adjust your carb right now!!!

[staticpat]

was bored yesterday so i randomly decided to take it out, and ssee if i could get the cap off the a/f screw. took a while to take out all the linkages and mark them, but not too bad. took half a second to pop of the cap for the screw. i sprayed that mug down with some carb cleaner, it was gross. . the only thing i didn't think was i probably shouldnt have sprayed the carb with all my masking tape marked linkages!!!! they melted. anyways, wasnt too hard to put back in, pretty easy to figure where everything went. the onyl really hard part was finding all the crap i dropped under the car.

car actually started the first time, all links were perfect. i was very impressed. cleaned it again, and was ready to do some adjusting.

tweaked the idle down, to about the lowest i could get it, and tweaked the a/f screw 4 turns richer. my car runs 100X better now! im so impressed

car idles where its supposed to now, before it was over 1000 usually, and over 2000 in park. and when i put it in gear, the whole car didn't jump. i was pretty impressed at the smoothness of acceleration too. my only problem is when i go constant speed, the car kinda internally jumps, just a little, not too big a problem

then i go to start the car this morning i was utterly amazed. first time since i bought it that i didnt have to run it on choke to start. it started perfect, just like a new car. and again when i shifted into gear (without even waiting 3 minutes like i ususally have to, even on the hottest day of the year) the whole car stayed smooth, no jerking.

im so happy, car is running like new. if you havent done this yet, do it now! it only takes an afternoon.

now my only problem is the massive smoke out my exhaust from leaking valve cover gasket. brand new gasket, but i never got the little top grommets, when i get those im taking it back to the track.

[A20A1]

Did you remove the emissions vacuum lines?
Have you done the secondary conversion?
I found out youy really don't need the air-jet controller.

I just finished polishing the carb barrels and drilling the jets... if the car runs better the carb goes up for sale and I stick on the weber.

[staticpat]

havent done conversion yet, as soon as i get by a junkyard im gonna though. which lines are the emissions vaccum lines? i just plugged everything back how i found it.

[Champ87AccordLX]

Uhh.....is all this stuff in the Haynes??? and which way do you turn the a/f screw if you have a rich mixture?? ( of air or fuel, I don't know)

[A20A1]

turn the a/f screw in - clockwise to lean the mixture.
turn the a/f screw out - counterclockwise to richen the mixture.

[shepherd79]

hey mike,
are you gonna sell your keihin carb? how much?
i am interested in it.

[staticpat]

ok, got back from track. my time was like 2/10ths slower, but it was also very wet and humid. adjusting the carb didn't make me faster but it moved my power range. i got a great start and was ahead at 60feet, car has alot better low end, but again im not any faster. still worth doing though. im not done messing with it yet.

[POS carb]

lol, my friend drove my car and wanted to know how the hell my car is faster than his if mine is 10 years older and came with only 98 hp and the transmission shop guy was bitching because he couldn't figure out my "altered" vacuum system

[A20A1]

Eyes start popping out of their sockets when I do an oil change at jiffy lube.

They seem to like the look of my ram air and carb... and it's so empty in my engine bay. They said it sounded like a domestic though when I first drove it in and they had to open the hood.


then it's: "Oh shit what happned to your interior?"

and I'm like... it's in storage.

[staticpat]

mechanics didnt look twice at my custom intake when i went to get my timing adjusted. just movied it aside.

[staticpat]

actually just heard from someone who watched me race

he was amazed that how i got great start and pulled away so quick, and stayed ahead till about halfway(99 escort).

anyway to keep this awesome low end, but even out the rest??

[A20A1]

It's all about the hood scoop... I'd park at the usual racer hang out and I'd get some looks, then one guy would come over and want to see what I did... then a mass of his buddies would follow and I felt like I could get mobed at any moment.

then they ask my 1/4 mile time... I could say 17 but then that would make them think my car is slow overall.. so I tell them it's not a drag car... I didn't build it for the strip.

[A20A1]

get a fuel pressure regulator... not the dial in kind... I've already made that mistake.

Cam regrind should be your next mod... or a weber.

