Carb Spacer

[lostforawhile]

Like lost said, the computer controls the vacuums which control the carb. Take off the O2 and the ECM thinks it's not running rich enough (O2 goes from 1ohm resistence to 5ohm or something like that. 5ohms means theres not enough gas to connect the parts of the sensor, so it richens the system), so then it starts to close off vacuums that usually lean it out, but if you use RTV, then the vacuum leak there will even you out...

if the ecm thinks it's lean it changes the pulse rate of the frequency solenoid valves and lets less air in the manifold, this allows a richer mixture, the carb is set rich by default, if you take everything off of the control system and down to a basic carb the mixture is factory set rich. This is a default to allow the car to run in the event of a failure in the control system, if it was set lean the car would overheat in a failure. It's the ass backwards setup of a fuel injection system, fuel is fixed instead of air and air is injected in controlled pulses to adjust mixture. I know the entire system backwards and forwards and it's still a complete pain in the ass to fix, people were complaining about fixing them when they were new, now 25 years later a lot of the crap can't even be fixed. There are parts in the carb such as the valve built into the top hat that can't even be fixed. some of the rebuilders have devised ways, but they have special tools to take them apart and have to make the replacement parts themselves since they were never made in the first place, Honda just figured you would buy a new carb or major assembly.

[import racer]

Mine doesn't have an o2 sensor and i'm carbed.No place in manifold for one either.

[lostforawhile]

Mine doesn't have an o2 sensor and i'm carbed.No place in manifold for one either.

the Canadian cars are different then the usdm cars, you don't have the EPA trying to screw up cars before they are even designed.

[Bass Man]

Or Al Gore.

[Rollz87civic]

all he did was disconnect the O2 sensor, they are very much connected to the carb, the system has no way of detecting this is a fault though, the big white valves on the side of the engine allow air into the manifold in pulses, this leans the mixture to a normal mixture, it gets the rich lean data through the o2 sensor and some other parameters, th problem is the electronic and mechanical control systems don't communicate with each other, it has a computer in the sense it detects inputs and changes the output based on them, but it's a very primitive computer, It could be the dual carb keihin now with it's check engine lights and tps sensors and everything else. Be glad it's not.

I did more than just disconect the o2 ever last emission peace is gone the stuiped stuff in the fenders I mean everything.

[A20A1]

The "slow/slow-air jet" is for Off idle to 1/4 throttle.

Keihin documents it as "Slow Mixture Jet" for our carb.
The Slow Mix jet is located next to the primary emulsion tube and is easily unscrewed from the carb, but barring a replacement I guess you'd have to drill it if you wanted it larger. I'm not sure if making it larger lets in more fuel or more air in our case, but keihin says that a larger jet on their other carbs will richen the mixture.


The "Primary and Secondary Air Correction Jet" are located in the top hat, although only the secondary is easily removable.
An increase in size would lean the mixture as engine speed is increased say to 3,000+ rpms, though not positive where that relates to in terms of throttle position.

The "Accelerator Pump Lever" can be bent to adjust the gap between the lever and the accelerator pump rod which will alter the timing of the pump shot.
Adding delay could solve problems of an overly rich stumble.

[lostforawhile]

if you have removed all the junk from the carb, why not get a webber and just install it instead? I think you'll be a lot happier then messing with the pos.

the most likely reason for the high idle is all that rtv you tried to seal the bases with. Oh did you somehow plug the coolant passage in the carb base? RTV dissolves pretty quick in direct contact with fuel, if you used it to seal two carb bases together and there is still coolant flowing in the carb base, you are running the risk of a major coolant leak straight into your intake manifold and possibly even hydrolocking a cyl. That passage is under full water pump pressure. The carb bases are designed to seal with a special O ring not rtv

[mushroom_toy]

My stage 4 vac removal keihin with the manual secondary was simple as hell to mod, and made a huge difference in my car from stock. (the track car project I had), Modding the keihin was free, and a weber is a pricey alternative. If anyone does decide to do a stage 4 vac removal go for it. Its worth it imho. I still have one for sell with the manifold if anyone doesnt wanna mod their stock one.