Sanden AC compressor

[Dr_Snooz]

Alright I had a really succesful trip to the junkyard.

I pulled the 2 pipes, the bracket, and the compressor.

http://viewmorepics.myspace.com/inde...lbumID=2115264

Pics there.

The long pipe.

I cut the insulation foam stuff off the outside of the pipe to inspect it for leaks or anything. It was good to go. Is that stuff nessasary?

The compressor.

Im debating on buying a new one or rebuilding this one.
How much is a rebuild kit for the Denso compressor and how difficult is it?

I want your recommendations.

Also your opinions on the condition of it based off the pictures I uploaded. Ill post some better ones later.

No pics?

I don't think the compressor can be rebuilt. I tried rebuilding a Keihin, but there was no kit and the parts inside were so obscure I couldn't find anything to work. I ended up pitching all the pieces in the trash.

You probably do want insulation on the lines that carry your cold freon.

[Xaisk]

Very wierd. I tested the link earlier and it worked but now it doesnt. Heres a repost.


that SHOULD work. I just tested the link and it worked.

Anyway...

I might just chunk the compressor and buy a new one.. its 180.00$

Ill let you take a look at the pics of it that I posted.

For the A/C lines.. How would I go about getting new insulation on it?

you will see what I mean when you look at the pics..

[nswst8]

Split insulation (Home depot, Lowe's) zip tied. Don't make it complicated. It's real easy to over think these things. Keep it simple.

[LX-incredible]

That's the 10PA15E. Be sure to double check that you dont order the 10P15E, unless it comes with the manifold and clutch.

The insulation not only helps to return cool referigerant to the compressor, it also extends hose life by shielding from exhaust heat. You can buy self-adhering split insulation at the local hardware or plumping supply. Be sure to get the dense foam, as it will hold up better to the heat.

Also, if the hoses are too stiff to flex completely straight, they need to be replaced. An auto AC supply or radiator shop will have the correct equipment to replace the rubber and save you quite a bit over OEM.

[Civic Accord Honda]

I'd be very surprised if they left R12 in a car. The environmental regs require them to drain all the fluids before putting them out. What you are probably finding is a pressure differential as a result of temperature changes.

the ones in Bakersfield drains everything but the ones in ridgecrest leave the cars as is lol
they get it as a impound try and sale it if it doesn't sale they park it on the lot and let people start raiding them for overpriced parts

[nswst8]

[QUOTE=LX-incredible;1016261]That's the 10PA15E. Be sure to double check that you dont order the 10P15E, unless it comes with the manifold and clutch.
QUOTE]

Angus, in your opinion. Which is the better or rather what is the difference between them?

[Xaisk]

Kk. I probably need to become more familiar with the hardware store.

The rubber hoses on the pipes are just fine. They flex perfectly so I dont think they are dry-rotted.

The rubber parts of the hoses never had insulation on them. Would it be a good idea to put some on them as well? I personally think so.. and I would rather spend the extra time/money to do it right and make it last as long as I can.

As far as the compressor goes.. Its put me on pause. Gotta rent a tux for prom haha so I have to wait till next Friday before I can order the new one.

I looked at the different compressors when I was shopping around online and noticed that the 10PA15E has a different clutch than the 10P15E. The 10PA15E has a clutch fit for a skinny belt that looks similar to the PS belt on my car. The 10P15E has a wider more traditional looking belt that looks more like the alternator belt.

I specifically looked at that before I went to the junkyard. My harmonic balancer is set for the 10P15E compressor. Id have to swap to a different harmonic balancer to use the 10PA15E.

MY SOURCE

10PA15E

http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.co...RMH191121.html

10P15E

http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.co...RMH191120.html

I honestly dont know if there is a difference on the inside of the compressors because ive never opened one.. nor am I too experienced with them. Those are just the external differenced I noticed.

(edit) Im very satisfied. Cleaned the A/C compressor bracket and installed it in like 5 min. Cleaning it took like 45 minutes. Installing it took 5 min flat no longer.

Got the A/C pipes cleaned up too. All I need is to get that new Denso compressor and install it and ill be set!

[LX-incredible]

Angus, in your opinion. Which is the better or rather what is the difference between them?

