How much would it cost to shave my moulding on my 1989 honda accord?
How much would it cost to shave my moulding on my 1989 honda accord?
Well, it all depends on how much you do yourself.. You need a welder, some sheet metal & some body work abilities. Since your a newbie, I don't know if you have seen what is involved. Click here to get the idea of the processes to do it.Originally Posted by steven d
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Hey my friend. Some time next week I'm going to the painter and getting an estimate. I'm going shave the emblems myself it's not too terribly hard. The handles and the lines are getting shaved. I'm also getting the body kit molded into the fenders. I don't know everything that you are wanting to get done but, I'll tell you how much I was quoted for all of that.
For Sale:
T3/T4 Turbo, wastegate, and BOV
P75 ECU
Untouched Head
Port & Polished, 5-angle valve job, bowl and swirl job, Head -$1000 invested in machining alone
Misc.
DDR Pad and DDR Extreme
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Needed:
Dremel
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weld it, OR.............. buy some body filler (bondo or the like) and sand and prep well, then just fill it all in. I know some people here have done it that way too.
damn, thatd be a shit load of bondo, lol
Kevin
Not to hate on you or anything but, the few people I know that have done that said absolutely do not do it. I live in Houston and the bondo will start to crack from the heat which will ruin the nice paint job. You can do it that way but, you're gonna be screwed later (most likely). Weld it all the way!
For Sale:
T3/T4 Turbo, wastegate, and BOV
P75 ECU
Untouched Head
Port & Polished, 5-angle valve job, bowl and swirl job, Head -$1000 invested in machining alone
Misc.
DDR Pad and DDR Extreme
PS1
NES
Needed:
Dremel
Money
Hey just got back from the body shop. It's one of the best shops in Houston from what I have heard. Autocraft is the name for all of you H-Town dwellers. It's gonna cost $3800 for everything. That's getting the car painted including the door jambs and trunk lid and sides. I'm getting the door handles shaved along with the emblems and side panels. I'm also getting the body kit molded into the quarters. Along with all of that I'm getting a "mock" candy apple red (ppg). Pretty good price for quality work. So, hope that helps!
For Sale:
T3/T4 Turbo, wastegate, and BOV
P75 ECU
Untouched Head
Port & Polished, 5-angle valve job, bowl and swirl job, Head -$1000 invested in machining alone
Misc.
DDR Pad and DDR Extreme
PS1
NES
Needed:
Dremel
Money
3800 isnt too bad for all that work. Body work is diffenent anywhere you go and you're always going to get a different price. Best option is just to shop around. But remember, you ALWAYS get what you pay for when it comes to body work. Get a cheap price, you'll get cheap work.
Nothin' 2 Old Racing
Yup I totally agree and like I said this guy does hella quality work. I knew when I walked in and he had autorama Best of Show plaques all around his office.Plus this guys work is great! Now I just have to decide on a color!
Thinking of a "mock" Candy apple red (I have maroon interior. I hate it but, don't want to have to replace it.) Or like a black or blue.
Not sure if the skyline blue will match with the maroon.
Then I thought about going like White with CF hood and black or white rims. JDM yo!
For Sale:
T3/T4 Turbo, wastegate, and BOV
P75 ECU
Untouched Head
Port & Polished, 5-angle valve job, bowl and swirl job, Head -$1000 invested in machining alone
Misc.
DDR Pad and DDR Extreme
PS1
NES
Needed:
Dremel
Money
i wanna know how to remove them without breakin them so i can paint the panel underneath it and also to paint the moldings. i dont want to break anything that holds them so how would i go about to remove them without breakin anything???
Yeah, I like my body molding and if I did trim them, I would weld them (but I hear that it can warp the sheet metal on our cars).
On the doors, you need to remove the screw that holds it in place (need the back edge) and then you push the stud out so that it clears the hole, then you slide the molding back off of the door. For the fenders you have to get behind and pop the clips (most effective way I have found), and on the four doors, the little part behind the back doors is next to impossible to remove in one piece. I finally got a relpacement piece for the one on my driver side and I only got it because the car at the J/Y was rusted almost all the way through back there. Im not sure for coupes and hatches how you get the body panel trim off, I never needed to find out on my hatch.
Im working on shaving the trim right now. Pull the trim off and then use a dent puller to raise the indentation as flush as you can. Then come threw with Bondo-Glass. Sand, and repeat. 2 coats of bondo-glass and 2 or 3 coats of regular bondo, sand and paint I have 1 rear quarter done and finding time between 40hrs a week at NTB and 35hrs a week at UTI. Life is fucking busy... little by little its coming along though.
If you can't get it welded i would suggest fiberglass cloth.Bodyfill will not last,it's not meant to be put on that thick.Try drywall fiber tape over the spot were the molding was fisrt to keep it from sinking in,that way you use less fill over top.
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