everything is worn out

[79cord]

Will check out '78 when possible...
If you wanted Electronic there's also an '81 Auto sedan there but Automatics had a slightly different distributor... & a few Preludes & early 2nd gen Accord? Don't forget the Rover Quintet either since we got them '83-85 with the 2nd gen EL engines... I imagine they should work readily too.

[tomatofiasco]

eek well repco cant help at all this time it seems, beyond sending it to be reconditioned which at $400, is out of the question. they even suggested i scour the internet

so that would be great if you could look at that car 79cord

people who have old parts that look a bit like distributors, now is your hour! its a HITACHI thingie with these numbers on the body above the attachment / adjustment slotted tab:

D413 - 98
 707     (ISO)

otherwise i can get the electronic bits from Hondaworld on the mainland, probably to my wrack and ruin

[79cord]

Might be Monday before I can look; sorting out another silly Honda Z360 Hardtop purchase... Purple...Great fun 7300rpm in top @ 100km/h!
& hopefully Ballarat Swap meet Fri & Saturday.... LOTS of walking to do there, not many Honda cars likely but need half a Honda CT90/CT110.

[79cord]

The '78 at the wreckers felt like it had a little bit of movement in its distributor... & would have been $30.

[tomatofiasco]

hmm, a little as in rattly, or just a little bit of play?

i haven't been able to locate anything else online [or otherwise] so with a bit of grease it might be the best option

a few days ago i had new tyres fitted and an alignment done. it was found to be "way out" and now the car grips and responds much better and doesn't veer left either the wheel shake is gone too!

i will take my distributor out, wobble it about some more and get back to you, thanks very much for looking 79cord!

[tomatofiasco]

double post bump of EXCITEMENT



ebay dizzy!

i found this on ebay, its a remanufactured distributor, and it looks right! - no ignition module plug, no double-acting vac diaphragm like on auto models... whats the catch? does it look like a good idea?

[2ndGenGuy]

I say go for it. I think the only reason it's so cheap is the only people taking care of their cars is us. Which is quite small market.

[tomatofiasco]

awesome, who else wants one? there are 8 available, for under $30 AUSSIE for 2 more days, that is.

EDIT: sweet, ordered. i went and measured the dimensions and weight of my distributor, it should fit in a USPS flat rate envelope should it not? weight is only 2lb / 1kg inc. the cap

i also had a further look at and wobble of the drive shaft from the pinion end, and the movement is only slight and doesn't seem that bad. but there is oil near the points, and a bit of red dust. the most worn part is the little cam and the plastic follower on the points arm - looks dry and rough and uneven. the contacts are sitting at an uncomfortable angle too, so i guess it really could all do with replacing.

so far, its looking a lot better than my mates '92 prelude - $700AU to replace his distributor, from the reputable garage my mum and brother take their cars to!

[tomatofiasco]

help! well, advice: i measured and weighed it, and it should fit in a flat rate envelope, or classify as a small packet weighing 36oz or under.

the seller has quoted me $60+ for priority mail, which is twice the cost of the item and 3 times the cost of worldwide delivery for either a small packet or a flat rate envelope.

is this a huge ripoff?

[1GCustomAccord]

help! well, advice: i measured and weighed it, and it should fit in a flat rate envelope, or classify as a small packet weighing 36oz or under.

the seller has quoted me $60+ for priority mail, which is twice the cost of the item and 3 times the cost of worldwide delivery for either a small packet or a flat rate envelope.

is this a huge ripoff?

Well, from my point of view, its still cheap, i dont have the points type ones, but have the electronic ignition ones, complete with rotor and cap, and sold the last one for U$D 190 to Argentina.

Here is the pictures, 3 left. ( Well, 2 because one is going to my car )









Aren´t new Honda parts beautiful??

**EDIT**: My parts are NEW, of course that a remanufactured one can be found cheaper, take that on count.

[tomatofiasco]

they certainly are pretty man and i hope to have some of my own soon... ish.

im going to give it another day and then i suppose i'll just pay what hes asking and get on with it. i sent him a message explaining my hesitation, so far i haven't got a reply. if i do pay and he sends it via UPS after all, that'll be ok. but if it takes 6 weeks and arrives with USPS written on it anywhere i shall become upset.



and at the same time, i am dumb enough to be tempted to buy these valve stem seals:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

do these things vary a lot in their performance? i just want something that works like the originals did before they wore out, no extreme silicone high RPM racing parts. think they'll do the job?

