good reason, which is bad, and if you have leaks and want to go back to regular type oils then it can make your leaks much worse. I use synthetic but conventional is fine, but the use of additives is not needed with an already good quality oil. I run mobil 1 in my 130k mile 04 TL, and you wouldnt believe how clean the inside of the valve covers are, engine literally looks new!! I change the oil at like 6k mile intervals too

i had no clue about that. but i honestly dont recall any leaks with the engine at all. just power steering leaks that i fixed already, but as far as oil leaks, i dont even think there has been any. but i dont want to risk anything and switch to regular type oils. dont have the time to fully inspect.
but yea mobil1, gotta love it. when (or if) i do an engine swap, mobil1 is my first choice.

I'm somewhat concerned that you are using a fair amount of oil and have perfectly dreadful mileage. I'd say relax on the maintenance and start investigating those problems. Unless the oil is blowing blue out the tail pipe, you can probably spend about $30 on engine seals and fix that. The mileage is somewhat more complicated so tell us how it runs and we'll go from there. Most suspension problems can be found with a simple visual inspection, just get under the car and look at all the rubber parts holding the wheels on. If they are cracked and broken or leaking goo, you need to replace them.

Judging by the pic in your signature, the car is still in good shape and a keeper, so do the work and enjoy it.

Yes, well obviously i cant really tell you in detail how the car runs, but ill take the inspection into consideration asap. i may have to replace some rubber parts, i doubt the previous owner even looked under there.

[JFern]

Yes the oil weight matters. The higher the weight the thicker the oil. 10w-30 is thicker than 5w-30. 20 weight is thicker than 10 weight and so forth and so on. Its better to use the thicker weight oils on these old engines and from my experience I really like the Penzoil High Mileage oil w/stop leak in the brown bottle

you should stay away from pennzoil, that crap is wax based and they always fall behind when a new certification comes out (it took them 6 months to catch up to all the other companies when we went to API certified SM oils)

[nfs480]

Safe for me to switch to synthetic? I have:

New front and rear crank seals
Oil pan gasket
Valve cover gasket
Camshaft seal
All new oil pump seals

You're definitely safe, I switched to synthetic after 200k with just a new oil pan gasket and nothing started leaking.

[Dr_Snooz]

i may have to replace some rubber parts, i doubt the previous owner even looked under there.

Most people don't. They drive until there is a loud noise and a loss of control and then pay to clean up the mess. I think it's great that you're trying so hard to keep good care of the car.

To answer your initial question about high mileage maintenance, you want to stick with the manufacturer's suggested maintenance schedule for the life of the car. More is not better when it comes to normal maintenance. What you do want to do is step up your vigilance. You want to do more and more careful inspections. With every oil change, just spend time looking the car over. Look for leaks, look for torn or broken rubber, frayed wires, rust, damage of any kind. Inspect the suspension parts, the exhaust system, underbody, engine bay, etc. etc. etc. Every time you tear something down to work on it, take your time and work with awareness. Notice when something doesn't look right, or when it's not going together right. Those are clues that something might be getting tired and in need of repair. Check your fluids frequently. I check mine at each fill-up. Older cars develop leaks and if you catch a leak early, you can prevent a costly repair. Awareness goes for driving too. When the car starts doing something new (a new noise, a new wobble, a different interval to do something) you want to be aware of it and reading about what it could be and how to fix it.

I'd say awareness is really the key. These cars will last forever. Most importantly, they will give you incredibly long lead times on repairs. Unlike other cars where the car will break without warning and leave you stranded, these cars will tell you something is wrong 100,000 miles before they leave you stranded. Even when they do finally break, they'll still run and get you home.

One final trick is to put in a gauge pack. The oil light on the car is not sensitive enough to prevent a big problem. Get an oil gauge that will tell you the moment something goes wrong. A volt gauge can tell you when the electrical system is getting out of sorts and a vacuum gauge can tell you volumes about the engine before any symptoms show up.

I've typed too long, but I love these cars. They are worthy vehicles that will never die if you treat them right. More importantly, they are heaps of fun to drive and dirt cheap to own. Keep yours forever because they don't make cars like this any more and probably never will.

[and12buc]

hey man, great words of advice. thanks alot! this car is my baby (cliché) and im doing my best to keep it as long as possible