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Last edited by rebuild; 06-10-2010 at 09:20 PM. Reason: put this in the wrong place! moved to better place
Stickied.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Okay, I've experimented, and the Wagner QuickStop pads on the car now do NOT wobble and haven't for the 1000 miles or so that they've been on. The previous pads wobbled like mad. Then I replaced them with Beck Arnley ceramic pads. The Beck Arnley pads were terrifying and dangerous. The front end wobbled so bad I was afraid to drive it. They also heated up under the lightest load and faded bad. I put the previous set of pads back on (the very ones that were wobbling before) and they didn't wobble anymore. They had an occasional wobble toward the end of their life, but nothing like before. The current Wagners are doing good.
The rotors have not been turned during this time. So in my case at least, the wobble has been from pad deposition and not rotor warpage.
Last edited by Dr_Snooz; 05-29-2019 at 07:07 PM.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
I didn't read the articles above but snooz I wonder if the two pads on the one rotor are gripping inconsistently around the rotor. Say the left pad is gripping better than the right would it pull the wheel left? I wonder if it does this uneven grip several times around the rotor rotation. This could explain why resurfacing the rotor fixes the problem because you are creating a even grip area around the rotor, it could explain switching pads caused it not to wobble. And in your case maybe the Beck and arnley pads did a little rotor resurfacing and fixed the rotor before you put the old pads back on.
1988 Honda Accord LSDX-I
There is where brake compound makes a difference.
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
I couldn't say really. To the best of my knowledge, the front calipers are original. The rears are junkyard scores. I'm sure there is a lot of slop in everything, so it could be causing problems in the way you describe. I agree that the Beck Arnley pads scoured the rotors clean. That's the least they could do, given that they didn't work at all for braking. The brake system is another sub-system due for a major refresh after I've done the steering. That should eliminate any residual problems from uneven grabbing, etc. I'm not sure when I'll get to it, but it's on the list.
I was following up on my pledge in a previous post here to experiment with pad types. There was a debate in this thread as to whether brake wobble was caused by pad compound or rotor warping. I seem to have the worst problem with it, and I wanted to see if changing pad compounds would make a difference. It does. It does.
The moral of the story is that if you're having a lot of brake wobble, change your pad compound.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
I tried ceramic pads and let me tell you they are not worth it. The ONLY nice thing is there is zero dust. Pads I have aren't even 6 months old and already causing problems. Pass rotor is warped bad.
I really am pushing to go for those Wilwoods cause this is the 2nd set of calipers and 3rd set of pads I've gone through and the stock stuff just isn't cutting it anymore. Either I get warped rotors or pads that wear unevenly or sticky calipers that cause one side to wear faster than the other.
Can't blame the master cylinder cause it's new, booster is in great shape, and prop valve is fine.
Hydraulic hoses on all 4 wheels were replaced 6 months ago as well so can't blame those.
I think it's time to ditch the made in china crap.
Originally posted by ShiRen:
Nice car or not, nobody likes losing a race to an old 4 door Honda.
Replace your entire caliper assembly if you haven't (caliper, guide pins and mounting bracket). Your guide pins are hanging up. If you inspect them, you'll probably find that they are worn badly. You should be cleaning and re-greasing them as part of any pad replacement, if you don't know that already. Unfortunately, if your guide pins are really bad, they'll chew up the bushings and leave a lot of slop in the caliper which causes unpredictable braking, weird pedal feel, etc. It will be an ongoing mess. Hopefully the rebuilder replaces all that before selling you the parts so you can get the problem properly solved.
You want this:
Not this:
I'm actually pretty gentle on brakes. I always brake early. I try to use engine and clutch braking as much as possible and prefer to go fast around a corner (flinging my groceries all over the car) than to brake into it. The ongoing brake wobble has me pretty perplexed and it could very well be that I have some guide pin bushing slop contributing to this too. There just comes a point where you have to pull all that old stuff out and replace it with new parts.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
All the links just goto the Stoptech homepage now.
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
13,000 miles on the Wagners with ZERO wobble. I'm running them on multiple cars and have ZERO wobble on any car anymore. Thank goodness!
I did find a warped rotor in the 4g recently. (It was a rear rotor, oddly). It was beyond the service limit, which thinking back, is the only time I've ever had rotors warp.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Waggy rotors or the pads?
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
The Wagner pads are probably the best metallic pads you can get because I don't think EBC makes stock pads for us. Rotors are pretty much just rotors
I am also using Wanger pads... Couldn't tell you how long theyve been there. 5k, 10k, I have for sure slept since then. I don't monitor my pad life because I use them very conservatively and I just replace them whenever I feel like.
https://www.summitracing.com/search/...tOrder=Default
Summits list EBC for the D409 pad for the 10.3 inch rotors cars.
EDIT:
I have been a pretty big fan of the EBC brake pads over the years,burned thru many a Green stuff. I currently have Yellow stuff on the Honda and on my SRT Jeep and I am not as impressed. They are not any better than the Brembo pads on my Jeep except they dust less.
On the Honda they do grip better the hotter they get but its nearly impossible to get them hot enough to notice unless Im on the Dragon and abusing my brakes on purpose.
1988 Lxi owner since August 1995
336k miles running strong!
Now running E85.
Oldblueaccord <<< MY YOUTUBE PAGE!
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