losts wiring harness projects in the hatch

[lostforawhile]

it's not painted black yet, but this is the new key surround, the small hole is for a small led, it comes on to let me know the transponder recognizes the key. now to install the key surround, I need to install the bottom half first, then the key surround, tighten the set screws from above, then the top half, then the instrument surround.





the new ignition wiring

[Ichiban]

Three jaws are gay.

[lostforawhile]

Three jaws are gay.

well it's a pain in the ass to change out to a four jaw, whan the machine has to be used for other things, the four jaws haven't been used in so long they are probably rusted up

[catalin]

Trying to follow along, but I can't quite figure out what you're building here?? Sorry for being a little forward but it looks quite messy.

[lostforawhile]

Trying to follow along, but I can't quite figure out what you're building here?? Sorry for being a little forward but it looks quite messy.

it won't look that way when it's done, I'm trying to work on it a bit a time, the main thing i'm waiting on is the heater core, it's on the way, once I get that, the new dash can go in, and I can start putting stuff back together. it's a real pain to do, since I can't open the doors all the way in the garage, I have to put the car on the ground, then get help to push it up the grade and out of the garage, then swap dashes, then roll it back in, My wife and I have both been in the hospital and sick, so not much has got done

[lostforawhile]

this is the new headlight connector for the left side headlight, I would reccomend replacing both, with the abuse they get with the pop up lamps, that bit of harness can fail



I had to use the original grommet and clip, these are important to keep the harness in the correct position,




this was the othe day out there in the freezing cold



working on the cleaned up harness in the left fender well, these grounds are important so they have to be good,

cleaned to bare metal



silicone dielectric grease on the bare metal and on the ring connectors to prevent corrosion





left side headlight relays, with the two relays per light, you maintain the safety redundency, but take all the current load off of the switch, it's also ready for an H4 conversion, the relays aren't secured yet

[lostforawhile]

i finally got around to removing the center console yet again and installing the RFID reader, even if you know where it is, you have to turn things on in a specific sequence or the ignition system will never power up. you can't do a thing though without starting the sequence with the transponder. it came with two in the kit

[lostforawhile]

I pulled the oil cooler out so I can clean up wiring and paint that side, I forgot what a son of a bitch it is to get that thing out.




it definitly needs cleaning up


can someone identify this relay? the square one? I know it's not a light motor relay, they are next to the radiator



90 percent of this harness will be gone, i need the wires for the alternator plug, oil pressure sender, temp gauge, and back up lights, thats about it

[87roach]

I remember removing that relay for my efi swap.. sorry I know that's not much help.

[lostforawhile]

I think thats the EFE heater relay for the carb, can someone confirm?, more done, I needed a place to mount the headlight fuses that wasn't in the way, since the oil cooler was out, and I needed to paint the base anyway, I figured out I could add a plate to the oil cooler base, everything is mounted on a fabricated battery tray that bolts to the old bracketry.

plate sheared and ready to weld

parts blasted

welding plate to oil cooler base

fuse holder

[lostforawhile]

any ideas on that relay?

[lostforawhile]

does anyone remember the color codes on the temp sender and the oil pressure sender? every wire diagram i've got is missing those two for some reason. I took apart the engine harness to trace everything I need, and the south with it's heat, is not good to engine wiring, I think it's the sustained underhood temps all year around. all of the tape is just baked,as well as all the loom cover. I would tell anyone to replace that alternator wire, mine got so hot over the years, you can't even bend it within four inches of the alternator terminal. They really should have run 6 gauge wire with the distance it has to travel, 8 gauge is just on the edge of being too small. I think if a new alternator primary wire was run, you would see improved performance as far as the electrical, due to less loss in the wire. the alternator isn't bad as far as output, but the primary lead is undersized. it's not fused eithier, there is a fuse between the battery and fuse box, but the alternator lead goes directly into the bus bypassing the fuse. this is why it's important to fuse the alternator for a remote battery, if it shorted in factory configuration, the battery fuse in the underhood fuse box would blow , if it's a remote battery it's different

[Civic Accord Honda]

this thread makes me suicidal.

[lostforawhile]

bump. can someone tel me the wire colors of the temp sender and the oil pressure switch?

