More then likely bent my valves

[Nio]

Cause I'm a complete dumbass. >.>

Now I have to take this crap apart and see if I really did.

I was trying to adjust my timing, forgot to mark my belt. And tried to start her up. And now I think I did it wrong....SO YEA!!! now I get to buy more parts this check....oh well. I guess its better to do it now.

Just hope nothing else is wrong.

This has turned into one hell of a day. T_T

[Hauntd ca3]

why were you playing wit tha cam timing?
they are a set and forget thing.
no need to touch it til its time to replace .
if the valve clearances are with in factory tolerance, chances are the valves are fine and you've screwed up the ign timing.
if you have some clearances that are miles out, you prob have bent some valves.
of course that is assuming that the clearances were good to start with

[itzdave]

damn, if i still lived in OK id hook ya up with my other complete head...

[itzdave]

and always turn-over the engine a few complete turns by putting a socket and a breaker bar or long handled ratchet on the crankshaft bolt, then just listen for anything to collide that shouldnt collide...

[Nio]

I didn't hear anything colliding, But she won't start.

I read I should have herd something, But I didn't....But I highly dought I got lucky enough to match my belt right back up...especially since she won't start.

[2ndGenGuy]

^^^ Love your Avatar Dave! ^^^

Everybody keeps telling me the A20 is a non-interference engine. If that's the case, you should have no bent valves from getting the cam timing out. If you did bend some valves, well then that would make the A20 an interference engine.

[Nio]

^^^ Love your Avatar Dave! ^^^

Everybody keeps telling me the A20 is a non-interference engine. If that's the case, you should have no bent valves from getting the cam timing out. If you did bend some valves, well then that would make the A20 an interference engine.

Anyway Besides Ripping the whole thing apart to find out.

also any good way for me to set my timing belt. Since I don't have a replacement I'll be using this one....

[Nio]

Nevermind, I get paid tomorrow night, I'll just pick up a new belt, and do it all over again. if she doesn't start up. Then I guess I bent some valves, Or as Hauntd ca3 said I screwed up the IGN timing.

[Civic Accord Honda]

yep pretty sure you should be fine as I'm 95% positive the a20a is a non interference engine (step dad broke 2 of them and i think lost said he broke 1 at 6000rpm or something like that)

[Nio]

yep pretty sure you should be fine as I'm 95% positive the a20a is a non interference engine (step dad broke 2 of them and i think lost said he broke 1 at 6000rpm or something like that)

Well that's good news....

But I still need to replace the belt So I can get it right....>.< But I don't really want to have to go back threw that hell again. Should be easier though since I know what I'm doing now...

[Hauntd ca3]

if you going to do a belt, do the tensioner and idler at the same time.
am not familiar with cam timing on an a20a but form the manual, there is a tdc mark on the flywheel and a pointer that need to be lined up.
and on the cam wheel there is up stamped on it and a mark on each side of the wheel that line up with the cam cover surface. that will get you to where you need to start.
somewhere here is a link to the factory service manuals that you should download that has all the info you need .
someone stick up a link

[Nio]

Well This is going to have to wait. I've spent the last 7 hours working on the car. and now I'm to damn tired to do anything.....

I'll finish up tomorrow when I pick up the parts...

[Rendon LX-i]

your timing is just way off man. redo your timing belt and should start right up

[Dr_Snooz]

The service manual is here. Read it, love it, live it.

When I put my head on (my cylinder head that is, not my head head), the crankshaft moved on me after I torqued the haed and before I got the timing belt or flywheel on. With the head at #1 TDC, I turned the crank several full revolutions without any restrictions. I'm confident these are not interference engines. I agree with Hauntd though, unless your valves were wildly out of adjustment, you're probably fine.

[Nio]

The service manual is here. Read it, love it, live it.

When I put my head on (my cylinder head that is, not my head head), the crankshaft moved on me after I torqued the haed and before I got the timing belt or flywheel on. With the head at #1 TDC, I turned the crank several full revolutions without any restrictions. I'm confident these are not interference engines. I agree with Hauntd though, unless your valves were wildly out of adjustment, you're probably fine.

Wow your awesome.


Thanks guys.

[lostforawhile]

yep pretty sure you should be fine as i'm 95% positive the a20a is a non interference engine (step dad broke 2 of them and i think lost said he broke 1 at 6000rpm or something like that)

7000, and i kept trying to restart it since I thought it was a failed fuel pump, i forgot if the dizzy isn't turning, the fuel pump won't come on, it's fine. mine is a BS so I don't know if there is that much of a difference

[Bluntman]

Since you are going to have the pulley off, and timing cover off. It may be a good idea to check the front main seal for leakage and replace it, since it is accessable at that time. I always replace things that are already apart so I do not have to do it twice.

[Civic Accord Honda]

yes DO replace the front main seal or your regret it later, its only like $11 anyway

things you should replace
Timing belt
tensener(SP)
cam seal
front main seal
and if you want you can replace the water pump but thats pretty easy to replace without even removing the timing belt so if your low on funds that can wait unless your having problems with it.. (replaced 2 on 3gees without removing timing belt and was not hard at all)

[Nio]

Okay I'm back in the process of removing crap. i have the tire off, the wheel well off, the engine supported, the all belts off but the timing belt *duh* and the belt in this picture. >.> which I can't figure out how to get off.



as well how bloody hard am I going to have to work to remove that engine mount?

[nswst8]

THat bolt is the A/C adjusting bolt, the nut just came off. It happened to me.

The mounts are easy to remove (2) 14mm bolts.

[Nio]

NVM I got the engine mount off. so now I just need to get that damn belt off...then everything should be pretty smooth.

I used a 3 foot metal beam to help me out here. cause I'm not that built. >.>

@Nwst8 thanks I had been wondering what it was...I just don't know how to get it off..


Everything is so dirty down there. Its hard to find the TDC on the crankshaft.

[Nio]

Got it off. The damn manual doesn't explain it for my car....It had like 2 extra bolts...

But YEA! its done. Now to the next part..

[Nio]

I have the crankshaft bolt out, Now how the heck do I get the pulley out, Its like stuck still. Any helpful tips?

[Dr_Snooz]

I have the crankshaft bolt out, Now how the heck do I get the pulley out, Its like stuck still. Any helpful tips?

Wiggle back and forth. It'll walk right off. If you are going to replace seals while you are in there, replace the oil pump and camshaft seals too. The oil pump seal gets old and hard. Eventually the pump loses pressure and you burn up the engine. Learned that one the hard way.

[LewZur]

I have the crankshaft bolt out, Now how the heck do I get the pulley out, Its like stuck still. Any helpful tips?

BFH, Big Fucking Hammer, I used a puller on mine, don't loose the keyway whatever you do.