everything is out and ready to get cleaned and painted, i just have to pull the wires out from under the fender, then start scrubbing. took the radiator out, so i can scrub and paint around that area. I have 13 inches between my bench and the tire to work in. going to be fun, YAY!
I think tomorrow I'm going to clean that garage for one thing, the radiator, and front bumper will go in the house to protect them, i have a room full of parts, and it's so small out there, there's no where to put anything
Dr.Snooze you rock!! electrical trouble shooting manual!!! I have all the wires out under the fender, so tomorrow time to start pruning
I read the entire manual cover to cover, great stuff, it's interesting that the carbed engine has no rev limiter, but the ac compressor does, it's built into the ac delay box, you may blow the engine, but the ac will be just fine.also to whoever came up with the dumb idea to make the lights flip out of sync by rapidly pushing the button, they use dynamic braking, so continued use of that will ruin the control unit.
strange, the later models, even the manual ones have a start relay by the multifunction box, explains the functional clutch switch, but the early ones don't. but have the clutch switch. This would explain the 86-87 models with so many burned start contacts in the switch, maby thats why the relay was added. I added one anyway for my pushbutton start. you guys also get a trailer connector, even the hatchbacks . it's the six pin connector at the back not connected to anything, probably tucked behind a panel.
Lostforawhile is geeking out on the ETM hard CORE!
Glad you're enjoying it.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Lost,are you still out of work?
un-motivated!
someone make me an offer i just could not say no to.
3GR
yep and out of unemployment, trying to get on at oil dry, they pay good and good benifitsOriginally Posted by 89T
I didn't get a chance to work on it, but i will be out there tomorrow. I can't paint until it warms up and we had a cold snap. everything is ready to sort out, some of the harness will stay the same, just get inspected,new split loom, and tape.
supplies ready to go
out there working on it now, looks like i'll be able to replace the headlight retractor motor relays with standard 5 pin bosche type. I thought it might have been the type of relay that retained it's state, but looks like the standard single pole double throw type. i need to get a couple of 5 pin relay sockets is all. if anyone needs help with their headlight motors let me know, now that i have a clear circuit diagram, I can help you. just standard motor control stuff.
they do some really strange things in this harness. have it all figured out though, you just need a good wiring diagram. A wire tuck is one thing, but I wouldn't reccomend getting this deep into the harness unless you know what you are doing. I've been doing this since I was a kid so probably close to 27 years. It looks a mess but it all makes complete sense if you understand what you are looking at. interesting note, if you don't know how the alternator light works, the voltage regulator controls voltage by rapidly switching the voltage on and off to the field coil. it's eithier on + or off grounded. one side of the lamp is connected to + whenever the key is on, the other side is connected to the field, when the system is charging + voltage from the coil is connected to the other side of the lamp, and no current flows, if it stops charging, that changes to - and the lamp comes on. the positive voltage from field also powers the coil on the automatic choke, if your alternator quits, your choke closes, what a design. they've been like that on Hondas as long as I can remember. the positive voltage from the field also tells the oil flasher unit it can operate if needed, and lets the carb control unit know it's working. the FI computer has an extra wire on the alternator to do this, both carb and FI sense RPM from the ignition as well
Last edited by lostforawhile; 11-29-2010 at 12:45 AM.
Thank W261W261 for letting me tear apart and scan his ETM. Thank you W261W261!Dr.Snooze you rock!! electrical trouble shooting manual!!! I have all the wires out under the fender, so tomorrow time to start pruning
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
When I can i will sign up for a basic hosting site and host the manual in the technical section. I'm sure you can get a basic subscription for a few bucks a month. I discovered several wires in the harness have the same colors, so i'm tracing them to make sure I have the right ones. it's just a matter of putting the meter on audiable continuity, grounding one probe, and grounding the wire at the device in question. when you hear it, it's the right wire.
when these wires get insulated, i'm using two layers of heat shrink, then taping them. this is the starter solonoid wire. if you ever see an old weller soldering gun, get it, the heavy duty ones, the new ones are crap. I think i paid 5 bucks for mine at the pawn shop, they thought it was broke, the screws holding the tip were loose. the lights in them never work.
since I don't have ac, i'm using the old ac delay box to prevent the voice box from talking during the bulb check when you turn on the ignition. gives you a five second on delay
came in for a quick break, it's 2:23 am here, got a lot done, I'm trying to reuse what I can, I used the old 7 pin weathertight connector from the AC for oil pressure switch, temp sender, backup lights, the two wires that let me override the fan temp switch, and something else, i need to look at my notes, it's odd that the alternator uses heavy wires for the plug all the way to the multi pin connector, then it changes to light gauge wire on the other side. I reused the old heavy connecter from the EFE heater to pull power from the main fuse for it, to my headlight fuse block. most everything is wrapped, but i still need to cover unused wires and wrap the center section of the harness, They don't make split loom that big, so I'll cut a section from some small innertubes to cover it, for abrasion resistance. back out there as soon as I have caffeine.
I cleaned up my back room in the house, so parts that are removed are now in the house, that gives me more room to work. I'm going to go out there and start cleaning, I FINALLY found my good cleaner, so i can scrub down that area and paint it. it takes a couple of days for the paint to dry, so I need to get it done, then i can put these nice cleaned up harnesses back in, the fuse box back in, and the oil cooler assembly back in. that bottle of cleaner has been under the house for four years, i also found my missing power steering pump , not my good one, but my old one
what model Weller would you suggest?
1986 Accord LXi 3-door
1968 Chevy C20
I have an older commercial model, they are around you just have to look. I think it's a 200/260 watt model good iron it was a USA made one, I think they are made in China now
got everything scrubbed and painted, I'll post pictures after a while, it's pouring rain right now, I don't know long it will take that paint to dry, it's like tractor paint, good for areas like the underhood, I'm doing a section at a time, and eventually everything under the hood will be painted. I had it color matched to factory, The person mixing it at the hardware store said the same thing that they said mixing the paint for the body, boy this paint has a lot of blue in it. you would never know. it may take a couple of days to dry like the other side.
I'll take pictures of everything painted tomorrow, I did take a couple of pics of the overflow tank while it was out. it'll be nice to see all these parts i made in there with fresh paint, instead of dirt
the cleaner was under my house for 4 years i thought it was gone.
Dude, do you really think you'll be running by summer? I've been on the board over 3 years and your car has been in production the whole time! I'm excited for you bro!
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
i'm going to put everything back together and see where i need to go from there i know the carbs will be the big issue, i'm going to watch for an already rebuilt set from an early z car, they will bolt right up, linkages and all. basically the same thing.
in a couple of days that paint will take on the sickly yellow white of the factory paint, the other side matches really well , once it's set, i'll put these harnesses back in and reinstall everything
well it's 2:24 am and 40 degrees and i'm out here working with shirtsleeves,
the harness is all bundled back up and pulled back into the engine compartment. I still have a few wires to add plugs to, i'm going to have to run to walmart to get extra long wire ties to secure the wire bundle.
checking clearance for the wiring for the headlights
I have to repaint the catch can, but you can see where i had to notch the oil cooler mounting tray to clear
where the bundle goes through the inner fender, it gets wrapped with rubber, i cut up an innertube, and foam like it was factory.
once all this is secured i need to make the engine subharness that plugs into it.
Last edited by lostforawhile; 12-03-2010 at 11:39 PM.
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