some vague coolant observations.

[jasonrebellion]

okay sooo... last week i was drivin down the interstate and i had a hose bust. it was a pin prick hole in one of the hoses going to my heater. I'm not sure if it was the return or sending hose....it was the one that went in below the other at the firewall, plugged into the heater control. so im assuming the "sending" hose. anywho, i replace the hose, and fill it back up with coolant..but I didn't bleed it from the valve next to the tw sensor and what not. so this morning i'm going to work and about 2 miles from my house the gauge spikes up, and it's in the red. i noticed I had ZERO warm air coming from my heater. so i get to looking and realize its bubbling out from the radiator cap that I replaced back when i did my thermostat(Phil probly remembers talkin to me on the phone). so i go to my bravada and pop the cap off it (it's rated for 16 lbs, not 13lbs like ours) and off i go around town to buy another cap for the honda and no problems. well I swap the new cap on and drive to mcd's and drop my wife off at work and it starts to over heat again. so i Popped that vlave open and let some air bubbles out, close it up and swap the 16 lb cap back on it "seems" all is good. why would the pressure in my coolant go up from changing a heater hose? Sorry for the long post just wondering..... its got a recent water pump, thermostat and now cap andheater hose. 1987 lxi.

[2ndGenGuy]

..but I didn't bleed it from the valve next to the tw sensor and what not.

You didn't bleed it? That would be your issue... You get air in your cooling system, and the heat can't transfer from the head to the coolant. You really need to bleed it.

so i Popped that vlave open and let some air bubbles out

If you bled it, and had air in it, and didn't replace the air in the cooling system, you still have air. You need to go back through and rebleed the whole system properly. Put your heater on "Hot" so as to open the heater core valve (if you didn't do this, that is also full of air). And fill the cooling system with the bleed valve open.

[jasonrebellion]

i really don't know why i didn't do that to begin with..because I did do it when I changed my water pump a few months ago...never crossed my mind this time....

[itzdave]

okay sooo... last week i was drivin down the interstate and i had a hose bust. it was a pin prick hole in one of the hoses going to my heater. I'm not sure if it was the return or sending hose....it was the one that went in below the other at the firewall, plugged into the heater control. so im assuming the "sending" hose. anywho, i replace the hose, and fill it back up with coolant..but I didn't bleed it from the valve next to the tw sensor and what not. so this morning i'm going to work and about 2 miles from my house the gauge spikes up, and it's in the red. i noticed I had ZERO warm air coming from my heater. so i get to looking and realize its bubbling out from the radiator cap that I replaced back when i did my thermostat(Phil probly remembers talkin to me on the phone). so i go to my bravada and pop the cap off it (it's rated for 16 lbs, not 13lbs like ours) and off i go around town to buy another cap for the honda and no problems. well I swap the new cap on and drive to mcd's and drop my wife off at work and it starts to over heat again. so i Popped that vlave open and let some air bubbles out, close it up and swap the 16 lb cap back on it "seems" all is good. why would the pressure in my coolant go up from changing a heater hose? Sorry for the long post just wondering..... its got a recent water pump, thermostat and now cap andheater hose. 1987 lxi.

sounds like it needs to be bled...








































































































lol, you said prick btw

[A20A1]

Bleed the system for sure.
is your thermostat in correctly and the right temp T-Stat?


Usually a sudden drop in temp from the heater means dead water pump. For a while I was positive my friend had all the symptoms of a faulty water-pump, symptoms like you have now but his system was bled. I looked for leaks and didn't see any. We ran a pressure test on the radiator, and it leaked, but I'm not sure why we didn't notice it before when the car was running. Anyways thankfully we found the leak because I wasn't about to change a water-pump on a 6th gen V6 accord. One new radiator later and the problem was fixed. To be honest though it wasn't a solid drop in heater air temp. I was in the car with him and told him to run the heater because his car started to overheat. The heater air got hot then cold and would fluctuate for a while like that. If the air temp had just stayed cold and spiked to hot on the coolant temp gauge then I would lean heavily on it being a bad pump, but initially the symptoms were close enough for me to suspect it was.

In your situation, the lower rated cap probably acted like a leaky radiator... problem still remains that you're not cooling your engine properly or maybe your fan isn't coming on causing too much heat/pressure in the radiator.