[79cord]

and at the same time, i am dumb enough to be tempted to buy these valve stem seals:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...=STRK:MEWAX:IT

Sounds good to me!
$ 42 when I bought some from Bursons!
For a second I forgot you had the '81 engine fitted.

[tomatofiasco]

hurrah i bought them! both the valve seals and the dizzy! i was just going to get the seals and deal with the dizzy in the morning [bed time now] but when i looked at it, he'd commuted the shipping charge by $15. still no response to my message though

so i thought, if it escalates or more likely he just cancels the purchase, i'll have to buy it from him at the usual price of $48 US instead of the $25 sale price, sine hes the only one selling what i need T___T

so i hope the seals turn out to be ok also, i have a leaky, squeeky clutch master. i think the cup is worn and / or torn. i saw a number of replacements on ebay but none with reasonable shipping, and besides i probably only need one part. maybe i should try to mix and match, possibly with that of a similar master cylinder...

[tomatofiasco]

dizzy has landed!










i haven't put it in yet, but it looks correct the number on the side is slightly different i think, D414 perhaps, but hard to read because of the surface.

its made by ARROW, on the 2nd of the 12th, 1992

i'll try it out on the weekend. still waiting on the valve guide seals...

[1GCustomAccord]

dizzy has landed!

i haven't put it in yet, but it looks correct the number on the side is slightly different i think, D414 perhaps, but hard to read because of the surface.

its made by ARROW, on the 2nd of the 12th, 1992

i'll try it out on the weekend. still waiting on the valve guide seals...

Nice dizzy, congrats!

[tomatofiasco]

or so i thought!

so i'm still having problems with this... all was okay for a couple of days, and then the timing needed adjusting over and over again. a 30km drive was enough to go from running strongly to idling low and being well down on power.

the timing mark on the flywheel got more and more erratic in its alignment too. at the moment i think its set correctly, at about 6 degrees BTDC. but the car is running pretty badly - idling like a ported rotary, super heavy duty stumbling, and misfiring through most of the normal rev range, which turns into lurching when you try to accelerate out of it. other than that its fine, starting straight away and not losing oil or coolant, running at the right temperature and pulling well when its not coughing and shuddering. i just checked the compression, which was about "145psi" [old gauge] on all cylinders, and the plug gaps are correct and i tightened all the coil connections too.

my guess was that something was out of alignment in the distributor, and the spark wasn't being triggered by the points or wasn't making it from the rotor to the cap terminals. what can be adjusted in there, and how? does anyone know why this might be happening? i know 2ndgenguy got very frustrated with distributors and eventually deleted his

[1GCustomAccord]

or so i thought!

so i'm still having problems with this... all was okay for a couple of days, and then the timing needed adjusting over and over again. a 30km drive was enough to go from running strongly to idling low and being well down on power.

the timing mark on the flywheel got more and more erratic in its alignment too. at the moment i think its set correctly, at about 6 degrees BTDC. but the car is running pretty badly - idling like a ported rotary, super heavy duty stumbling, and misfiring through most of the normal rev range, which turns into lurching when you try to accelerate out of it. other than that its fine, starting straight away and not losing oil or coolant, running at the right temperature and pulling well when its not coughing and shuddering. i just checked the compression, which was about "145psi" [old gauge] on all cylinders, and the plug gaps are correct and i tightened all the coil connections too.

my guess was that something was out of alignment in the distributor, and the spark wasn't being triggered by the points or wasn't making it from the rotor to the cap terminals. what can be adjusted in there, and how? does anyone know why this might be happening? i know 2ndgenguy got very frustrated with distributors and eventually deleted his

Points distributors...hate them.
First check the points gap, 0.4 mm aprox, if that is correct then is a false contact in the dist or cable, use a ohmeter between the engine ground and the out line from the dist (disconnected from the coil) and check the readings with the breaker opened and closed, to look for false contacts, moving everything so you can find that false.
Also check the + feeding to the coil, and plugs wires, with the ohmeter you can check if they are ok, under 25000 OHMS is correct, if more than that, replace the things.
But i bet that is the breaker gap too small, maybe you need to lubricate the rotating edge for the breaker as a bad lubricated edge will cause the points gap to get smaller and smaller.