The 10PA15E. It's a newer design and slightly more compact. The clutch is easily removed for adjusting the gap or replacing the idler bearing. It uses a one piece manifold with a single seal, instead of two piece with the 7 o-rings the 10P15E has (the kit only includes 4; one of which isn't included in the o-ring kits, usually difficult to find, and costs nearly $20). The other 2 that you'll need many times aren't stocked, so you'll need a second $8 o-ring kit.

All 4 bolts that attach the manifold are used on the PA. The 10P15E only uses 3, as the connection for the discharge is pretty much covers where the 4th would be. I've pulled apart two so far where one of the high pressure o-rings had ruptured on this corner.

[LX-incredible]

I looked at the different compressors when I was shopping around online and noticed that the 10PA15E has a different clutch than the 10P15E. The 10PA15E has a clutch fit for a skinny belt that looks similar to the PS belt on my car. The 10P15E has a wider more traditional looking belt that looks more like the alternator belt.

I specifically looked at that before I went to the junkyard. My harmonic balancer is set for the 10P15E compressor. Id have to swap to a different harmonic balancer to use the 10PA15E.

MY SOURCE

10PA15E

http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.co...RMH191121.html

10P15E

http://cpwstore.carpartswholesale.co...RMH191120.html

Then why did you buy the 10PA15E from the junkyard? I think you need to go back and read everything that we posted...

That is not a picture of a 10PA15E in the first link. The mounting is for use with an idler pulley. All 86-89 Accords use the 4 groove AC belt.

[Xaisk]

Then why did you buy the 10PA15E from the junkyard? I think you need to go back and read everything that we posted...

That is not a picture of a 10PA15E in the first link. The mounting is for use with an idler pulley. All 86-89 Accords use the 4 groove AC belt.

I bought the 10P15E from the junkyard according to the img on the link?
Are the links incorrect or what? Im kind of confused.

I pulled it and probally didnt need the compressor but I thought they might have a rebuild kit that would give me the chance to save a good buck.

(Edit)

Im pretty sure im just going to buy a new Denso, but I couldnt help but look around.

I found a gasket/sealer kit for the A/C system in our cars.

http://www.rockauto.com/
You will have to look your car up but you will find it.
Its VERY VAGUE.

It doesnt say which compressor its for I.E. Keihin or Denso.
nor does it say what pieces come in it.

Very very vague but 10 bucks = alot cheaper than 200
I think im going to just buy a new Denso but I thought some of you all might find it interesting so I would share my find.

[LX-incredible]

You're not listening. If you feel like pulling another compressor for parts, go right ahead.

10PA15E on the left, 10P15E on the right:




10P15E on the left, 10PA15E on the right


The 10P15E has a new 4-seasons clutch, which is an improvement over the rubber ring on the oem, but you get the idea.

[POS carb]

a rebuild nippondenso pa15e is available at local autopart for under $300
Nippondenso and Keihin hoses are not interchangable
Mounting bracket is specific to the compressor as well.
everything else is interchangable
System must be flushed before switching from R12 to R134a
I'm running R134a. I have my fans wired in parallel so that they both come on when the A/C and/or temp switch is triggered.
I tried propane to find all my leaks but I had to overcharge the hell out of the system and stay above 1500 rpm to cool off :/

[Xaisk]

a rebuild nippondenso pa15e is available at local autopart for under $300
Nippondenso and Keihin hoses are not interchangable
Mounting bracket is specific to the compressor as well.
everything else is interchangable
System must be flushed before switching from R12 to R134a
I'm running R134a. I have my fans wired in parallel so that they both come on when the A/C and/or temp switch is triggered.
I tried propane to find all my leaks but I had to overcharge the hell out of the system and stay above 1500 rpm to cool off :/

Are there any other parts other than the compressor that CANT be flushed?

ive heard your not supposed to flush the compressor. Which I wont need to since ill be getting a new one.

[Dr_Snooz]

You should change the filter. Definitely change the filter.

[Xaisk]

A/C filter? where is it located and whats it look like? also about how much do they cost?

[Dr_Snooz]

Just below the windshield washer fluid fill neck. They are about $50.

