The time has come

[Oldblueaccord]

etx14. I didnt really drive it much at all and im still not until i get things ironed out... The oil pressure is making me think maybe the screen or the filter is getting plugged or somthing

Oil cools the turbo?

I would look at oil temps and aeration of the oil.

Thats pressure I get right now at my mileage with 10w40 Havoline.


wp

[AccordEpicenter]

oil feeds and cools the turbo. Im getting ready to solve this problem now. Ill try the oil and filter change and see what its like then. The coolant leak is fixed and the oil leak seems to be possibly an axle seal in the trans. I got the plug wires to fit and got the new master cyl and wheel cyl installed and bled, but the pedal still feels weak, i think im going to have to pull the front brakes apart and see what they look like, i bled them quite a bit. Hopefully if i can get a dyno day together Ill get tuned in nov.

[guaynabo89]

sound good!

make sure to yake excessive pics/vids for no reason.

[89T]

Bump for a slow accord!

[AccordEpicenter]

ok, I changed oil and oil filter, and the oil pressure didnt rise much at all, so its still about 55-60 warm or cold, even at idle and it cant see if the relief valve opens and when by the gauge, so im in the process of changing the toga oil pump with a new honda pump. Also the brakes were still feeling weak and had a low pedal so i was like wtf? I bled them and adjusted the rears and it didnt change much, so i took a look at the front brake pads, aem performance pads, and they were all cracked to shit, literally, cracks all the way through the pad material to the backing and cracks in the pad material from end to end length wise, so I think thats def the problem. Other than that, i fixed my shifter bushing and trying to change the pump. Thats it.

[Tdurr]

videos. NOW!

[AccordEpicenter]

ugh. I changed the oil pump back to the oem honda and it had no effect. The oil pressure is still the same, so im going to try swapping oil filter bases with the relief valve etc...

Update:
Son of a bitch. I was ready to pull out the oil filter base and swap relief valves, but then I decided just to verify the gauge was working correctly. So I removed the gauge from the car and was going to use some compressed air and test it, but as soon as I got it out of the car, the needle was pointing all over the place and some pieces fell out the back! WTF?! This is a mechanical auto meter gauge btw... So i pieced it back together and fixed the linkage just to see if i could test it out, and it registered 85-90psi oil pressure at idle! Thats wayy better than the 50-60psi i was getting. So I guess it was the gauge after all!

Updatex2: Trans is fixed and battery is finally mounted. Waiting for brake pads for now...

Update x3: New brake pads in, need to bleed brakes again. Bolts for the fuel rail stripped right out and the fuel rail actually popped off while i was driving, gas everywhere (omg!!) but thats helicoiled and fixed now. Finishing up wiring some gauges.

[Tdurr]

wtf while u were driving?? thats some crazyness right there. glad it didnt end badly!
we need vidoes btw.

[89T]

jason get it done bro. waiting for u to hit the dyno.

[AccordEpicenter]

wtf while u were driving?? thats some crazyness right there. glad it didnt end badly!
we need vidoes btw.

yeah while i was driving. Could have totally gone very wrong. Im finishing up some minor details and ill prolly hit the dyno soon

[Rendon LX-i]

So is this a faulty gauge that gave you wrong readings? thats some fail right there. I would of bitch them out lol

[Tdurr]

video of the dyno please! lol i might be doing that here soon.. untuned and errything

[AccordEpicenter]

sorry dyno tune is on hold until my houses and divorce are finished or nearing completion...

[Tdurr]

divorce.. no bueno.
Good luck with that man, sorry to hear.

[Accordtheory]

[[IMG][/IMG]

Well the car runs and drives and I believe I fixed all the leaks and small ish... Its 85 in NY and the car ran cool around town, and I have the slim fan wired on all the time so thats good. I have the brake parts ordered so they should be here soon. Now the only issue Ive noticed, is that the car had great oil pressure, and it still does, at idle its about 25-30 psi hot, but it doesnt seem to want to get over 55psi, and wants to stay that way from 3000+ rpm... Im running 10w-30 and I still only have less than like 25 miles on the engine, do you guys think that could be trouble? I adjusted the clutch and the car feels much better to drive too

First, props for staying in the game and keeping a turbo 3g going. I've been slipping up with my car, seems to be the last thing I want to spend money on these days.

