More then likely bent my valves

[Nio]

push the tensioner pulley over and then tighten the bolt while it's pushed. this will take the tension off while you put the belt on, strange mine has two bolts. It's a BS engine, maby a minor difference?

That's the problem, I can't push it over with that spring on....I have tried over and over, I even tried using pliers to pull it over to the notch and it still doesn't work...

>.> this is the reason I have so many cuts on my right hand.

think I need a new spring that moves a little easier or what?

[lostforawhile]

That's the problem, I can't push it over with that spring on....I have tried over and over, I even tried using pliers to pull it over to the notch and it still doesn't work...

>.> this is the reason I have so many cuts on my right hand.

think I need a new spring that moves a little easier or what?

something is wrong, did you loosen the pivot bolt first? it seems like it's still tight, you should be able to push it by hand

[Nio]

something is wrong, did you loosen the pivot bolt first? it seems like it's still tight, you should be able to push it by hand

Well I can push it by hand with ease if that spring in the picture is off.

But when its on I have to use both hands and all of my strength to get it even half way to the point I need it*cause that spring is way hard to move*, and then I can't tighten it, cause both hands are used to hold the spring over.

So I'm now confused as hell.

[lostforawhile]

Well I can push it by hand with ease if that spring in the picture is off.

But when its on I have to use both hands and all of my strength to get it even half way to the point I need it*cause that spring is way hard to move*, and then I can't tighten it, cause both hands are used to hold the spring over.

So I'm now confused as hell.

you need to find a way to push it over and tighten the bolt, then the belt will go on easy

[Bluntman]

I wonder if you can pull the tensioner bolt all the way out, then get the belt on and then try to get the bolt back in the tensioner with the belt on. And the belt is in the grooves properly when you are doing this? Man I hope nothing moved with all this. Something seems strange.

[lostforawhile]

I wonder if you can pull the tensioner bolt all the way out, then get the belt on and then try to get the bolt back in the tensioner with the belt on. And the belt is in the grooves properly when you are doing this? Man I hope nothing moved with all this. Something seems strange.

he said he can move the tensioner but it takes all his strength, then he can't tighten the bolt while holding it. mine didn't take that much, either something is froze or Nio needs some wheaties. what about a piece of wood to push the pulley over while tightening the bolt?

[Bluntman]

he said he can move the tensioner but it takes all his strength, then he can't tighten the bolt while holding it. mine didn't take that much, either something is froze or Nio needs some wheaties. what about a piece of wood to push the pulley over while tightening the bolt?

You seem to be a good machinist. How about designing a gear drive set up for him. It will slip right in.

[Bluntman]

This may sound dumb, but it is the right belt right? Measure it with the old one to make sure it is the correct length.

[Nio]

its the right belt i have gotten it on there without the spring. but i cant even move the tensionor far enough with the spring. text from phone

[A20A1]

When I put my belt on, I:

Loosen the Cam Gear Bolt

Align the Cam Gear and Crank/Flywheel to TDC

Install the Timing Belt Over Everything But The Cam Gear

Remove the Cam Gear Without Messing Up TDC Alignment

Install Belt Over Cam Gear

Install Cam Gear With Belt

Check For TDC on Both Cam and Crank

Spin Crank Slowly By Hand Checking For Cam/Crank Alignment

*Don't lose the Cam Gear KEY that sits in the Groove of the Gear and the Camshaft




Another Way But Don't Say I Recommend This.

Remove the Camshaft Bearings... Tilt the Camshaft and Gear... Install the Timing belt... slowly tilt the camshaft back down into place... reinstall the Camshaft Bearings.

[Nio]

When I put my belt on, I:

Loosen the Cam Gear Bolt

Align the Cam Gear and Crank/Flywheel to TDC

Install the Timing Belt Over Everything But The Cam Gear

Remove the Cam Gear Without Messing Up TDC Alignment

Install Belt Over Cam Gear

Install Cam Gear With Belt

Check For TDC on Both Cam and Crank

Spin Crank Slowly By Hand Checking For Cam/Crank Alignment

*Don't lose the Cam Gear KEY that sits in the Groove of the Gear and the Camshaft




Another Way But Don't Say I Recommend This.

Remove the Camshaft Bearings... Tilt the Camshaft and Gear... Install the Timing belt... slowly tilt the camshaft back down into place... reinstall the Camshaft Bearings.

Do I need any special tool to remove the cam gear?

[Nio]

YEA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I got it on....>.> a bit weird like but its in.

I had to use both my thumbs, one on the spring and the other on the top lock. Got it on the ridge of the bolt the top lock sits on. and then just tightened the tensioner bolt. And it slide right into place. in the process of putting stuff back on to test if I did it right.

[Nio]

Okay belt is on perfect. *atleast by everything thing I have checked. Its TDC on the camgear, and TDC on crank/flywheel.

she is still not starting. I have installed new plugs, and plug wires tonight with it. could it be that the plugs are not in right. to close or to far. would that cause the car to not start.

she did backfire 2 times out of 10 or so cranks..

also would not having my power steering hooked up cause her to not start...cause my locking bolts for that are messed up so I'll be picking up some more tomorrow...

