Well I got it off.thanks....
and I got the Guard off as well..But damn its nasty and part of the gasket at the bottom is torn off.
As I pulled off the Little cover for the timing belt pulley. I found dead spiders on it. >.> guess this car had been sitting for 8 years....
Pics for you
Spiders :O
BTW I'm so risking hurting myself....
Anyways. I have everything ready to go...But WHERE THE HELL IS TDC ON THIS!!!!!
The book says look for a white mark...All I have is black and some red..and there wasn't a single damn mark on the pulley itself.
I think the mark is supposed to be on the Flywheel or Converter Side of the engine not on the pulley side.
I also have a thread on adjusting valves
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=39319
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- llia
I've actually had your thread bookmarked, and have been using it.Originally Posted by A20A1
Its a whole lot of help...
BTW thanks for the help on the TDC...I'll check it out tomorrow and finish up the work then..
God this has turned into a multiday project...
Got my new timing belt tonight. I'll be putting it in...as much as I hate it I don't have enough for the tensioner this check. But I already have it on order and will be picking it up next check...>.> gona suck taking everything back off but Its better to make sure I get that done soon..
it's on the flywheel. you have to look through the hole in the bell housing
is that hole on the transmission side?
I've been at work for the past 9 hours so I didn't get to do anything on the car...
um.....yea
sorry, I've never done this before. So like my first post stated. *complete dumbass*
Sorry if its annoying.
don't worry about it, transmission=bellhousing
your learning man thats all that matters
its better to do things and learn and mess up a bunch of times then to pay someone else to mess it up for you ^_^
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
Well guys again thanks for the help....Never would have gotten this far without you all . =^.^=
BTW I'm so confused. You guys say the engine is more then likely non-interference...yet the manual and several sites say it is? but I when I cranked it I never heard anything wrong....
So do you think the sites and manual put it there just to keep people careful?
Last edited by Nio; 01-14-2010 at 09:29 PM.
your learning man thats all that matters
its better to do things and learn and mess up a bunch of times then to pay someone else to mess it up for you ^_^
+ 1 man fuck a mechanic unless hes hooking it up with a good job. well its too bad for me and my car cause it seems i wont be having anytime to work on her and i can only work on her on the weekends cause of work...wish i had money to get my shit done already//
but yeah sooner or later you'll be your own mechanic and thats the shit...when i work on my car i at least have 3 beers to stay calm and get it fixed myself
i honesty dont know why alot of people say it is... like we have all said with our experinces its never had any problems with being interferince im pretty sure yours will be fine .. but it could just be there to get people to spend money to have honda replace it ever so many thousend miles..
yes beer is good when working on car! another good thing is if you have a "kicking fender" a kicking fender is a fender on your car thats all ready dented so when you rage you just kick the shit out of it and it doesent matter cause its allready dented LOL+ 1 man fuck a mechanic unless hes hooking it up with a good job. well its too bad for me and my car cause it seems i wont be having anytime to work on her and i can only work on her on the weekends cause of work...
but yeah sooner or later you'll be your own mechanic and thats the shit...when i work on my car i at least have 3 beers to stay calm and get it fixed myself
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
The a20 is a non interferance engine, I have the factory FSM and it completely states that it isnt. I have fixed many 3 g timing belts (probably close to 10) from friends cars all the way down to my personal cars. dont worry you didnt bend valves. put it back in time and you are good to go.
88 - Hatch - FF class track car Major Upgrades!
87 - Hatch - DD
88 rx7 turbo II - FR class track car - blown engine
86 rx7 NA - Under Construction
90 240 hatch - SOLD
I cant agreee with this behavior..... LOL
88 - Hatch - FF class track car Major Upgrades!
87 - Hatch - DD
88 rx7 turbo II - FR class track car - blown engine
86 rx7 NA - Under Construction
90 240 hatch - SOLD
Nevermind I found it.
Last edited by Nio; 01-15-2010 at 12:49 PM.
Yea its now at TDC....:P I guess I could have just looked at the timing belt pulley, when its notch is straight up its almost dead center.
This piece of shit tensioner is pissing me off.
I try and loosen it to where I can get the belt on and the spring doesn't go back on at all. I try and loosen it with the spring on so I can get the belt on and it doesn't go far enough.
I have ripped my fucking hand open a good 7 times now...WTF is there a easier way to do this bullshit?
hey thats CAH thats how he get his shit done lol
one bolt holds the tensioner, the other is the pivot bolt, you loosen the pivot bolt, push the tensioner out of the way, tighten it, install the belt, put some tension on it, rotate the engine through a couple of rotations, loosen the tensioner bolt, let it tension the belt and retighten the bolt. recheck all your marks.
I would get it on there and then start the car before you go thru all the trouble of putting it together. Make sure the motor is running JIC you did bend a valve. Just run it about a min with the crank pully on,you can mess with that other stuff latter if it works out.
Your picture of your crank pully with the key at the 2 o clock pos. to me is TDC but that by memory. Make sure its the correct mark your looking at on the flywheel. Most have a T pn them. you may have to cleanit off and mark it with chalk to see it well.
wp
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
There is only 1 bolt. And its the one that holds the tensioner...And then there is this spring that lets it go tighter or looser, I can only get the belt on if I remove the spring. but if I do that and get the belt on. I can't get the spring back on in its place. and in trying to do so I have smash my hand a crap load.
This is what it looks like with the spring on... I can't get the belt on no matter what I do like this, Even with the tensioner loose.
But if I take the spring off I can get the belt on, but can't get the spring back on no matter how damn hard I try.
push the tensioner pulley over and then tighten the bolt while it's pushed. this will take the tension off while you put the belt on, strange mine has two bolts. It's a BS engine, maby a minor difference?
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