But as far as your car, I have a few thoughts. First thing to hit me was flipping the turbo around so it sits like a normal top mount, intake toward the driver's side and the turbine over the manifold, instead of out in front of it. That would allow you to move the radiator forward and into a much, much more ideal situation for cooling. Relocating the large mass of the turbo closer to center of the powertrain's axis of torsional vibration would be easier on the manifold, studs, etc, too. Also, if that turbo has fittings for coolant lines, I'd strongly recommend connecting them. I can't tell from your pic for certain if they're not hooked up, but I don't see it. I know a lot of people don't do it, but I remember my car going down the highway, 1400F egt, that's probably enough to cause constant damage to the oil without coolant going through the center section.

As far as the oil pressure gauge, I would Not trust that thing, you said you pieced it back together, I would have finished it off with a hammer! First you said it read too low, then it showed 85-90 at idle? Throw that thing in the trash!

P.S. Carry a fire extinguisher...

[AccordEpicenter]

First, props for staying in the game and keeping a turbo 3g going. I've been slipping up with my car, seems to be the last thing I want to spend money on these days.

But as far as your car, I have a few thoughts. First thing to hit me was flipping the turbo around so it sits like a normal top mount, intake toward the driver's side and the turbine over the manifold, instead of out in front of it. That would allow you to move the radiator forward and into a much, much more ideal situation for cooling. Relocating the large mass of the turbo closer to center of the powertrain's axis of torsional vibration would be easier on the manifold, studs, etc, too. Also, if that turbo has fittings for coolant lines, I'd strongly recommend connecting them. I can't tell from your pic for certain if they're not hooked up, but I don't see it. I know a lot of people don't do it, but I remember my car going down the highway, 1400F egt, that's probably enough to cause constant damage to the oil without coolant going through the center section.

As far as the oil pressure gauge, I would Not trust that thing, you said you pieced it back together, I would have finished it off with a hammer! First you said it read too low, then it showed 85-90 at idle? Throw that thing in the trash!

P.S. Carry a fire extinguisher...

Thanks dude! No the oil pressure gauge was replaced with a newer one! There are no water cooling options with this turbo, and an oil cooled centersection is just fine provided you have enough oil flow and let it idle before shutting the car off. I understand where you are going about the turbo's orientation but I did it this way for simplicity in routing the full 3" exhaust and making it fit... I have it ran between the engine block and the front beam near the drivers side radius rod and it barely fits. I didnt want to cut into the front beam to squeeze it in there but i could have. i really dont think i would have fit it any other way easily without adding a bunch of bends etc... Plus with the fan running the car has never overheated even in nearly 90 degree heat but i only have limited driving time on it.

Edit: Yes! Fire extinguisher is a must!

[Tdurr]

hurrry up.

[Rendon LX-i]

Looks like a mess but thats OG. lol I member watching your vids for along time. Now look at me LOL. i cant wait to tune. got everything just expect the dizzy. needs ICM and im getting that this week.

Do some cleaning up bro. I mean not to mean or nothing like that. YOu can get a smaller filter then that and your Civic Rad can set flush against the rad support.. REGRADLESS I love your build.

[AccordEpicenter]

thanks! Yeah its def not perfect!

[89T]

You'r my hero!

LOL! trying to clean up the 3 gee is a bitch. there is too much shit to get rid of, or hide. You can clock the compressor housing down and plumb over to a u bend then to the intercooler. At least thats the way I did the first one. Move the blow off under the passenger fender. I moved my full size battery behind the bumper cover on the passenger side pretty easy.

I am pretty down on one person posting in you'r thread so I'll leave it at that.

[Rendon LX-i]

O i agree. My shit looks nasty. I hate it so much. One of the guys from 3geez coming from portland to help me do the wire tuck. Im not good with that type of shit SO he said a man ill go help you. COO SHIT.

a if it wasnt for you i wouldnt be boosted. just put it that way.

[AccordEpicenter]

Ok I re bled the brakes and things seem to be better now, and I upgraded the fuel pump wiring with a relay that powers the 255 walbro intank right off the battery, to maximize pump output... I really think its just about dyno ready. I have to make sure its not leaking anything and I need to fix the speedo CEL because I didnt wire in the mod but thats about it. Ill call my friend tomorrow and discuss dyno time!

[89T]

vids are welcome in all threads! lol!
good luck.

[Rendon LX-i]

What ^ said

[Tdurr]

i need to make a vid before all of u :P
sounds good mann hurry upp