should i try and replace it or should i swap the engine??? i have a 89 lxi hatch with efi.. i wanna keep it cali leagll so i would have to keep the same engine
should i try and replace it or should i swap the engine??? i have a 89 lxi hatch with efi.. i wanna keep it cali leagll so i would have to keep the same engine
I might be missing the point of your question, but why would you pay $1200 for an engine when you can pay $10 for a seal?
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
+1 im confusedOriginally Posted by Dr_Snooz
just replace the seal (do timing belt , tensioner , water pump , cam seal while your at it)
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
swap it for sure.
dead white and blue
engine is like 600 or 300 depending on usage but no more than 800
no, he asked if he should swap it. see the d-series thread for valuable information.
dead white and blue
this is your best friend if you need to replace it...
http://www.pauldesign.ru/honda/shopmanual.html
he said he would have to keep the same engine lol so an a20 for another a20 makes no since
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
yup, nobody said anything about goin d-series...
lol thanks everyone i just dont know what im getting my self into i have all the tools i just dont wanna mess anything up i think im just going to replace the seal any tips would be nice lol
Where you at in Cal.?
My '66' GT I built. My first Hot Rod magazine Cover "Summer 85". I've had it for 32 years, since I was 18. It's a trailer queen. 289 Hi-po, t-10 Toploader 4speed, 9 inch rearend.
weird could have sworn i did?
dead white and blue
find a piece of pvc pipe the same diameter as the seal, you can get the seal online at hondapartsnow.com for cheap, or a dealer may even ahve one in stock. you take the seal press it into the groove evenly by slowly tapping on the the pipe with a hammer.
is it the front you said? that one's easy but i would say if the car has higher miles you should just replace the oil pump while you're at it... that's a bigger job though.
dead white and blue
i live in oakland hayward area im about four hours from you if i remember correctly lol
i live in the oakland hayward area
If you were local I could have helped you out. Well you will get it.
My '66' GT I built. My first Hot Rod magazine Cover "Summer 85". I've had it for 32 years, since I was 18. It's a trailer queen. 289 Hi-po, t-10 Toploader 4speed, 9 inch rearend.
If you're doing the front main, you should do timing belt while you're at it. If you get another engine, it will probably just have the same leak anyways.
LOL i enjoy your posts
88 - Hatch - FF class track car Major Upgrades!
87 - Hatch - DD
88 rx7 turbo II - FR class track car - blown engine
86 rx7 NA - Under Construction
90 240 hatch - SOLD
yeah just buy the seals...take out the manual...take a day to do everything
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Just dig out the old seal, flip it over and set it over the new seal. It works better than anything I've ever tried.
The front main seal is part of a routine timing belt service (because it sits behind the timing belt). If you're new to fixing cars, the timing belt really isn't the repair you want to start with. It's a lot of work and a lot more difficult than something like changing oil. I'd say have an experienced mechanic with you if that's an option. You'll want to replace the front main seal, the cam seal, the oil pump seals, the timing belt and probably the water pump while you're in there. If you take the car to the dealer and ask for a timing belt service, they'll do everything I've just mentioned, but you'll pay for it real good.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
if you go to the dealer better buy some of this, you'll need it, and plan on walking funny for a week.
umm yeah! the stealerships will screw you for all that.
i put my CD6 in to the dealer for a cam belt a while back and they ended up doing the cam and balance shaft belts ,tensioners for both, idlers for both, cam and crank seals and a water pump.
they'll tell you say $300 for just a cam belt and then do everything else aswell/
all that shit cost me a grand
yeah i'd rather them do that then just the timing belt and send you on your way only to have a water pump go bad in a month... i believe in doing things right... if you're not willing to do it yourself then be ready to spend money.
dead white and blue
yeah i know i am either going to do it in my auto classs or if im lazy i guess immma say buy buy paycheack lol
There's a reason it costs so much. It's a heck of a lot of labor and not something a brand new mechanic should be taking on.
Uh, you are in an auto shop class and you're considering getting raped at the dealer?yeah i know i am either going to do it in my auto classs or if im lazy i guess immma say buy buy paycheack lol
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
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