[jasonrebellion]

nah we're good now that I bled it.... that was the first time i used the heater since i had replaced the hose. I actually changed my water pump back in maybe june or july, thermostat in aug or sept. so i forgot to bleed my coolant.....I'm learning new stuff everyday lol.

[nswst8]

Bleed it!

Put the correct radiator cap back on!

This is an early warning device, you do not want to build any more than the rated 13psi in the cooling system.

[senor honda]

My stock temp gauge stopped working.

Can anyone steer me to a picture or information as to where
my 89 Accord A20 engine gets it's stock temp gauge reading from?
What color is the wire?
Where does it plug into?
What does the sender look like?
Where does the sender screw into?

I put in a replacement engine and goofed up somewhere.
Thanks in advance for your replies.-Bob

[lostforawhile]

My stock temp gauge stopped working.

Can anyone steer me to a picture or information as to where
my 89 Accord A20 engine gets it's stock temp gauge reading from?
What color is the wire?
Where does it plug into?
What does the sender look like?
Where does the sender screw into?

I put in a replacement engine and goofed up somewhere.
Thanks in advance for your replies.-Bob

is it a carb or fuel injection?

[itzdave]

My stock temp gauge stopped working.

Can anyone steer me to a picture or information as to where
my 89 Accord A20 engine gets it's stock temp gauge reading from?
What color is the wire?
Where does it plug into?
What does the sender look like?
Where does the sender screw into?

I put in a replacement engine and goofed up somewhere.
Thanks in advance for your replies.-Bob

if its carbed, its on the underside of the intake manifold if i remember correctly...

[lostforawhile]

if its carbed, its on the underside of the intake manifold if i remember correctly...

it's on the back side of the intake, small sensor single wire attached to it, check the connection at the sender first,

[senor honda]

I have considered moving the sender to the thermostat housing....I have a vacant, small threaded spot available.........would like to know the engine temp instead of the manifold temp.

Maybe I have a bad sender?.....

Color of wire would be helpful also....to track it down.
Looks like I have a single wire going to the choke also and I don't know which wire is for temp or choke.-Bob

It is carbed.

[lostforawhile]

I have considered moving the sender to the thermostat housing....I have a vacant, small threaded spot available.........would like to know the engine temp instead of the manifold temp.

Maybe I have a bad sender?.....

Color of wire would be helpful also....to track it down.
Looks like I have a single wire going to the choke also and I don't know which wire is for temp or choke.-Bob

It is carbed.

vacant spot? you aren't talking about the bolt hole where the ground is supposed to bolt on are you? if that ground wire is missing that may be part of your problem, the sender is the only sender directly on the back of the manifold. single wire, and you are measuring coolant temperature, it's in the water jacket that runs through the intake manifold. you will need to plug the hole with something, it's not 1/8 NPT, it's 1/8 BSP. if you try to screw a regular pipe thread plug in there you will screw up the threads. also if you try to put the sender in the thermostat housing, you will need a 1/8 bsp tap after you tig weld on a bung. good luck getting your hands on the tap I had to wait six months for mine on back order.

[senor honda]

All 10mm (bolt head) bolts are in place and I have run in extra ground wires straight to the battery ground.....thanks for mentioning it....
---------------------------------------
Manifold holes....
On the back/side of the manifold there are 5 holes...
1-Water hose pipe is on Pass side of manifold,
2-small diameter/single pin...might be a temp sender,
3-Blue plastic....once had hoses 17 and 25 going to it.
4-Bigger and on the driver side/corner of manifold.....unknown....it was broken off....nut size is 19mm maybe had hoses 17,18,19 going to it
4-Water hose pipe is on the actual manifold side/corner/driver side.
Presently there is no water going through the water jacket under the carb
and no need to plug any holes....and no need to know the temp of a cold manifold...
-------------------------------------
The small diameter/single pin....might be a temp sender, from (2) above
screws perfectly into one of the 10 oclock position thermostat housing holes.
-------------------------------------
Thermostat housing holes...
Looking from the pass side there are 5 holes with cast bungs...
3 bungs in the 12 oclock position......first one is the air bleed, 2 others are sealed off.
In the 10 oclock position there are 2 cast bungs....
First 10 oclock position has an aftermarket temp gauge with adapter...
Second 10 oclock position has the small diameter/single pin...might be a temp sender..................and this is where I would run the stock temp sender
wire
ito if someone can tell me the color of the wire.....-Bob

