Whats the cheapest/yet not shittiest kit you guys could find?
Whats the cheapest/yet not shittiest kit you guys could find?
you don't really need a kit. just put it where you want it and lengthen the power then ground it somewhere sturdy nearby. make sure you retain the ground going from the transmission that went to the negative battery terminal. just ground it to a bolt in the bay so your starter is still grounded. you can pick up a marine battery box at wal mart for 6 bucks, get a 2 or 4 gauge sub wire from a local audio shop with enough wire to lengthen the power and create a new ground and some kind of distribution block to go where the battery was.
short of the long, do it yourself. i spend about 50 for everything.
i paid like 80 bucks from summit.com...not bad for a cheap kit...still havent done it tho...hahaOriginally Posted by SHENANIGANS
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
1. Get wire (2/4/6 gauge) (enough to relocate battery to where ever you want it)
2. Run power wire (Red) from alt to battery positive.
3. Route battery negative to solid body ground (ie: strut tower bolt)
Done!
Phil
Go to Wal-Mart or Canadian-Tire and get a marine battery box.
http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/brows...tery%2BBox.jsp
17 bucks and your trunk will be safe from fumes and spills.
You can route the box vent to the sunroof drain hole in the trunk for a clean install.
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
what gauge wire should i use? i dont know what to buy and i need a solid answer?
88 lxi:
shortram, msd blaster 2 coil, lowered 2.5" in the rear 3" in the front, stripped because race car XD
i used 0
if you aren't running a big stereo, you can run 2 gauge, thats plenty for these cars, you NEED a breaker right at the battery, don't skip this, and don't go cheap, a short will burn your car to the ground faster then you think, you need to tie the alternator to the starter lug,, and the alternator needs to be fused between the power cable, and alternator, the reason for this, is even if a battery breaker blows, the alternator is still putting enough current into that same cable to feed a short. I've said it a hundred times about the box, those marine boxes are NOT safe, the battery needs to be physically bolted to the car body, not strapped, not bungee corded, but bolted down solidly!! people have been KILLED by flying batteries in wrecks, you have a 40 pound object that is going to fly at you with tremendous force in a wreck. the fold down seats WILL NOT stop it, I wish to God I could find that fifth gear episode where they did this in a wreck, put a toolbox in the trunk that didn't even weigh the same as a battery, it came right through the seat back, and decapitated the dummy, in a 25 MPH wreck. your battery will do this, and throw acid all over you in a wreck. I highly recommend using an AGM battery, Odyssey or one like it, there is no free acid in the battery, and they don't out gas in anyway among other reasons
4guage will be fine if you dont have a huge sound system
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
you are going to lose so much current trying to crank a car with 4 gauge, it will never turn over in cold weather. 4 gauge is fine for the battery cables to the breaker, but you lose a lot of current over a long run, 4 gauge will handle the current, but it has too much loss, I have four gauge for my positive and ground right off of the battery, due to the bends needed, but I run 2 all the way to the front, the reason for that is lower resistance
^^ i need you to redo my batt relocation kit..
OK I found it!! THIS is why you don't put a battery in the back of a car, held with bungee cords or tie down straps, In this fifth gear episode, these are all low speed crash, do you really think a bungee cord is going to hold a 40 pound battery? It doesn't specifically show the battery one, but you'll get the idea. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NwO5ZASY994 edit" youtube appears to be down at the second
woooops never mind read it wrong
3g sedan seat latch is much stronger then that, not saying it cant happen but its less of a chance lol
i would just bolt one of thoses plastic boxs in then bolt a tie down bar over the top of battery and thru the frame, wouldn't go anywhere
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
that toolbox in a 40 g deceleration, weighs more then half a ton, an average battery would be closer to 3/4 of a ton in a deceleration like that, don't kid yourself that the little latches in the three g are going to stop that. And it's not a LOL thing, nothing funny about it, kids who have moved their batteries like that have been decapitated by them, it''s happened before, it will happen again. CAH you have no idea of the forces involved in a collision do you? DO NOT cheap out mounting a battery in the back.