[Pnem3]

a rebuild nippondenso pa15e is available at local autopart for under $300
Nippondenso and Keihin hoses are not interchangable
Mounting bracket is specific to the compressor as well.
everything else is interchangable
System must be flushed before switching from R12 to R134a
I'm running R134a. I have my fans wired in parallel so that they both come on when the A/C and/or temp switch is triggered.
I tried propane to find all my leaks but I had to overcharge the hell out of the system and stay above 1500 rpm to cool off :/

Propane doesn't work well without isobutane. The head pressures are too high. Isobutane mixed with the propane brings the pressures down and cools everything out.

[Xaisk]

Well Fridays almost here. Im going to either get the compressor, or new speakers this check. I really want to get the compressor but I have to see if ill have enough left over after other expenses.

Getting very excited though.

[Xaisk]

Well Fridays almost here. Im going to either get the compressor, or new speakers this check. I really want to get the compressor but I have to see if ill have enough left over after other expenses.

Getting very excited though.

Well its been a hell of a week and I want to just shoot myself.

I couldnt buy the new compressor or speakers because I had to loan my gf 75 bucks. Then my bank bounced because some credit charges came out a day early. I personally am not to bothered by the money issue but I couldnt afford the new compressor.

So I decided to install the Denso I pulled outta the junkyard.
When I fired it up it was amazing to see the green A/C light flicker on..
However I looked at the compressor as it was turning and the clutch wasnt engaged. The pulley was spinning but no clutch.

So that compressor is useless.

Unless the clutch doesnt engage unless refridgerant is in it, then its seized.

Boo. Fuck my life right now.

Gonna just buy a new compressor eventually. Ive given up on a deadline.

But thanks for you guys help and advice. It was very useful. I appreciate it.

(edit)

Ok so that was the reason the clutch wasnt activating. I put some in and it activated resulting in a squealing sound like a banshee.

I tighted the belt some more and the squealing went away, and I started to hear a bubbling sound. I gave it gas a little bit because the engine wouldnt support the A/C at the level it was set.

Then I turned it off and went around to look. I seen smoke. I think the A/C compressor either,

Doesnt work,
or
Has gunk inside the clutch and pulley area that is burning away ( I.E. Power steering gunk Idk)

Im kind of scared to run it again to be honest haha.

What would you guys say?

(2nd edit)

Smells very strongly of burnt rubber.

[LX-incredible]

System needs to have over 10 psi on the low side for clutch to engage.

What exactly did you do? Install compressor without flushing system and add oil and 134a? Why ask for advice when you're going to do shit the wrong way anyway.

Go back to walmart, return whatever R134a "retrofit" bullshit you have left, buy some jensen speakers, and sweat your nuts off for the next 4 months.

[Xaisk]

System needs to have over 10 psi on the low side for clutch to engage.

What exactly did you do? Install compressor without flushing system and add oil and 134a? Why ask for advice when you're going to do shit the wrong way anyway.

Go back to walmart, return whatever R134a "retrofit" bullshit you have left, buy some jensen speakers, and sweat your nuts off for the next 4 months.

... that was uncalled for.

I indeed DID flush the system and follow the proper directions.

I spent a REALLY long time thoroughly flushing it and making sure I did it correctly. I am sunburnt to holy hell from spending all the time I did working on the damned thing.

I got the oil and R134a and charged the system after flushing it.

So unless there is something else I was supposed to do then I did it right.
Im not a moron.

I asked for advice and followed each step from the information given on the forum and other websites, so I think it a dick move of you to assume I didnt follow the directions.


The compressor I pulled from the junkyard must have been in there for a reason.
Reason being it was JUNK.

Though sometimes you can get a decent part.

Im just going to have to wait for awhile till I can buy a reman and put that one in.

On top of that, I didnt plan on buying cheap little wal-mart speakers for the thing. They would be no better than the 21 year old speakers that are installed in it now.

I find it ridiculous to get your head chewed off by other "enthusiasts" when asking for help with something.

[Civic Accord Honda]

1 when the compressor doesn't turn on it means it dosent have enough pressure to turn on thought i said that somewhere you just jump the compressor to turn on start adding freon connect it back up then finish adding freon,
once it has the proper amount of freon all should be well, if not then replace the compressor
i would turn it back on and see where smoke is coming from lol

[nfs480]

If it was squealing than the compressor was most likely seized.

[Dr_Snooz]

I wouldn't call it a bad compressor if the clutch isn't engaging. I'd call it a bad clutch.