88 Accord Timing Adjustment

[Xaisk]

Alright.

I have a cheap 40 dollar (not so cheap) Timing Light. The timing light is one of the styles without the digital display and only flashs the light.

How do I adjust the timing on the vehicle useing that?

I want to make sure that after I put the Weber on, that the timing will be properly adjusted.

The inside of the chamber, (where you shine the light on) has 2 black lines above a red line in the middle, and below that red line, 2 more black lines.

Right now I have it lined up as good as I can get it to the red line. It doesnt seem to stay directly lined up, but will slightly change its placement with each rotation.

Common sense would dictate that the red line is what should be lined up, however I could be wrong. I looked at the VECI label under the hood and it gave me a number to adjust it to, but that doesnt really help me.

[nswst8]

Automatic or manual?

Either way you have and inductive timing light. Easy to use. I have had mine for like 30 years.

Ensure your lead to your #1 spark plug is in the right direction, should be an arrow on the lead this points towards the spark plug.

Point you lighht in the direction of the pointer in your timing window. DO NOT NOT PLUG THE DISTRIBUTOR VACUUM LINES. Check timing marks.

To adjust loosen distributor bolts and rotate dizzy to adjust timing to specs. Should be displayed on your hood.

[Nafs Asdf]

If the mark on the flywheel keeps moving around, check that the inductive pickup isn't getting any interference, move it so that it's clear from the other wires. I noticed when I did mine that if you have other plug wires going too close to the pickup it won't show right.

[nswst8]

If it is not idling correctly, you will have to ball park it. Until you get the carb adjusted.

Carbuerated engine:

Manual tranmission (@ 800 +/- 50 rpm in neutral)

Manual transmission: 49 state & HI ALT: 24 degrees +/- 2 degrees BTDC (RED)

Manual transmission CALIFORNIA: 20 degrees +/- 2 degrees BTDC (RED)

Automatic transmission: (@ 730 +/- 50 rpm in gear)

All models: 15 degrees +/- 2 degrees BTDC (RED)

[Xaisk]

Mines an automatic.

Yeah. The number didnt help me from my VECI label because Inside the hole that the light shines in there were no numbers haha. Are there supposed to be and its just covered in crud that needs to be cleaned?

[nswst8]

I only wrote the information from the Honda manual. It is referring to the "RED" timing mark as denoted in the perentheses.

It looks that there should be a identifying plate to the left side of the window with the numbers 24 with a line and to the right side is the pointer. The "RED" line on the flywheel should line up with these marks.

Hope this helps.

[Xaisk]

Alright I will check for the numbers on the plate.
I wont be able to do this until I get my new Carb and install it though. My Keihin PoS is out and on display in my room =D

[Dr_Snooz]

Right now I have it lined up as good as I can get it to the red line. It doesnt seem to stay directly lined up, but will slightly change its placement with each rotation.

Sounds like your dizzy is wearing out.

[Xaisk]

You honestly think its my Dizzy wearing out? Its the only part I havent replaced other than Internal engine parts. I was actually thinking about replacing the Dizzy just to be on the safe side.

Ill look into it if im having issues with the Weber. I think its 90 bucks to replace. ez enough.

[Dr_Snooz]

The timing moving around like that would seem to indicate that the dizzy shaft has slop. Check it before replacing, obviously.

[g.frost]

You might also check & adjust the timing belt tension.

[cygnus x-1]

A little bit of timing scatter is probably no big deal but it may indicate a problem. Distributor slop and loose timing belt are prime candidates.

If you're adventurous you could setup a crank fired ignition like I did. Search around here for "EDIS". I've posted about it several times.


C|

[Xaisk]

I checked out the posts about the EDIS. It sounds interesting.
From what I gather the dizzy iggy system is highly inaccurate with the firing timing.

This EDIS thing sounds more accurate which should help alot with fire timing, but would it work in a bone stock or would I have to get an ECU upgrade?

Right now my car is all bone stock but the carb (this friday).

(edit) Id like some more information on what kinds of modifications would have to be done. And installation. Just basic info. Im new with Fabrication. Also I dont have any metal working tools. Just basic ones for working on vehicles. Luckily im a military brat and have access to the Metalworking and Auto working places on the base for super cheap.