Any ideas guys, If I have to I'll take the timing belt off and re-do everything, Should take me about 3-5 hours the second time I go threw. since I know what I'm doing now.

[Bass Man]

Cylinder 1 is closest to the cam gear. The distributor cap will tell you where to put the wires.

If you had any backfire, then it's gotta be the plug wires, cuz it should only fire while both the valves are closed, wherever the timing may be set.

[Nio]

Cylinder 1 is closest to the cam gear. The distributor cap will tell you where to put the wires.

If you had any backfire, then it's gotta be the plug wires, cuz it should only fire while both the valves are closed, wherever the timing may be set.

Just double checked. The spark plug wires are all correct.

I didn't change my distributor cap or button tonight...so I know its still correct.

Anything else could cause this?

[A20A1]

Did you car have a ground wire to the thermostat housing or thereabouts? I remember on carbed cars unhooking that ground wire led to starting and running trouble. Bad grounds in general can do that too.


Did you check valve lash after you installed the belt?

[Nio]

Did you car have a ground wire to the thermostat housing or thereabouts? I remember on carbed cars unhooking that ground wire led to starting and running trouble. Bad grounds in general can do that too.


Did you check valve lash after you installed the belt?

Would I need to check that. I didn't mess with any of it, and she ran a couple days ago.

But I still need to know if having the spark plugs themselfs to far in our out would stop her from starting.

Also no ground wires were disconnected..

So I'm still a bit confused.

[Hauntd ca3]

the leads maybe in the right place , but is the rotor pointing to number one when its meant to be?
have seen that cock up many times.
set the motor up tdc number 1 and take the cap off and make sure its pointing where number 1 would be if the cap were on.
it may sound silly, but its easy to do, especially if you've replaced the leads

[Nio]

Okay I'll give it a try in a few minutes

[Nio]

I just checked it, Its right. But the bottom bolt on the cap is broken. So I will more then likely have to buy a new distributor soon. Have a feeling that was broken when I bought her...

okay. Now I have a big question.. I ran threw the whole flywheel when I did line up the TDC

the only marks I found was something like this.



There was no T anywhere, just this 15 and the two bars.. >.> actually I didn't notice there was 2 lines till just now when I went back out and re-checked everything...so I might actually not be set right. But how I have the picture is exactly how I have mine set.

[ecogabriel]

Wiggle back and forth. It'll walk right off. If you are going to replace seals while you are in there, replace the oil pump and camshaft seals too. The oil pump seal gets old and hard. Eventually the pump loses pressure and you burn up the engine. Learned that one the hard way.

The pulley fits tightly around the crankshaft; try what Snooz says -I got mine out that way. Replace as many seals as possible since you are in there

[ecogabriel]

I just checked it, Its right. But the bottom bolt on the cap is broken. So I will more then likely have to buy a new distributor soon. Have a feeling that was broken when I bought her...

okay. Now I have a big question.. I ran threw the whole flywheel when I did line up the TDC

the only marks I found was something like this.



There was no T anywhere, just this 15 and the two bars.. >.> actually I didn't notice there was 2 lines till just now when I went back out and re-checked everything...so I might actually not be set right. But how I have the picture is exactly how I have mine set.

There should be a T mark somewhere nearby the "15" mark; that is your TDC. #1 and #4 will be at top dead center when the pointer matches the T mark. At TDC the valves in #1 are both closed

If the timing belt is set with that mark... you may have some issues like I had; engine would idle irregularly and die after a few minutes, and it would not rev beyond 5K... I dunno who was the bonehead that used that mark in my car...
Anyway, turn the crankshaft SLOWLY and there should be a T mark not too far away from those two marks

[ecogabriel]

On second thought, I remember reading a thread sometime ago.
Someone bought a new flywheel that did not have the marks for TDC or 15 degrees.

One way to get TDC without the mark would be removing the spark plugs and turning the crankshaft until the top of the piston can be seen through the spark plug hole; with a little back-and-forth turning one may have the piston at close enough TDC even without the mark. Of course, the valves for #1 should be both closed

Probably the difficulty in cranking is too much spark advance. If the distributor was adjusted at 15 degrees before TDC, now it would be adjusted at 30 degrees (15 degrees plus the 15 degrees that the camshaft is advanced now if you used the 15 degree mark)

Hope it helps, or that someone would correct me with a closer answer

[lostforawhile]

On second thought, I remember reading a thread sometime ago.
Someone bought a new flywheel that did not have the marks for TDC or 15 degrees.

One way to get TDC without the mark would be removing the spark plugs and turning the crankshaft until the top of the piston can be seen through the spark plug hole; with a little back-and-forth turning one may have the piston at close enough TDC even without the mark. Of course, the valves for #1 should be both closed

Probably the difficulty in cranking is too much spark advance. If the distributor was adjusted at 15 degrees before TDC, now it would be adjusted at 30 degrees (15 degrees plus the 15 degrees that the camshaft is advanced now if you used the 15 degree mark)

Hope it helps, or that someone would correct me with a closer answer

this one sounds like a beater he bought, 99 percent chance it has the factory flywheel

[ecogabriel]

this one sounds like a beater he bought, 99 percent chance it has the factory flywheel

If so then the "T" (TDC) mark should be there, right?