hammer the control arm to shock it loose (put the nut loosely back on just in case you miss the control arm). after a hard hit, or a few, you should be able to just lift it off
i just tried with the hammer and im real strong it didnt even budge ??? Isn't there a special tool for this that will definately work ?
oh i forgot to say to hit the side of the control arm.. did you do that? would probably be easier if you had the shock bolted to the control arm too. i suppose another way could be to put the wheel back on and drop the car violently lol. or just get a special tool like stephen said
it looks like you have the shock off, so put it back on.
its needed for how i do it.
put the nut back on the ball joint a few turns so you dont fuck it hitting it with a hammer.
get a trolley jack and use it to lift up on the bottom of the bit that the wheel mounts to, the bit of the disc that pokes out from the disc is teh bit i mean.
lift up on it enuf to put some load on the spring.
then get a BFH and hit the arm where the ball joint spindle pokes through,just dont hit teh spindle.
if you get it right,with the spring helping by pushing the arm down and the jack is pushing up, the shock of the hammer hit deforms the spindle hole just enough that it comes loose and the combined forces of the jack and spring push it apart enough that you just wind the nut off the end and shes done.
the arm spindle hole dosnt deform permanently , just for the split second when you hit it with the hammer. i use a 36 oz hammer and it works pretty well
i bought one of these, http://cgi.ebay.com/HBM-HEAVY-DUTY-B...item562f1c5777
best 30 dollars i ever spent.
dead white and blue
yes you need to remove that nut. it will take a 32 mm socket i think. turn it counter-clockwise or to the left. the manual says to replace the spindle nut. i didn't,i just hit it with a screwdriver when i got it back on.
well i tried the whole wheel turned even with the brakes down ?
It is a 32mm socket and it is normally threaded. Lefty loosey!
By the by, my dad has an impact chisel + pickel fork = Ball joints come off in 10 seconds or less.
looks like i have to put the wheel back on then take off the nut lol
stick a screwdriver in the rotor or something. it is hard to break loose.
Break that nut with the wheel attached, on the ground. No point in damaging your tools or brakes to save 30 seconds.
Stat1k's tool is an excellent choice for the balljoints; However, a small amount of the tool will need to be ground off to access everything. A pickle fork will almost always result in damage to the balljoint or boot. A few strong hits with the hammer on the side of the spindle/LCA where the balljoint stud seats will ease removal and put less stress on whatever removal tool you choose. Never hammer on the balljoints or their studs.
i stand corrected.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
Here's the best trick to remove the lower balljoint
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ISY8bGof3bQ
Stick a ratchet or socket extension between the lower arm and the knuckle.
No damage to the boot, no pain, no swearing.
You can leave it without a boot but not for long. I wouldn't drive it except to get a new boot from the dealer. This is a critical suspension part in term of security.
http://pages.videotron.com/omus
3geez member since July 12 2000
I need these parts!
https://www.3geez.com/forum/showthread.php?t=67742
edit: nevermind
Last edited by A18A; 04-18-2010 at 01:35 PM.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
I prefer using a Pitman Tie Rod puller to separate the lower ball joint, no risk of damage to the ball joint, available in the loan-a-tool at any autoparts store, and literally takes 30 seconds and is easy as pie.
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