I got some more harness stuff done today,most of several modules installed, and the harness built for it and some of the audio system, and part of the harness for the voice warning system.
harness before it went in
rear floor panel installed
bolt that holds down spare tire
tire in place with spacer
cover in place
nice very nice and good to see your working on the hatch lost
is that nos on the left?? lol
looks like fun.. i hate running wiring
Originally Posted by CAH
no bazooka
can i use it??
lol
Lmfao. ^^^^
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
it's a good bazooka, from back when they were the shit. I reinforced the tube to get rid of rattles, it's a powered one with the heavy voice coil, ditched the factory internal amp and run it off of an old school Sony amp, and active crossover network.
Last edited by lostforawhile; 03-30-2010 at 05:53 PM.
O i know what you saying my buddy had 4 of them all together and wow it was killer dude.
i was leaning towards shy's reply. I think he might as a weapon CAN I USE IT LOL
200+ ALL MOTOR LS VTEC
yep,thats why the warning decal on it lol
oh is that what it is lol jk i knew what it was lol just messing around rendon and damn tim looks like alot of work went into this i think i would get a headache trying to figure out on how you did it
I just got the radio remote interface box from ebay for ten bucks, guy bought it to adapt some steering wheel controls and never used it. it's the PAC SWI-X , I still need to use my relay box I built, on a steering wheel with remote buttons and a positive output, it sends 12 volts to the radio and each button has a resistor in line with it. this produces a different voltage depending on which button is pushed. On my setup with the mirror button, i have a bunch of different wires with 12 volts i need to use the relay box and diodes to separate the mirror switch into eight outputs. the mirror switch switches the eight relays on and off. I just need to connect 12 volts common to all of them, then each output gets a resistor of a different value. You can't connect the box directly to 12 volts in. you need between 1k and 20k in resistance per voltage input.
that spare tire doesn't look very trustworthy sir, the braids are showing O.o
1988 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe 123k miles.
im waiting on the fire extinguisher mod.. rofl
guulod thats alot of shtuff Tim..and pwned by
CAH about the donut spare
still love ya bro..
Last edited by 2oodoor; 03-31-2010 at 03:15 PM.
yea i know it's just a bad tire off of the civic to see how everything fits.
thats been done,it's the vaccume bottle, it's since i will have a little bit lower vaccume with the dual carbs and the cam. it's for the brake booster
anyone have a lot of resistors around? There is nowhere to buy any here now.
in order to make the radio remote adapter work, i need about ten resistors of different values, starting about 1k and anything up to 20k values aren't important, just ten different values with a decent difference between each one. i have to wire the ten relays with 12 volts common then each relay output gets a different resistor. this is how the unit knows what button you pushed.
I have the resistors, bought a huge grab bag of electronic parts from ebay, has every kind of component in it I could imagine, it's like Christmasten bucks, i probably have a thousand diodes and resistors alone now. in addition to every other kind of component I could ever want.
holy crap its been a while lost! Dude this is awesome man, I gotta see what youve been doing with the car recently.
2006 NASA/VCU regional Semi-finalist
2006 FIRST Robot Rumble Quarter-finalist
2006 FIRST Robot Rumble - Most Promosing Rookie Drive team.
2006 Championship Curie division
2007 NASA/VCU- Regional Winner
2007 Championship-Galileo
74+ matches on the feild
I'm waiting for cooler weather to go work out there, it's been nearly 100 almost every day this summer, just impossible to work.
some updates,just been working on the car to not think about my life self destructing, pardon the fact it's dirty, it eventually will get cleaned. there isn't much point in cleaning it until it's done. I had to do some grinding to the cross bar under the glove box, for those not familiar to this car, on mine, it also holds the bell crank assembly for the choke cable, as well as some other items, it's been heavily reinforced with steel, I was having minor clearance issues with the courtesy light I put in, I also added another aluminum cross drilled piece,it holds three relays in a slide out box, and will hold the clamp for the choke cable from the dash side.
cross bar, slighty modified
this is about where the msd box will sit
coil,and all i had to do was use a spark plug boot end to fit on it
you can see how little of the relay box sticks out
Last edited by lostforawhile; 10-19-2010 at 09:55 PM.
spent a couple of dollars buying a used dvd at the pawn shop, and i asked how much this was, no one knew if it worked so she gave it to me, one nine volt later and one fuse and I now have a working sperry meter.
laying out a pattern for the box, I found a stack of heavy wax card stock folders in my garage when i moved in, everything in there dated from the 40's, best pattern material in the world, too bad they don't make it anymore, I've looked, I'll have to make it last.
Last edited by lostforawhile; 10-19-2010 at 09:56 PM.
I have the underdash fuse panels in place in the passenger footwell, I found out ace 8 gauge connectors from ace are crap, the terminals are worthless, also it's 8 gauge stranded, so it fits a 6 gauge connector, My regular crimpers are worthless, and the rachet crimpers are at work, so I ended up making one, two scrap pieces of aluminum, two 5/16 bolts to tighten it, and a 5/16 bolt to make the crimp. put the wire in the crimp connector, tighten the bolts, then tighten the center bolt to make the crimp, release the center bolt, unscrew the holding bolts, and force the connector out with the center bolt, nice round crimp and extremly strong.
Last edited by lostforawhile; 10-22-2010 at 03:17 PM.
I found a couple of heavy duty relays finally, now I can finish the ignition, the key switch does nothing but turn on the accessory, you have to have the key with the transponder in order to have power for the ignition and start. I need to make some wire anchors to secure the wire looms.
I was trying to find a four position fuse block, which I didn't find, but I did find this, it's a bus bar, what i'm going to do is mount it where the square hole is, next to where the emissions box would go. since my battery cable runs though the fender already, i can terminate it at the bus bar, then run the cables to the fusebox,starter,and alternator through the fender, this will hide a lot of wires
I got it all plugged in to the fuse box, and the heavy splices lay horizontal to the bottom of the dash, so they are invisible, it will all follow the original loom to the rear quarters. putting that fuse box back in is a son of a bitch, my legs are still cramping from laying twisted under the dash for so long. just shaking involuntarily, plus i've been out there since 7 last night. time to quit and get some sleep
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