h20 or k20

[hafizi01]

You don't have to change out the head to convert the a20 to FI. There's many threads about that on here, Use the search. I think your getting in over your head with the LSvtec, you can't swap any vtec heads onto the a20 block. Like I said the step to doing any swap into a carved a20 3g is to convert the car to FI. Otherwise ur not going anywhere.

there r diffs when we go to the workshop once or twice, n to have the mechanics do once for all or step by step. the diffs r costing of money. btw, the idea is to use all the intake, head assemble, and complete wiring of b16a.
so this will eliminate the twin carbs, put in the FI.
also, tanks n fuel rail will be taken out to give a space to lude's b20a tank n fuel rail.
this is where the question comes out, could a b16a head fit in as well? if and only if b16a's head can fit on jdm b18a's block, the case is settled.

[Legend_master]

there r diffs when we go to the workshop once or twice, n to have the mechanics do once for all or step by step. the diffs r costing of money. btw, the idea is to use all the intake, head assemble, and complete wiring of b16a.
so this will eliminate the twin carbs, put in the FI.
also, tanks n fuel rail will be taken out to give a space to lude's b20a tank n fuel rail.
this is where the question comes out, could a b16a head fit in as well? if and only if b16a's head can fit on jdm b18a's block, the case is settled.

Well when u find that block, and drop the cash on a b16 head assembly let me know if it works. Sounds like a pipe dream, and way to much work compared just swapping a full b-series in there. Hell what do I, or anybody else on 3geez know it's not like we are experts on this car or anything .

[OldSkoolA20accord]

shave the crank pulley, put r1 carbs on it and a cam regrind. bore it .20 over, raise the compression and do direct port nitrous and call her a day. That was my build before i sold my 88 accord hatch and bought a EF hatch that i LS swapped.


and shit its been about 6 months since i posted on here. lol

[OldSkoolA20accord]

and you can LS vtec the b18a1/b1 or the b20b/z. thats called CRVtec

[JohnBoy]

Quote:
Originally Posted by accordion89
lol

sick lil jetta i bet that thing is fast
__________________
that VW is redic.

[Edison Carasio]

I've researched the LSVTEC conversion, and with all the machine work, it's cheaper to just buy a DOHC VTEC B series.

And to the original poster, don't bother swapping a fuel injected engine into a carb'd car. Sell your current car and buy a Accord LX-i since it will be fuel injected already. That's my plan.

The Innovative mounts run about $350 to do a B swap. I wouldn't bother with the H22 and the K20 will be in your dreams. I'd recommend a B18A1 from a 90-91 Integra (any later than 92 should be OBD 1 rather than OBD 0 I think, but don't quote me) in the junk yard, get the wiring harness and ECU. Then you will have to have a shop custom make your axles and shift linkage. I'd also let a shop do the wiring for you. To save some money and time, buy the LS non-VTEC engine, ECU and Harness. Put the engine in with the mounts in your garage, get the axles and linkage custom made, then go to a good performance shop and pay them butt loads of money to wire the car up for you. Will probably cost like $3k at least, and will result in MAYBE 40 HP and 25 lbs. TQ in your car. A JDM B16A would get you about 20 more HP, but requires additional wiring work due to the VTEC going into a non VTEC engine. All of this can be said for the H22 swap, but with a much higher price tag. Maybe $5000 or more? I dunno.

Also, no matter what engine you put in, you're gonna have to upgrade the suspension to handle the extra weight and the braking to handle the extra power. Would have to salvage calipers, lines, and master cylinder to do a rear disc conservsion and then upgrade your front rotors and pads.

[stat1K]

^ all of this makes sense except for two things, there is literally one thing you have to tap on an ls-vtec conversion and it can be done in ones garage... seen it done, have numerous friends with the setup. 1.8 w/ vtec head is a lot stronger with a lot more room for improvement than a b16 or as you put "dohc v-tec b-series."

also you're saying that you have to upgrade the suspension because of the weight, you clearly don't understand what is in the 3g accord. it's not a d-series motor, the a20a3 is one of the heaviest four cylinders i've ever had the pleasure of attempting to carry, it's definitely heavier than any b/h/k swap even with an auto trans.



oh and a 3rd point, paynig a shop for wiring is a waste of money, also wiring vtec is 2 wires... if you have to wire a whole swap 2 more wires for vtec isn't really a concern, especially since no one makes a plug and play conversion for the accord. i wouldn't ever pay a shop for soldering wires, it's not hard, time consuming yes if you do it right but certainly not worth paying "butt loads of money" for.

[Edison Carasio]

^ all of this makes sense except for two things, there is literally one thing you have to tap on an ls-vtec conversion and it can be done in ones garage... seen it done, have numerous friends with the setup. 1.8 w/ vtec head is a lot stronger with a lot more room for improvement than a b16 or as you put "dohc v-tec b-series."

My mistake. I reread the how to I have, and I was mistaken. It's easier than I recalled. My walk through was written by Aaron Bonk, who's authored a few books on Honda swaps and Honda Tuning. And I specified "DOHC B series VTEC" instead of saying B20 or B16 since around here that normally refers to the DOHC non-VTEC B20 found in JDM Accords which is B series in name only, as it's not compatible with any other B series parts. Trying to avoid confusion.

also you're saying that you have to upgrade the suspension because of the weight, you clearly don't understand what is in the 3g accord. it's not a d-series motor, the a20a3 is one of the heaviest four cylinders i've ever had the pleasure of attempting to carry, it's definitely heavier than any b/h/k swap even with an auto trans.

I would still upgrade suspension seeing as how the car is probably going to be hitting curves much faster than it normally would have under A-series conditions. Just my logic, maybe I'm wrong. I guess I would personally upgrade the shocks and springs, even if the swap wouldn't require it. If I'm spending tons of cash on putting a beefy engine in the car, I'm more than willing to pony up a little more to get rid of some dusty 20 year old springs that are probably sagging anyway. Anyway, just what I would do (not everyone's stance on it)

oh and a 3rd point, paynig a shop for wiring is a waste of money, also wiring vtec is 2 wires... if you have to wire a whole swap 2 more wires for vtec isn't really a concern, especially since no one makes a plug and play conversion for the accord. i wouldn't ever pay a shop for soldering wires, it's not hard, time consuming yes if you do it right but certainly not worth paying "butt loads of money" for.

I agree with you, but judging from the nature of the thread, the OP seems to not grasp the deep complexity of a H or K swap in a CA5 Accord. Thus, I was working from the stand point that they would not understand the complexity of wiring an engine into a car 20+ years older than it, not to mention that he's talking about going K20 into a carb'd car. So from the stand point of OP's conceived lack of understanding, I would recommend letting a pro handle most of this swap. To someone who has swapped lots of engines themselves, then I would tell that person to sit down at their work bench with the harnesses, soldering gun, tape and pen/paper and start mapping things out.

[alberto]

so let me get this straith if I got A junk accident from the back total reack I could shop it up and will still cost money but not 5g's but I say only 3 for the car abouth 3-6 month's in time and 1g in extras like custumes that I would haf to make frome scrach coss I would love to make a K20 to fit in my 88.