making an adapter for the oil pressure sender

[lostforawhile]

post part 1

I'm making this for a member on here, so I thought I would make a technical post of it.
This is an adapter that will mount on the firewall, this allows oil pressure from the warning switch port, to travel to the firewall, a warning switch sender to screw in, then on to the gauge in the car. It's made from 3/4 bar stock aluminum

I found center already on one end on the turret lathe, this is drilling out the oil passage that runs through it

squaring the ends on the bridgeport

finding center

marking the center hole and holes for the screws

holes center punched

holes drilled

screw holes counter bored

[lostforawhile]

POST PART 2

I use the drill press to start the tap by hand, to make sure it's square


finishing tapping the threads

adapter and pipe thread plugs for pressure testing

pressure testing at 130 psi

finished part, mounts to firewall and warning light switch screws in

[Civic Accord Honda]

very baller, reminds me i still need to pick up an oil psi guage

[lostforawhile]

this is how it would connect at the oil filter, the only difference is there would be an adapter between the fitting you see here and the oil filter housing

this is how the other end would go at the firewall side, the line to the oil pressure gauge comes out the other side.

[lostforawhile]

i'm figuring prices and thinking of making these not sure yet, working on one for someone right now on an experimental basis

[lostforawhile]

Ok useful info, if you change your oil pressure sender over to retain the gauge and warning light, you can use one from an MG, here's one link, they are all over ebay for around 5 bucks. they come on at a higher pressure then 3 psi, and they are a single wire just like factory. should be the same for any MG, or MGB or sprite. I think this is what I used. rock auto has one like it too, just order for the sender for any year MG, should be around five dollars too. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MG-MI...sQ5fLiterature

[lostforawhile]

this is the setup on my accord , pardon the dirt it will be repainted

block with sender switch and lines from engine oil pressure and to

oil pressure line with feed through at firewall



feed through into cabin for gauge

[Civic Accord Honda]

Nice! i really need to do something like this, my oil light was flickering on start up today for a couple of seconds

[lostforawhile]

i'm going to possibly start making them, 45 bucks including shipping. I might break even at that rate. thats including the 30 percent discount for three geez members. these are hand made and take some time to make each one, I don't exactly have a CNC machine or anything. that includes the hose which i have a limited supply of, and one 90 degree -4 to AN fitting. one straight -4 to AN fitting, and the high quality brass fitting for copper line to the gauge. I may have to go up in price though, I sold the first one for that price, I just about break even. prototype first parts are always cheaper. I can make them with 1/8 npt for the warning light sender, or 1/8 bsp to fit the factory sender.

[AccordEpicenter]

very nice piece, i like the idea. I went with one of these for simplicity and complexity reasons. Very nice all steel piece

http://www.stealthmodeperformance.co...blockfit.shtml

[Ichiban]

I can make them with 1/8 npt for the warning light sender, or 1/8 bsp to fit the factory sender.

I'm planning on doing both. Run the line off of the filter base to the distribution block on the firewall, with the factory sender on one side, and the pressure gauge fitting on the other. Where do you get BSP taps, anyway? And what do you gauge the threads to, 3-5 turns standoff hand tight?

Edit: I see you have a sensitive quill on that bridgeport. You should be able to drill and power tap the holes in one setup with that.

[lostforawhile]

I'm planning on doing both. Run the line off of the filter base to the distribution block on the firewall, with the factory sender on one side, and the pressure gauge fitting on the other. Where do you get BSP taps, anyway? And what do you gauge the threads to, 3-5 turns standoff hand tight?

Edit: I see you have a sensitive quill on that bridgeport. You should be able to drill and power tap the holes in one setup with that.

yea i normally would, but it was in use, i just drill the holes normally with an R, then I use a pipe thread reamer, and hand tap them. as far as the BSP tap, I got it from MSC industrial supply, it was backorderd for six months while I waited on it, I just drill and tap and use a 1/8 pipe thread ramer just like 1/8 NPT, the only difference is the BSP has 1 extra thread per inch