if the battery has a steal bar going over the top with long bolts on each side going down to the frame id like to see it move... thats like saying the bumper is going to fly off because its only had on by 2 12mm studs
i know the force is much stronger when in a accident and people that dont bolt it down thru the frame are idiots but if its properly bolted down its not going to rip the frame out lol
btw i know danger, my car is dangerous enough as it is im sure if my 6x9s were to fly out in a accident it would hurt or kill or if my loose seatbelts were to snap off i would fly thru the windshield my spare tire with no hold down etc,
(note im getting thoses things fixed slowly but surely one thing at a time lol seat belts geting replaced next time i go to junkyard, 6x9 will get bolted in as soon as i find the damn nuts for it spare tire as well i got thoses parts just cant find them anywhere >< tho im just going to take the spare out anyway lol dont have a jack and the lip on the donut is completely rusted out )
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
I'm talking about people here who have bungee cords and rubber straps holding down their batteries in the trunk, not going to mention names but i saw some really dangerous stuff. my odyssey is held in the battery box on the floor behind the passenger seat, the 3/4 thick aircraft aluminum bars that locate the battery are bolted through the floor pan with 5/16 hardened bolts, they go right through the box and through the floor pan, then there are hardened large washers under the floor pan, the battery tie down screws into the aluminum bars, six heavy bolts in total holding the box to the floor, it's not moving. I just see so many bad battery relocation's, it's not just if you get in a wreck, it's the energy stored in the battery and what it can do in an unprotected short with a heavy cable. Also I see regular lead acid batteries with no vents in unsealed boxes, this is the result of an unsealed battery explosion ,the resulting fire destroyed the car http://www.cleanmpg.com/photos/data/..._left_side.jpg
well people that use a bunji cord need to be slapped upside the head, im just saying the plastic box is safe if u have a bar going over the top of the battery with thick bolts going to the floor board, and of course have a vent running from the box to a hole in the body
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
4 gauge will be just fine your not looseing ANYTHING within the 14 or less feet it travels just be sure to have a nice ground made of atleast the same size wire, also as noted adding an inline fuse is a must.
on the tie down part theres a simple fix the stock tie down is removable it can be unbolted and set inside the plastic box noted above, drill holes matching the old bolts and bolt it into your trunk, from there you can use a proper tie down wich you should allready have (if not there a dime a dozzen at junk yards and cost about 9 bucks new. this will give the same if not better bolt down then every aftermarket kit box on the market
If you are going to bolt it in the car, I would use something a little stronger then the factory hold down, it's designed to keep the battery from rattling around, not keep it in place during a wreck.
Does anyone have a diagram or pic of a battery relocate setup,I can't find a distribution block to tie in the cable to the back.
go to my build thread. I have a picture of the fused block I used when I did my relocation. I'm on my phone posting this otherwise I'd post up the link.
I would go back and watch the fifth gear episode a few posts back, then decide, Do I want cheap hardware holding down this battery? is my life worth it? or do I want the 2.99 hold downs? as a matter of fact here's the video again, just image a 40 pound plastic box full of sulfuric acid hurtling through your back seats and straight towards you. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NwO5ZASY994
the factory ones do more then keep it from "rattleing around" in a crash they hold it in place still becuse there ment to keep more problems happening after a crash, sparking batts can cause a large problem after a crash and can ignite.
not to mention you keep saying how a 40 lb batt could kill you flying threw the air, well if you have hit something hard enough to send a 40 lb batt to break threw steal tie downs, a plastic batt box, the back of a seat and 8 feet into your skull then you probably have other problems on your hand as a normal persons body weighs 135-190 lbs and if a 40 lb batt can move that much amagine whats left of your body.
also not mentioning the fact that the angle of aproch would have to be perfect, most people mount the batts in the spair tire wheel well or way off to the side were the rear strut tower is in the way, so the flying batt would have to make a 45 degree turn in mid air
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