quick answer - not entirely - im in process of it right now. still building my ms3 and makeing my mounting brackets for the edis conversionOriginally Posted by Vanilla Sky
quick answer - not entirely - im in process of it right now. still building my ms3 and makeing my mounting brackets for the edis conversion
88 - Hatch - FF class track car Major Upgrades!
87 - Hatch - DD
88 rx7 turbo II - FR class track car - blown engine
86 rx7 NA - Under Construction
90 240 hatch - SOLD
oh and i am working on editing the msnes software to use oem sensors insted of the gm sensors it is calibrated for. (ill let you know how that works out lol)
88 - Hatch - FF class track car Major Upgrades!
87 - Hatch - DD
88 rx7 turbo II - FR class track car - blown engine
86 rx7 NA - Under Construction
90 240 hatch - SOLD
Talk to Cygnus x-1, he squirts and he's got a real helpful attitude, IMO.
I've talked to him a bit, but it's always helpful to have multiple sources of data. At this point, I'm not sure I can work MS into my budget.
I havent talked to him directly but I have stumbled across many posts of his, and they arent all on this website dont let Cygnus x-1 fool you he is a really smart guy. An excelent source of information.
88 - Hatch - FF class track car Major Upgrades!
87 - Hatch - DD
88 rx7 turbo II - FR class track car - blown engine
86 rx7 NA - Under Construction
90 240 hatch - SOLD
so what do u think would be the best carb to use like a 650 or 750 or what ?
A 650 is more carb than you really need, but if you're going with carbs, go with a pair of Weber DCOE45 carbs. You can purchase a manifold from 2old_honda that makes them a direct bolt on. If you're going megasquirt, you don't need a carb, you need the fuel injection parts.
can u attach a link for that web site
89dx user
At this point, I think you need to start doing some research of your own. There's plenty of information about DCOEs on this site.
Here is some pics of the engine about two weeks ago started taking off all the removeable parts on the engine.
me workin on my baby =)
89dx user
Good start.
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=69917 That's the manifold you need. Buy a pair of DCOE45s from Redline Weber, a jet kit, and a Weber manual and you'll be set.
You may also want to PM member rjudgey about a DCOE setup, at least to get base jettings.
BTW, those radioactive orange Fram filters aren't good filters. You're better off buying a Napa Gold or Wix filter, which are the same filter, or a Purolator. I use the latter on everything I drive and haven't had problems at all.
got the engine tore down and this is what i found tryin to find out if they are factory?
here is the piston it doesnt look factory cause it has two exhaust valve relifs but im not sure
Here is the rod and the numbers on it, is it factory
89dx user
yeah that looks factory to me. I think it used 2 exhaust cut outs so that they could use the same piston for cylinders 1 and 2 as they did for 3 and 4.
best of luck with your build
Smeado
Yup, 20 year old factory pistons there.
what do the numbers on the side of the piston mean because 1,3,and4 have the same number fh13 but #2 piston has fh22?
89dx user
Whoa, was that a typo or did you really mean MS3? MS3 is still in beta testing, so if you did get a beta version that's way cool! Not that the older ones aren't cool as well.
Should be no problem to use the stock sensors. I have the values for the stock IAT if you need them. I'm using the GM coolant sensor though so I don't have those off hand.
I would guess those are just some sort of casting identifiers. Like maybe a batch number or date code.
C|
Casting numbers i imagine. Its possible that piston #2 has been changed?
yea i think that the egine has been rebuilt or maybe not origianl ill have to check the numbers but my bro looked at it and said it def doesnt have 180000 miles on it so thats good to know i got a good engine.
89dx user
Our engines don't wear much in normal use. We've seen 250,000 mile A20 engines that looked like 50,000 mile A20 engines. You can't go on looks alone with these motors.
what benifit would i get if i bored it out?
89dx user
Not much really. Over boring will increase the compression ratio very slightly but not enough to be worthwhile. If the cylinders are out of spec (out of round, tapered, too much cylinder to cylinder variation, etc.) then they need to be bored. Otherwise they just need to be honed to created the cross hatch marks for proper ring wear in.
Your machine shop will be able to tell you if the block needs boring. If it doesn't, save the money for something else, like balancing the pistons and rods or lightening the flywheel.
C|
Last edited by cygnus x-1; 11-12-2009 at 11:43 AM.
I agree. Only overbore if your block requires it. Have your rotating assembly balanced instead. If you get the rotating assembly balanced, you'll have smoother revving, fewer internal losses, and a potentially higher redline. The only thing you'd need to rev a lot high would be better valve springs. Those can be had from Bisimoto.
OMG MS3 that is one hell of a typo LOL its a msI 3.0 board. good lord i need to pay attention.Whoa, was that a typo or did you really mean MS3? MS3 is still in beta testing, so if you did get a beta version that's way cool! Not that the older ones aren't cool as well.
Should be no problem to use the stock sensors. I have the values for the stock IAT if you need them. I'm using the GM coolant sensor though so I don't have those off hand.
I would guess those are just some sort of casting identifiers. Like maybe a batch number or date code.
C|
If you have the IAt sensor calibraton on hand that would be great if you could give me the numbers!! I have the calibration numbers for the coolant temp sensor.
88 - Hatch - FF class track car Major Upgrades!
87 - Hatch - DD
88 rx7 turbo II - FR class track car - blown engine
86 rx7 NA - Under Construction
90 240 hatch - SOLD
do they make valve springs for our engines?
89dx user
yes
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