I want to upgrade to rear discs in the future. I was wondering if I will see improved braking if I upgrade the prop. valve and the master cylinder? Can I add these parts without doing to rear disc conversion?
I have a 1987 DX hatch.
I want to upgrade to rear discs in the future. I was wondering if I will see improved braking if I upgrade the prop. valve and the master cylinder? Can I add these parts without doing to rear disc conversion?
I have a 1987 DX hatch.
1987 Nineteen Eighty-Seven Honda Accord DX Hatchback
A new master cylinder is always a good investment, especially if you don't know when it was last changed, if ever changed. New fluid is always a good idea.
As for the Prop valve, I personally don't see any reason to do this upgrade without the rear disc conversion.
Phil
maybe you can get the 88-89 master cylinder since its bigger
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
try a better pad and lining material. if you havent had anything resurfaced for a while it could be the surfaces are shiny and the pads slide instead grab. Its a quick easy cheap option to try. Try the how to section of the board for options like type r front brake upgrade, AEM brake kits, legend calipers. You have alot of options since the fronts do most of the work anyways. I would also search for people that just installed there kits and rear what they have said about about it. Good luck and post results either way.
If you search, you'll find where I did some cross referencing and found a 1" bore MC that should bolt right up. It's in one of Legend Master's brake threads.
also try to get some SS lines...i noticed a stiffer pedal when i installed mine
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
All a bigger master is going to do is decrease pedal travel and increase the force needed to to stop. No reason unless you upgrade the calipers... You'd need to change the booster as well.
Does the 87 DX have the 10.3" front brakes? That would be a good parts swap upgrade right there.
wp
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
I think only the reservoir is bigger on the 88-89 LX-i
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
I think he's saying that if he does the rear disc swap, is it absolutely necessary to do the prop valve and master. In that case, I'll say this... Will it still provide decent braking? Yes. Would it be better to do the master and prop along with? Yes. You'll get better bias, and as LX-i pointed out, much better pedal pressure and less travel, so more effective braking.
...but also important... As oldblue pointed out, my FIRST upgrade in the braking department would be to the 88-89 LX-i (or SE-i) from brakes. The calipers are better calipers than the DX/LX (all years) and 86-87 LX-i, and use a larger rotor. More braking surface = more efficient with heat dissipation and longer life. The larger rotor puts the braking surface out at a larger radius which gives better leverage on stopping as well. This, much like the rear disc swap, will require the swap of the whole knuckle and hub assembly. The knuckles have different mounting points/locations for the larger caliper, and the hub diameter is different as well (I think).
-Mark D.
The master cylinder is the same for all years and models. The difference is in the bigger tank for the larger caliper pistons.
You can just swap the tank on your current master cyl if you want.
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
quick question. Which prop valve has the most rear brake bias? I'm using my dx one right now, but I've got an se-i I can throw on there if it puts more pressure towards the rears.
Lostforawhile:we have to pick on him he's CAH he spray painted himself into this corner with the accord.
look on the side and they are marked. I think the sei says 60/40.
the numbers have nothing to do with braking percentage, the sei is a 4040 valve. it doesn't mean 40% front and 40% rear. I have yet to find a conclusive answer as to what the numbering means. You know it's not a percentage because what happened to the rest of the 100%, 4040 only accounts for 80. stock i think is a 3040 or 2530 something to that extent.
a 4040 is what you need for rear disks. period. period. get it?
dead white and blue
or just get yourself one of these:
http://www.southernrods.com/categori...duct-2166.html
or these:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-8419
....or if you just feel like blowing too much money on a 'Summit branded' propo valve, which is a knock-off of the first one I linked, you can always get this:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/SUM-G3910
-Mark D.
yeah you could always do something like that, but i don't believe in a street car something like that would ever be necessary. you could find an se-i valve (hint in the classifieds) or you can as phil seems to suggest, buy an integra 4040 even though they don't bolt in correctly.
dead white and blue
What about the prelude 35/40. These cars are very close to the accord Sei brake setup and you can find the valves at any bone yard for cheap.
Mike C in NC USA
Lx-incredible is right , when i upgraded my front brakes i tried using the stock 87 MC, barely had any braking force, got the 88/89 15/16" Mv and it works great. Also to add to marks comment , the knuckles for the front ARE different, if i remember right it is a spacing issue with the caliper /rotor , it doesn't line up right and you can use the 86/87 front brake lines, you will have to make extension bolts to mount the brake line. IMO the 88/89 brakes are a worthwhile upgrade, and designed better too, 2 bolts rather than 1 and a floating pin
1989 Accord Lx-i hatchback (current DD project)
1986 Olds Cutlass 442 clone (never ending project)
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