[tomatofiasco]

oh my god, so i took the distributor out again and checkd\ed the gap, and there was barely one at all. clearly this was wrong so i figured out how to adjust it and check it with feeler gauges. then i attached a protractor to the rotor and checked the dwell angle, adjusted the points a bit closer [.43mm] and put it back in the car... and it worked! joy of joys and thankyou

so i went for a drive around the hilly streets of my area of the city and i was just coming back, thinking how amazing it was not to have a hint of hesitation at any load, revs, throttle or temperature, and waiting to turn right from a turning-only lane... and i coughs, sputters and stalls. i hell couldn't get it going again either! the people behind me were beeping and honking thier opinions of the situation and the engine was utterly without life. the lights went red again and people walked across the crossing laughing at me the guy behind me looked like Oscar the grouch.

then i got it running again, and had an agonising 3 second wait till the lights went green. the truck opposite me had been watching and let me lead out across his path, what a lifesaver. i managed to stammer and huff up a short hill, round a round-about and back to my street, where it promptly game up the ghost again. steam was issuing forth and when i opened the bonnet, the distributor was soaked. actually, everything was soaked with neon green coolant, and the little joiner hose near the thermostat was peeing from a little split, directly at the distributor. so i am guessing this here is my problem. i hate roadside repairs and it looks like im going to be doing some

[1GCustomAccord]

oh my god, so i took the distributor out again and checkd\ed the gap, and there was barely one at all. clearly this was wrong so i figured out how to adjust it and check it with feeler gauges. then i attached a protractor to the rotor and checked the dwell angle, adjusted the points a bit closer [.43mm] and put it back in the car... and it worked! joy of joys and thankyou

so i went for a drive around the hilly streets of my area of the city and i was just coming back, thinking how amazing it was not to have a hint of hesitation at any load, revs, throttle or temperature, and waiting to turn right from a turning-only lane... and i coughs, sputters and stalls. i hell couldn't get it going again either! the people behind me were beeping and honking thier opinions of the situation and the engine was utterly without life. the lights went red again and people walked across the crossing laughing at me the guy behind me looked like Oscar the grouch.

then i got it running again, and had an agonising 3 second wait till the lights went green. the truck opposite me had been watching and let me lead out across his path, what a lifesaver. i managed to stammer and huff up a short hill, round a round-about and back to my street, where it promptly game up the ghost again. steam was issuing forth and when i opened the bonnet, the distributor was soaked. actually, everything was soaked with neon green coolant, and the little joiner hose near the thermostat was peeing from a little split, directly at the distributor. so i am guessing this here is my problem. i hate roadside repairs and it looks like im going to be doing some

Lol, one thing fixed and another thing breaks. Glad to see that your dist is fixed, but dont forget to apply a little bit of grease to the lever, the friction is the cause of the gap getting smaller. Also, there is a kind of spounge in the edge, you can see it by taking out the rotor. Apply a couple drops of oil to that thing.

[tomatofiasco]

fixed the water leak too and we've been everywhere recently, up and down the highway and around town and rusty is whizzing along perfectly its great.

by sponge, do you mean the clump of hairy stuff wedged in the top of the spindle underneath the rotor? i thought it was just a stand-in for the rubber cup-shaped plug that the original has there...

the cam and follower came well-greased out of the box, so i just spread that back against the surfaces and left it alone

[1GCustomAccord]

fixed the water leak too and we've been everywhere recently, up and down the highway and around town and rusty is whizzing along perfectly its great.

by sponge, do you mean the clump of hairy stuff wedged in the top of the spindle underneath the rotor? i thought it was just a stand-in for the rubber cup-shaped plug that the original has there...

the cam and follower came well-greased out of the box, so i just spread that back against the surfaces and left it alone

Yeah, if the thing came with a rubber cup, then is pre lubrified, if came with a hairy thing, this is to add a few drops of oil every 10000Km or so. That will keep your centrifugal advance from getting stuck.