New motor mounts..

[CzEcHy]

Alrighty so for the past year I've had horrible vibrations when in D4 and not moving.. So I adjusted the idle screw (keep in mind its a carburated a20a1, automatic) and raised the idle to around 1000rpm in D4 and it went between 1200 and 1500 in N or P (horrible for the car I know..)

Anyway I got ALL 3 mounts done last night and found out 2 were shot, the front mount was all messed up..

I've lowered the idle to around 750ish for drive and the car still vibrates, and sometime wants to die..

That and it fluctuates slightly like I have a vaccum leak (which I shouldn't I just replaced the bad lines an checked them all a couple of months ago)


Anyway, does it take some time for the mounts to wear in to where the vibrations will stop, I guess I was just dreaming the mounts would of fixed it the second they were put in lol..

Any info would be helpful, or personal experiences with soft mounts


EDIT - I used the idle stop screw to adjust the idle (bad idea Y/N?)

[TurboRu]

nah motor mounts don't break in.... it sounds like its ur tranny to me. does the vibration do it in neutral? or just D4 when you put ur foot on the brake? Does it do it on in reverse?

try checkin ur tranny fluid...

its been a year so ur tranny might be toasted by now.
Does it slip at all when u floor it?
Does it clunk when you engage any gear?


I had a tranny in a 89 benz that wouldn't slip but did vibrate in D and would clunk going into gears. That thing was fried....

just my 2 pennies

[CzEcHy]

nah motor mounts don't break in.... it sounds like its ur tranny to me. does the vibration do it in neutral? or just D4 when you put ur foot on the brake? Does it do it on in reverse?

try checkin ur tranny fluid...

its been a year so ur tranny might be toasted by now.
Does it slip at all when u floor it?
Does it clunk when you engage any gear?


I had a tranny in a 89 benz that wouldn't slip but did vibrate in D and would clunk going into gears. That thing was fried....

just my 2 pennies

Only In D4 does it vibrate, it raises to like 800-900 in N and it's smooth as butter..

Also does it in reverse, and shifting between R and D4 made it stall..

It doesn't slip when I floor it, at all.. It's actually shifting smooth as a whistle after the mounts..

But it does clunk when I shift into R I think, or maybe from R to D4 or vice versa..

They told me the fluid was fine, and it's to old/to many miles to replace the fluid or something (miles = 237,xxx)

[CzEcHy]

Only In D4 does it vibrate, it raises to like 800-900 in N and it's smooth as butter..

Also vibrates it in reverse, and shifting between R and D4 made it stall..

It doesn't slip when I floor it, at all.. It's actually shifting smooth as a whistle after the mounts..

But it does clunk when I shift into R I think, or maybe from R to D4 or vice versa..

They told me the fluid was fine, and it's to old/to many miles to replace the fluid or something (miles = 237,xxx)

Accidently hit quote and not reply for some reason ^^ updated message anyway)

[Vanilla Sky]

It does sound like a vac leak. Are you setting the idle speed in gear or in park? It should be set in D4 with the parking brake on and the wheels chocked. I think idle speed should be set between 750 an 800 RPM under those conditions.

Does anything make the condition go away, like warming the engine up?

Have you checked your coolant level? While it normally won't itself cause such a vibration, it may cause a fluctuating idle.

[nfs480]

It's not too late to change the fluid. There's a myth that changing the transmission fluid in high mileage transmissions will shock them and cause them to fail, this is not true. If you're really worried just do a drain and fill (not a flush), pull the drain plug on the bottom of the tranny and it will drain about 50% of the fluid, reinstall the drain plug and refill with 3.2 quarts of an ATF meeting the Dexron II specification (ATF-Z1 works really well) and you'll definitely extend the life of the transmission unless it's shot already.

EDIT: Also, the mounts should have fixed the vibrations immediately. I had horrible vibrations when stopped in D4 and I replaced the front and rear motor mounts and immediately the first time I started the car after I was done with the project the motor ran smooth.

[Vanilla Sky]

On the ATF note, stick with ATF-Z from the dealership. More and more of the guys around here are nearly curing their transmission problems with the stuff. As long as your old fluid isn't burnt or full of clutch, you should be fine to do a drain and fill.

[CzEcHy]

It does sound like a vac leak. Are you setting the idle speed in gear or in park? It should be set in D4 with the parking brake on and the wheels chocked. I think idle speed should be set between 750 an 800 RPM under those conditions.

Does anything make the condition go away, like warming the engine up?

Have you checked your coolant level? While it normally won't itself cause such a vibration, it may cause a fluctuating idle.