[HondaBoy]

hey now. my damn engine is running at 2500rpm. i have to shift into 2nd to take off of it will be too hard to keep it stopped . then when im ready to park i have to shift into 2nd and turn it off so i wouldnt keep running and mess up some stuff. i know the carb needs adjusting. im thinking its the idle speed screw i need to turn? is it? also when u spray the carb cleaner do u spray it on cold or when the engine is hot, or maybe when its running. i need to know . i hope u can help me cuz i havnt got a damn clue what i need to do.

[A20A1]

turn down the idle... if that doesn't work you'll have to check for vacuum leaks.

You have 2 idle screws. both are located on the left side of the carb uder te air cleaner box.

- 1 is a diaphragm (round) with a vacuum line connected to the brass lines to the left of the carb

- 2 is a throttle stop screw (black knob) it's on the left side and is screwed into the carb from the rear.

they both adjust the throttle linkage the throttle stop screw is the lowest idle setting and the idle diaphragm is the highest idle setting, not counting the fast idle.

When the car keeps running after you shut it off at high rpms (above 1,500) thats called deiseling... basicly there is still enough vacuum to pull fuel into the motor and still enough heat to cause combustion.

vacuum leaks to the idle diaphragm will cause the idle speed to increase.

the idle diaphragm may be loooked upon as an idle puller.
High manifold vacuum will pull the spring loaded idle screw off the throttle and the rpms will decrease.
when rpms decrease manifold vacuum also decreases and the spring has enough force to push on the throttle again to raise the rpms.
It's basicly a cycle to balance the idle speed.

when you have a vacuum leak. manifold vacuum is alwasy low... thus the spring takes over and pushes the throttle open.

[HondaBoy]

thanx. i took it to my local speed shop. i was already going there with my friend so the guy there helped me out. he adjusted the screw and now its doing better. i think maybe its a little on the lean side now, but its is pulling better all the way to red line. now its time for my wheel alignment. also i think i need new spark plugs.

[HondaBoy]

also i dont guess a little carb cleaner spray would hurt. i looked at the butter fly thing and its a lil dirty.

[HondaBoy]

i was right cuz i got some carb cleaner and cleaned it right up. befor i did it , the carb was blackish in some spots and the metal was gold. after cleaning it , it turned new looking. no more black nasty stuff. also it made my idle go back to normal. it is now getting better gas mileage as well.

[swiftly_driven]

wassup my 3geez ridaz...

i'm new to this forum. i just registered a few minutes ago. i've been checking this site out for a minute and i was interested in knowing that i can talk to my peeps about anything about my whip...

i have a 1988 Honda Accord LX... right now i'm in the middle of hooking my whip up. the body of the car is white and red with white and red interior. i have a few more things to do to my car and then i will put pictures of my car on this site so my peeps can view it.

i have one problem with my car. it is the idle. when i start my car, my idle goes straight to 2000rpms and then goes between 2500 and 3000 rpms in park. i was told that my idle is running to high. this happens only when the car is cold and i let it warm up for a few minutes and when i shift into gear, the car jumps. i hate that. the car will go 20mph by itself when i do not have my foot on the gas and i know that something is wrong. but when the car is warm and have been driven for a while, the idle drops between 1500 and 1800rpms. i need to know what can i do to fix this problem. i don't want my car to be the loudest when i start it everytime. plus i burn alot of gas...so wassup.:badass:

[njpeter]

outside of checking out the great stuff we have here on carb adjustments..start by pulling the air cleaner and doing a hard look at the vac hoses..a bath with carb cleaner and checking for throttle cable play. too fast of fast idle is NOT good and quite dangerous, esp if the car will do 20 on it's own..:-(

all systems are fully interconnected..you MUST make these adjustments with the engine at full temp ( fans go on at least once).

if the system has been "worked on", the best investment youi can make besides time spent here is the accord shop manual, or as I call it the "silver bible", forget aftermarket books for carb adjustments..take a look at all the threads here and you'll be able to whip it into some kinda shape.

I've mastered mine..but I still at times have to get in there and fix a cracked hose or other problem...but now I idle at 750 in gear which is good as I drive 50 miles in heavy trafic neraly every day..the gray boy just creeps along unlesss I touch the gas..beats having to put 15 pounds of pressure on the brake pedal

fast idle of 1500-2000 is OK..but it has to kick down to 1500 or some after a minute of running. carb spary may be the quick fix