Lower ball joint problem

[car6289]

The lower ball joint on the left is the original that came with the car when it was new. (1989) The lower ball joint on the right is an OEM Honda replacement P/N 51220-SK7-013. The big difference is the old one has a groove (yellow highlighted) for the snap ring to retain the ball joint in the steering knuckle. The new one has no such groove thus cannot be retained in the knuckle other than by friction.

Has anyone ever had this issue? Is there an alternate way of retaining this different style new ball joint in the knuckle that I am not seeing. I checked a couple of online Honda parts retailers and the part number is correct for my application, 1989 Accord LX.
New parts bought locally at Honda dealer. Their computer also shows this part number 51220-SK7-013 to be correct for my car.

[Civic Accord Honda]

should be alls gravy... maybe the old one was a cheap universal replacement or something i dont recall mine having a snap ring..

[carotman]

You do not need the groove. The new balljoints do not have them.

There is NO way the balljoint can come off the knuckle. The design of the suspension itself puts constant traction force on the balljoint from the springs.

[car6289]

Thanks carotman. I just came in from the garage and now that you mention that the ball joint cannot come out of the knuckle when the knuckle is installed in the car, I see that you are so correct. The only way for the ball joint to become separated is for the ball joint to fail. Banging my head against a wall from time to time is good therapy. So is a good belt of Tequila. Back to the garage I go, I've got the right side yet to do. Thanks again and cheers!!!

[AccordB20A]

my brand new ones were held into the hub not only pressed in there pretty good but they had a circlip.

[car6289]

AccordB20A were your new ball joints Honda or aftermarket? As the picture shows the factory original ball joints had a groove for a circlip/snap ring and the new Honda ball joints do not. My car was built in Japan and so are the ball joints I just installed. Only 20+ years separates their manufacture. It was happy motoring on my post repair test drive on a dark and stormy night.

[LX-incredible]

It's not necessary. I believe moog is the only aftermarket that has the groove and circlip.

Be sure to use an accurate torque wrench on the ball joints. Upper and tie rod end 32 ft/lbs, lower 40 ft/lbs. Excessive torque can destroy the bore in the lower control arm and spindle.

[Slvproj3]

I've recently replaced the lower balljoints and had the same issue. Regardless of the design, they are pressed into the knuckle. You can get one out by beating on it with a dead-blow mallet (with a large socket placed around the shaft), but you won't get a new one in without a hydraulic press. Have a machine shop R&R the joints; it will be about $40.

[Dr_Snooz]

I've recently replaced the lower balljoints and had the same issue. Regardless of the design, they are pressed into the knuckle. You can get one out by beating on it with a dead-blow mallet (with a large socket placed around the shaft), but you won't get a new one in without a hydraulic press. Have a machine shop R&R the joints; it will be about $40.

What if you just set the ball joints as far as you could, bolted it back together and then went driving real fast down a real bumpy road? That would work, right?

Right?

[car6289]

I am a machine shop. I removed the old ball joints with a dead blow
hammer and a large aluminum drift. I installed the new ball joints with
a vice and some odds and sods from a bushing driver kit. The only
hydraulics I used was the blood pumping through my arms as I
swung the hammer and tightened the vice.

LX-incredible thanks for the torque values. I actually, don't laugh,
bought the 1989 Honda service manual shortly after I bought my
present 89 LX back in 2002. For 11 years I muddled my way through
a Chilton manual trying to keep my 87 LX (RIP) on the road. I have
susequently downloaded the 1989 USDM Accord manual generously
provided by a 3geez member.

Dr_Snooz that is something like I actually did in this case. Wonders
never cease it all stayed together. Work it did!

[car6289]

Sometimes I subscribe to the theory of HOODS while doing car repairs.

[stat1K]

oh we won't laugh at you buying the manuals, i have 2 haynes for my civic and i don't even know where they came from, i'm sure lx-incredible has at least 2 of them two since i think i gave him mine when i sold him my car and i'm sure he had one too lol...

it's a good thing to have but now with the internet and the readily available information i just print it off the internet.

[car6289]

The small cost of a service manual, be it Chiltons or Hondas, has saved me a fortune in the almost two decades of 3g driving.
Honda used to have a slogan "Don't open your hood to strangers", anyone who attempts to rob me blind for auto servicing is no
friend of mine and will forever remain a stranger to what is under my hood. I'll still buy Honda parts, pricey as they are, but I will do the installation.
Three cheers for the internet!!

[import racer]

I changed both of them on my lx last year and they both had grooves and snap rings.I've changed other ones before and they had clips too.I use a socket and hammer to take them out,and to put them back in .No problem.