vacant spot? you aren't talking about the bolt hole where the ground is supposed to bolt on are you? if that ground wire is missing that may be part of your problem,

the sender is the only sender directly on the back of the manifold. single wire, and you are measuring coolant temperature, it's in the water jacket that runs through the intake manifold. you will need to plug the hole with something, it's not 1/8 NPT, it's 1/8 BSP. if you try to screw a regular pipe thread plug in there you will screw up the threads. also if you try to put the sender in the thermostat housing, you will need a 1/8 bsp tap after you tig weld on a bung. good luck getting your hands on the tap I had to wait six months for mine on back order.

[lostforawhile]

I looked at a housing out in the garage, and the one you are screwing it into has a very small hole, I believe it's the bleeder hole, it won't read right there as it's not down in the coolant. the one you are talking about #2 is the temp sender. if you put it in the housing it needs a bung welded on with a 1/8 bsp threaded hole, so the end of the sender is in the moving coolant. you need the bleeder to get air out of the system.

[Oldblueaccord]

All 10mm (bolt head) bolts are in place and I have run in extra ground wires straight to the battery ground.....thanks for mentioning it....
---------------------------------------
Manifold holes....
On the back/side of the manifold there are 5 holes...
1-Water hose pipe is on Pass side of manifold,
2-small diameter/single pin...might be a temp sender,
3-Blue plastic....once had hoses 17 and 25 going to it.
4-Bigger and on the driver side/corner of manifold.....unknown....it was broken off....nut size is 19mm maybe had hoses 17,18,19 going to it
4-Water hose pipe is on the actual manifold side/corner/driver side.
Presently there is no water going through the water jacket under the carb
and no need to plug any holes....and no need to know the temp of a cold manifold...
-------------------------------------
The small diameter/single pin....might be a temp sender, from (2) above
screws perfectly into one of the 10 oclock position thermostat housing holes.
-------------------------------------
Thermostat housing holes...
Looking from the pass side there are 5 holes with cast bungs...
3 bungs in the 12 oclock position......first one is the air bleed, 2 others are sealed off.
In the 10 oclock position there are 2 cast bungs....
First 10 oclock position has an aftermarket temp gauge with adapter...
Second 10 oclock position has the small diameter/single pin...might be a temp sender..................and this is where I would run the stock temp sender
wire
ito if someone can tell me the color of the wire.....-Bob

https://www.3geez.com/forum/efi-tech...t=Temp+sensors

look thru these pictures and see what you think.

[lostforawhile]

https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthrea...t=Temp+sensors

look thru these pictures and see what you think.


wp

good info, so the FI cars have the sender in the housing? i was making sure it would work right there,since i have to have a place for mine, is it the same sender or is it different to account for a different placement. i'll have to put a bung on mine there in the same location, it's already modified for threaded fittings. the water passage it would go in isn't there anymore. I have the 1/8 bsp tap so i can thread it properly.

[senor honda]

All openings mentioned in the t-stat housing which I have already have bungs.

I cannot say what was originally in the housing.....the sender was originally in the carb water jacket in the back....(as stated, there is no water there now), so I have screwed the temp sensor into a hole which it fits into.

It might be easier/cheaper to just get another t-stat housing with the bung already there....-Bob

good info, so the FI cars have the sender in the housing? i was making sure it would work right there,since i have to have a place for mine, is it the same sender or is it different to account for a different placement. i'll have to put a bung on mine there in the same location, it's already modified for threaded fittings. the water passage it would go in isn't there anymore. I have the 1/8 bsp tap so i can thread it properly.

[senor honda]

I looked at the pics and have determined that I have something that does not appear in the pictures.......I have 5 bungs as described previously...-Bob

https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthrea...t=Temp+sensors

look thru these pictures and see what you think.


wp

[lostforawhile]

well this is what it looks like on the car, I found one of my senders finally, this solves an issue I was dealing with for quite a while. I kept the thermowax valve to keep the purge on the canister from coming on until the engine is warmed up. It will bleed off vaccume going to the valve.