[Dr_Snooz]

Oil pressure sender is yellow/red. What temp sender are you asking about? The one for the gauge, the fans or the ECU?

[lostforawhile]

Oil pressure sender is yellow/red. What temp sender are you asking about? The one for the gauge, the fans or the ECU?

the gauge, I have everything else, about 90 percent of that engine harness is going to go away, most off it is plugged into three plugs near where the battery would go, the light motor wiring is seperate, as is the fan wiring, I know which wire would have gone to the heater for the cab base, so I'll just use my meter to see if it goes to that mystery relay, I think it has a main fuse on it, so i can use it for power to the headlight fuses I put in, once I get this area cleaned up, i'll paint it just like the othe side

[car6289]

Definitely the EFE relay. Wires to/from it are in two connectors, one connector white & white/red (muscle) the other connector is blue & black (control).

coolant temp sender to gauge is yellow/green.

[lostforawhile]

Definitely the EFE relay. Wires to/from it are in two connectors, one connector white & white/red (muscle) the other connector is blue & black (control).

coolant temp sender to gauge is yellow/green.

thanks, another relay to get rid of , i need to pull everything out from under the fender and get rid of all the unneeded wires. all I need are the starter solonoid wire , wires to the alternator, temp sender wire, and oil pressure switch wires, plus the back up light wires. the headlight motor wires and cooling fan wires will get re wrapped

[lostforawhile]

does someone know if the main fuse marked PTC goes to anything else other then the EFE heater? I pulled it from the fuse box, and the only continuity i can get on any pin in the fuse box is for the wire going to the EFE relay, that wire is the same gauge as the wires feeding the headlight circuits, I don't think I'll need 40 amps to feed the fuses for the headlights though, since all that main fuse would be powering are eithier two high or two low beams, and not the parking lamps, the 30 amp fuse in there should be enough. the reason I bypassed the current from the switch is mainly, the switch is discontinued, and they have a tendency to burn contacts, it's overloaded from sealed beams, let alone h4 conversions. this has the switch only switching the current for the parking lamps, and the relays for the headlights. it's much eaisier to replace a relay then a hard to find switch

[car6289]

PTC 30 amp fuse #24 (haven't figured out what the letters stand for yet) provides +12 vdc power to the EFE heater and it would appear nothing else is on this circuit.

[lostforawhile]

PTC 30 amp fuse #24 (haven't figured out what the letters stand for yet) provides +12 vdc power to the EFE heater and it would appear nothing else is on this circuit.

thanks, I couldn't trace it to anything else, I'll use it as a main fuse for the headlights, it's the same gauge wire out of the plug. That relay may come in handy for something else later, I'll save it and the double connector plugs

[lostforawhile]

I'll go out later and pull everything out of that side and start cleaning, then getting rid of excess wires

[lostforawhile]

does someone have a parts car with the headlight relays and harness on it? I pulled out the relays and one is partially melted as is the harness plug into it, It might have been from the engine fire I had a few years ago, it was working but needs to be replaced. there are two different plugs, I think the relays are the same. I believe one is for up, and one for down. the one I need has the three black wires, a white/blue stripe, white /green stripe and a blue wire. they all have dots on them, but those are the colors. I need a relay and pigtail. There are no three geez in the yards here right now. the relays are right beside the radiator on the passenger side, you undo one bolt, and one is hid behind the other

[Dr_Snooz]

the gauge, I have everything else, about 90 percent of that engine harness is going to go away, most off it is plugged into three plugs near where the battery would go, the light motor wiring is seperate, as is the fan wiring, I know which wire would have gone to the heater for the cab base, so I'll just use my meter to see if it goes to that mystery relay, I think it has a main fuse on it, so i can use it for power to the headlight fuses I put in, once I get this area cleaned up, i'll paint it just like the othe side

Temp gauge sender is yellow/green.

EDIT: guess I'm late to this party. Lost, I'm going to send you the ETM. It's for the '89 model year, but I think it will help you anyway.

[lostforawhile]

Temp gauge sender is yellow/green.

thanks!! was there a plug over the reverse switch? it looks like i can just solder wires to the tabs and heat shrink, probably more secure anyway.