Originally Posted by
AccordEpicenter
Oem honda bearings are good, but pricey. King or acl are fine so long as the clearances are correct, sometimes one size fits all doesnt really work with rod and main bearings in these cars. Only use OEM honda engine seals and gaskets for critical areas, such as rear or front main seals or cam seals unless you want to replace them again. You can use B18a/b rods with aftermarket forged pistons but i would highly reccomend having the rod bolts replaced with somthing stronger, and having the rods shot peened to enhance their strength, but at this point, they are still stock rods, and eagle rods arent that much money (mine were like $350 with arp 2000 bolts) so you should just go for the new eagles for the peace of mind, this is a bad place to cheap out on such a critical part, plus they are already balanced i believe. I dont believe that cometic makes a headgasket for a20s, plus, stock honda headgaskets are just fine for boost, you just need to use head studs. I have a copper headgasket but im reluctant to use it, so im using a stock honda headgasket, and if you use headstuds, it should be quite a bit more than adequate for turbo engine use, even for these power levels. I use diamond forged pistons as well as a few members on here and ive never heard bad things about them, but any good piston manufacturer should be fine, nothing wrong with JE, CP, Wiseco etc. Me personally, talking with Ron at Diamond pistons, he really spent a good amount of time with me making sure of what i wanted for pistons, so ill go ahead and reccomend him. No on the gapless rings, they are just not tough enough for boost. The Toga oil pump is a good idea also, I wouldnt use an old oil pump for a performance built, although a new stock one would be fine also. With the crank, having the crank/crank pulley and flywheel all dynamically balanced together (and maybe rods) that will really help also, as well as lightly polishing the bearing journals. I would reccomend against knife edging the crank or having the journals ground down to fix a bad journal. Knife edging takes away from the mass of the crank and allows harmonics to eat away at the engine and bearings easier, and grinding the journals removes the factory nitride hardened coating on the crank and also makes the journals thinner and more fragile, so dont get nuts here. Just clean it up, have the oil holes chamfered slightly, and have it balanced. For the head, i guess it depends on what your power goals will be eventually. If you are going for just 280whp, a well thought out turbo kit on a stock head would do that much power and much more, without porting etc. If you want to go all out, then you could spend alot of money porting and putting oversized valves and all that, but you really should upgrade your intake manifold and throttle body before this anyway (a b16/b18c5 stock or aftermarket, such as skunk2 or aebs, avoid edelbrock victor unless your looking for a high revving dyno queen or racecar), and the head's intake side should be portmatched to the new intake mani combination or you could lose power. Heavily reworking the head can unlock a good amount of power, but if your top goals are only 280whp, it can be reached without spending alot of money here really. Aftermarket valves are a good idea if you really plan on running high boost for like 30000 miles, and stock springs and retainers are fine provided you dont spin the engine over around 7200 rpm. If you want to go to 8000 rpm, youd need springs/retainers/valves etc. Usually the valve guides are good so you dont nessescerily need to replace them, even on a 100k mile honda head, the seals however, are usually marginal. I guess it depends on how much power you want to make. Then to top it off, your going to have to design and build a decent turbo setup, complete with managemant and fuel upgrades, and probably have to make your own turbo mani.
Sorry that was long
SO for the haters just eat the grill the beef and eat it FOOLS
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