I set it in P, I guess I'll set it when in D4..

And the engine being warm doesn't really do much..

And for my coolant, my radiator is leaky, so it's basically water in the radiator..


I've had alot of small problems with my car, and have been to poor to fix them properly, so ya..




On a side note about the front mount, the engine seems to be slightly higher on the left side (from the front looking back), it wasn't like that before, is it supposed to be..?

(The mounts were identical to my old ones except new and the front mount had a bolt like a mile high instead of a couple of inches like the old one)


I just wanted the car to stop vibrating and get to lower my idle so my brakes would work, I'm highly disappointed..

[Vanilla Sky]

Did you replace the driver's side mount or the transmission mount? Technically, we have 4 mounts holding the drive train up.

Snap a pic for us. That will help a lot.

As for the leaky radiator, they're not too expensive. You can get a Koyo on ebay for around $100. I'd save up and get that done right.

[CzEcHy]

Did you replace the driver's side mount or the transmission mount? Technically, we have 4 mounts holding the drive train up.

Snap a pic for us. That will help a lot.

As for the leaky radiator, they're not too expensive. You can get a Koyo on ebay for around $100. I'd save up and get that done right.

I replaced the big front mount, the mount near the brake booster (closest known object), the mount near the firewall..

There's a fourth one?! They told me that was all of them <.<

[CzEcHy]

Alright here is the pictures of the old mounts...

Front


Firewall?


Drivers side near the top (easiest one to get to apparently)

[Vanilla Sky]

It's under the car, it keeps the transmission from shifting around. It's mounted to the transmission crossmember.

What about pics of the engine sitting in the bay? It may just be an issue with the driver's side mount.

[CzEcHy]

Here is the best pictures I could do (camera phone bare with)..












The bar isn't straight.. It's up higher on the engine side...








See the leaning?

[Vanilla Sky]

IIRC, the rear mount is specific to the transmission, with one being taller. Would it be possible that you got the wrong rear engine mount?

[LX-incredible]

I used some crappy chinese or taiwanese mounts on my auto and the vibrations actually got worse. Turns out the front mount was completely solid, not liquid filled like oem.

[CzEcHy]

IIRC, the rear mount is specific to the transmission, with one being taller. Would it be possible that you got the wrong rear engine mount?

I went to O'reilly auto parts and ordered all 3 at the same time..

The front mount is 1 1/2 inch HIGHER than my old mount (just measured it with a ruler..)

The rear mount, no idea, it looked identical when I pulled it from the box..

The new mounts also feel like solid hard rubber, which is bad prob..?

[LX-incredible]

The oem has probably collapsed over time and when new will give a bit when the motor is set on it. A solid front mount will give you excessive vibrations.

[CzEcHy]

The oem has probably collapsed over time and when new will give a bit when the motor is set on it. A solid front mount will give you excessive vibrations.

So will it take some time for the new mount to wear in and soften? Maybe vibrate less?

I'm kind of angry I just spent almost 200$ I didn't really have to get the mounts and get them installed..


The front one is rubber, not solid, but it is super hard rubber..

Any idea why my engine is higher on the left hand side (looking towards the windshield)? And is that bad?

[nfs480]

You might have had better luck with Genuine Honda motor mounts (which are the ones I used) from this website: http://www.hondaautomotiveparts.com/

[Oldblueaccord]

Other thing is there is a TSB for our cars with the torque converter not slipping enough at idle in gear. That sounds about what your feeling but I would still get your mounts straightened out.


wp

[gtmst3]

my car clunks when going into park seems to do it at random times no slipping and trannny fluid is fine what do you think?

[CzEcHy]

If anybody can get me an OEM front mount (the big one with the rubber cover), and ship it to me, in NW Florida, for around 75$ or less, I would love them..


I need one from like Majestic Honda or a Honda dealership, no parts stores or aftermarket names please.

If anybody can help, please PM me.. (I have a credit card but I just don't want to deal with the hassle of ordering)..


Or just find me a super cheap one, and I'll do it..

I just don't want to pay the 90+$ at the dealership for one mount....

(Kind of to poor for that much <.<)

[nfs480]

The front mount on Majestic looks like it costs $63.23 plus shipping and handling.

[CzEcHy]

The front mount on Majestic looks like it costs $63.23 plus shipping and handling.

This is OEM identical to my old mount right? I don't want another screw up, especially not one that I have to order...

[Vanilla Sky]

Let me check my cars. I think the front mount was replaced just before I parked one of them. Would be A LOT cheaper than $75. If I have one, maybe you should take a trip and pick up a radiator, too.