riddle: what do an airplane nosewheel fork, a power door lock switch, and a mirror switch from a 98 civic have in common?
answer in a few minutes.
riddle: what do an airplane nosewheel fork, a power door lock switch, and a mirror switch from a 98 civic have in common?
answer in a few minutes.
answer: I've been trying to figure out a way to mount the power door lock switch, and the switch to control functions on the stereo for a while. At the same time i've been kicking an old nose gear fork around in my living room, yea I know, only me right? well the two came together finally
It's not in the exact position it will be in when finished, the holes in this one are in the wrong position, I need to go to get another console from Bivens tomorrow, the switch is from a power window switch for a three g, it's for the power door locks, the mirror switch is for controlling eight functions of the stereo, I need eight subminature relays yet to finish that and to take the original remote apart. the switch will be flat black to match everything else.
Last edited by lostforawhile; 01-11-2010 at 04:11 PM.
Please use the standard format for project threads in here similar to what everyone else is doing. Username - vehicle description - project description.
I'm having a hell of a time with your threads in here.
- Joe
I'm using the alarm to control the door locks, if you use a factory switch like this, you remove the center connecting strip, you can see it in the picture, then the center terminal goes to ground, and one terminal is lock, and the other is unlock, the terminals on the other side are unused.
this is the factory latch with the motor on it, you can see the clearance problem with the hatch doors, there is a notch in the door beam on cars with power door locks. the hatch backs don't have the notch.
you can see how the linkage between motor and door works
this is the door lock actuators i'm putting in, these are really easy to find.
Wait. Are you saying you are getting power door locks in a hatch/coupe???? If so, you are truly the man. I'm getting all excited-like just thinking about it.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
it's easy, i'm going to the rear metal door handles from the back doors on a sedan, no lock holes, you just need a rod to snap into the little lever that comes from the factory door locks, i'll modify a factory one with the rod from the actuators. these actuators are small and mount really easyOriginally Posted by Dr_Snooz
Last edited by lostforawhile; 01-12-2010 at 03:12 PM.
Ok some more done on this console, I'm aggravated because I need to raise the entire center console assembly, and armrest a 1/4 inch to clear the one switch. two brackets are easy, just spacers to raise them, the one under the dash is going to be a pain in the ass. I redesigned the switch console I had in the center console. the anti collision light switch goes to the side markers, the navigation light switch goes to my rare factory parking lamps, and the boost pump switch to the boost fuel pump. the other switch is actually a power window lockout switch from a three g, it's for the courtesy lamp under my arm rest. I need to get some more socket head screws, and the panel will be flat black of course. It's too late to run the dremel, but tomorrow i'll finish out the opening in the center console. I cut it with a small keyhole saw, and i'll finish it up with a rotary cutter. This piece looks deceptively simple, I spent about eight hours over a couple of days making it.
you sire are AWESOME....I love this stuff. Its amazing what your doing.
I can't wait to get my car running again so I can do this kind of stuff.
sorry if the picture is bad thats the last one out of those batteries, the philister screws holding on th faceplate will be replaced with turned down socket head screws, but i'm too broke to afford any right now,
Ok just have to paint the center section black.
the mirror switch i was using was too tall and hit before the console was all the way down, I cut the collar off the switch socket, and soldered the wires to the switch pins one at a time. after that I added a molex plug. this gives me about another 3/8 clearance, and now the switch will clear.
Looks nice, good work
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
the battery alternator switch on the side of the center console. you can see part of the aluminum piece between the two halves, the bottom of the armrest is recessed and it fits up in there, the factory armrest bottom has four plastic pieces that stick out, and these crack,making it weak. I got rid of those and the aluminum block fits flat between the two pieces. Much stronger.
put the entire thing in temporarily, on the armrest, the back is held in with a bracket that screws on with the rear two center console screws. the front two center console screws went into the plastic on the center console, i used nut plates, instead of screws into the plastic. i had to put it in place, then mark where the two front screws would need to go. I really need to get busy and finish this dash too. it's not that far from being ready to put in.
nut plates that hold the front two screws on the armrest, i need to drill out the rivets and transfer them to the new center console. at about 5 bucks apiece they aren't going to waste
mad props to you tim looks clean man. i like the switches looks like a handful
damn thats alot of stuff u got goin on there, props on the work!
got more harness stuff done
making cardboard templates for the circuit boards in the control box, this is the interface between the mirror switch and the remote control circuit board.
i like all the aviation switches and stuff you using. pretty neat.
I got a little bit done, i found the plunger part of a fuel primer from an airplane, i cut off most of the rod, machined it off and drilled and tapped it to thread on to a switch. I got rid of the switch with the protective cover, everyone kept asking if it was NOS. I had to move the switch over, i'll fill the extra hole later
I got a little bit done, still waiting on my parts to come in so i can get a lot done, i moved the primer control to the radio blank out where the choke control and fuel pressure gauge are. Pissed off though, my paint bubbled, so i have to strip it and start over.
all right, stripped and back in primer, primer is baking.
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