New Engine Break In Procedure ~ With Poll ~

[Tdurr]

drive the car hard, but dont drive it like you stole it. best thing i can say. do the whole start up and idle thing but the motor has to wear in under LOAD(hehe).

as far as manufacturer instructions on new motors, dont listen to them. they just say dont beat on it cuz if something was messed up during assembly they will be able to blame it on your lead foot and not their workers. Thinks of it like this, all the High hp cars being built for drag racing, auto cross, drift, ect. they break those cars in on the FUCKING DYNO. do their cars last for what they want? yes. do they tear them down alot yes. is it because they broke the motor in wrong? NO. its cuz they are sponsored and have new shit they can use.

perfect example of a manufacture sayin covering their own ass is Mazda rotarys and synthetic oil. In the owners manual it says DO NOT USE IT for unknown reasons but yet people use it to this day and have never had a problem caused by the oil it self. Its one of the rumors started in the 60-70 that any synthetic oil kills rotary's oil seals but the quality and ingredients in oil have drastically changed so there is no harm in using them.

So to the ppl saying drive it like a baby, grow some balls and drive you "sports car" like its meet to be.
/thread.

[Hail Doom]

This poll is a year old.
Methinks that it is time for a new one.

[MessyHonda]

dont think so...if you have any input write it here

[Tdurr]

lol soooo loooking at the results of the poll, most(is not all) the active members who have some good experience under their belt say the same thing

[d_moss]

Never built honda motors but I have build some 11 second 4g63s. I prefer the accelerate and decelterate method. dont BEAT on it. but run it like you normally would but will more down shifting to pull lots of vacuum. Again use good judgement. 100mph 5th gear to 1st gear is not good for anyone. But like 50mph then let off the gas and slow down then down shift ect. I would change the oil at less than 500 miles. Never have really long idles. Like 20 mins and such thats not good for any motor.

[lostforawhile]

I wanted to clear up a misconception about break in in this thread, and explain why this procedure works,
first, you MUST hone an engine between every ring change, when a hone is run through the engine, it raises a specific cross hatch pattern above the surface of the cylinder, this cross hatch pattern of raised metal, is what causes the new rings to seat properly, once this raised metal is gone, if the rings aren't seated, they will never seat, if this happens, the engine must be torn down, and re honed yet again. if you baby the engine during the break in period, the rings may not seat properly, if you tear down an engine, and see a cross hatch pattern, what you are seeing is the pattern BELOW the surface of the metal, the raised part that breaks in the rings, is long gone.
the second reason for honing, is the walls become glazed over time, this glaze must be broken by honing. the big debate is, if you don't push the car enough the rings won't seat, if you push it too much, the walls will glaze, and the rings won't seat. it's a fine line in the middle.

here's a great drawing showing the three different conditions of the cyl walls

[AccordB20A]

bringing this thread back since i have recently run in my motor, i used the give it shit technique. pretty much full throttle full decel varying the revs heaps but not revving the shit out of it. took it for a blast down some winding hilly roads to make it work with some good hills to "engine brake" down

Ive done 250kms so far and all is well. no smoke etc etc

[1GCustomAccord]

I

[1GCustomAccord]

Best break in procedure:

After first start gently rise up the revs to 1500 and then down to idle for 10 minutes.

Then you can shut it down and check that everything is ok (fluid levels etc)

You can drive it now but dont take anyone in your car, only driver for the first 100km, if possible go on a short trip in a zone with small hills, the idea is not to mantain a steady speed, just press the throttle for a while and let it go for a moment, so the speed keeps changing so all the parts in the cylinder walls and pistons will seat properly. Keep a speed over 50km/h and under 80km/h, dont drive in any gear under 1500 RPM and over 2500 RPM.

Change the oil after 500 km.

The next 1000 km you can take pessengers but continue driving it like stated and your engine will last forever (or untill it explodes).

Change the oil again at 2500km, and then at normal periods.

After all that effort you will have a very long lasting and reliable engine.

The beating up procedure is good to use when you replace piston rings only. I tried it and worked perfectly.

Here the procedure: After the rings change, start the engine, let it work for 3 minutes at fast idle about 1000-1500 RPM, shut it off, check fluids and etc, start again, let it heat to normal operating temperature and take it to the street. Now comes the funny part (i was reluctant to do it the first time but this procedure was proven by many rings manufacturer, and the instructions were clear so it was ok) in first gear (or drive in automatics) press the thottle and accelerate to 4500-5000 RPM and then back to idle. Do this once again and done, no more break in needed (for rings only!).