See the little circle? (the smaller flap circle)
This is the carb from itzdave, I just had it completely rebuilt, and had it converted to mechanical secondary by a friend who works with carbs..
Point being, the little flap is barely open, but shuts completly when I play with the choke lever and accelerator.
Is it supposed to be open a tad bit? I'm confused, I want to put it in tomorrow and I'm kind of worried
ok got the carb in, the flap was same as old carb.
Anyway, can't get the idle to go down now, adjusted idle control screw until car stalls out, and readjusted throttle cable..
No luck, idle sits at 1000ish in D4, and anywhere between 1400-2000 in P or N..
Need some help, this is wasting gas and not really helping the engine be efficient.
(Carb was converted to mechanical secondary fyi, not vac removal, just throttle was adjusted to open primary and secondary with cable not vacum)
Originally Posted by CzEcHy
Make sure the car is completely warm and the ckoke is fully open before you try to adjust the idle. And make sure you got all your vaccum lines hooked up correctly.
Was anything else adjusted to compensate, BEFORE with the old carb on there?
Is the vac line plugged that went to the secondary throttle servo?
Was Ign timing set after warm up?
I despise these oem carbs and controls, it is so hard to remotely advise someone about them, it is even hard in person with the car right there..
To eliminate 90 % issues, before I converted to a weber... I completley removed the choke pull off and seperate fast idle pulloff and actuator. I wired the choke butterfly completley open, and reinstalled some of the screws (holding said hardware) that were needed for other purposes there. The car cranked perfeclty even in 25 degree weather, but I did have to sit with it a few seconds before leaving it to warm up when I went inside for more coffee.
Ok how do you adjust the air jets? A B C.
you should read the vacuum removal thread and consider.also read this... https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=45880
I am of no help because I adjusted my abc valves to the garbage can, they worked fine there.
A20A1, greentea, russiankid somebody? they usually can help some with those oem carb questions.
You can read the pauldesign shop manual too, wow what a read that is on those carb controls oiey, pretty good here too if you need to grasp an understanding somewhat...https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=46572
Last edited by 2oodoor; 04-13-2010 at 03:36 PM.
Eh, neither of those helped about adjusting or where any adjusting things are...
Can anyone tell me where any adjusting points are, besides the black knob on the back of the carb?
Really need to get this adjusted, it runs great besides the weird idle problems..
How was you mechanical secondary set up?
If the throttle shaft screws were put on too tight then it could be causing the throttle plates to be held open.
Is your throttle cable too tight on the carb? If it is loosen or remove it then check the idle.
The black knob will set the opening of the small throttle plate. There are also smaller screws on the same side of the carb, one that adjust fast idle and another screw connected to a diaphragm that adjust idle. Those screws should also be turned out if you suspect they are contributing to the high idle speed.
It could be a vacuum leak ( gasket ) + rich fuel mix that could be bumping the idle. Vacuum leaks can also cause the idle diaphragm to go out of whack.
It could be the float level setting is too high ( this should always be adjusted after a rebuild when the carb is on the car )
It could be the ignition timing is advanced.
Unplug vacuum #5 to the AS valve, plug the vacuum line to avoid vacuum leaks.
Last edited by A20A1; 04-19-2010 at 09:52 AM.
- llia
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