Damn. Well bigger upgrade time?
tough to say yet. Gotta talk to the machinist and see what he says
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
Sweet vids but sucks what happened to the head gasket!
machinist says the head is within spec so he reccomends changing the gasket and retorque after you heat cycle the engine. He said he had problems with some blower motors at times (he mostly builds v8 race motors) and has had good results with copper spray so it looks like im going to try this again with a felpro gasket and copper spray this time, and also re torque after heat cycling the motor.
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
Just posting to get subscribed to this thread.
Good work sir, seeing this may just be the kick in the ass I need to get going on mine again. I guess Turbo A20 is still the way to go, nothing has changed!
Looking good man!
as far as your gasket issue. Im running oem honda with copper spray using the miata studs. (18lbs and no problems) That copper spray really makes a difference too.
One thing that happened to me that was causing my cooling system to get pressurized was that the studs werent seated all the way at the bottom of the block.
If you didnt do it before I suggest a good cleaning of the threaded holes in the block and to sit there going back on forth on the studs until they hit the block.
update?
update: new headgasket installed, torqued to 80ft lb with hylomar spray (felpro) and got it back together. Came up to temp, car idled/sounded good. Drove around for a little bit and everything looked great. still on 14psi, did some boost pulls 1st-3rd gear and the temp started to climb a lil, not pegged but climb from normal. Thats not really normal for this car so i checked the coolant overflow and it was bone dry, so i checked the rad and it was rather dry and the top hose was dry, so then i checked the oil cap and voila! Chocolate milk.
SON OF A BITCH.
headgasket #2 lasted about as long as headgasket #1. motor runs good but uses water, same as before. The first headgasket was scorched between all cyls and between the water jackets and cyls from #4 and #3 the worst but they all looked like they leaked. Sounds like the motor has bigger problems than I thought... Im curious if maybe I have too much torque on the head gasket and thats causing problems
Last edited by AccordEpicenter; 07-13-2012 at 08:51 PM.
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
check the head and the block again. From what your saying it sounds like the block and the head need to be decked again
1989 Accord Lx-i hatchback (current DD project)
1986 Olds Cutlass 442 clone (never ending project)
3Geez resident body man
Owner of Wreck-less auto body
MLS group buy? I'd buy two maybe three just to have as spares
i know the head was flat, and the block was flat originally and it would take quite a bit to warp the block, so my feeling is somthing else is going on here. Maybe the studs arent seated correctly... maybe overtightening the headgasket is killing it.
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
sounds like the headgasket needs to be stronger to hold the extra pressure. im curious to see where this 2nd headgasket failed
1989 Honda Accord LX-i
B18c1 swap since 7/2011
175whp and 132tq
Redzone tuned
Weird part is, even Ryan(hondalude86) has had hg issues, and he's not boosted.. Wondering on the studs now...
jason, did you heat cycle the engine then re-torque. Were you wtching the afr's while on a pull?
un-motivated!
someone make me an offer i just could not say no to.
3GR
jerry, im on 14psi, rich, with a very conservative ignition map. I didnt heat cycle the engine and re torque, but it was torqued to 80ft lb. That should be more than adequate even if I lose some torque after it heat cycles. On my stock bottom end i have hit 17-18psi spikes and never had issues. Ive looked at the plugs, pistons and everything else and I dont see any signs of detonation. With all the leaking and issues ive seen my personal belief is that either im running out of thread on the head studs preventing the headgasket from getting the full clamping force or somthing else is preventing the head from fully seating down. The first headgasket showed signs of leakage between all cyls. Im going to have to look into guayanabo suggestion and see where im at. Im noticing that other guys running arp headstuds right now are also having problems even NA.
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
no oil leakage externally from the headgasket area... oil pressure has always been rock steady. I took 2 nuts off of the head studs to see if i was running out of thread and it looks like i have plenty of thread even if i take the washer off, the thread continues into the head, so maybe this isnt it... Ill have to see when I take the head off if i can get the headstuds to seat better but my feeling is that its a long shot.
Who knows,i might be just killing the headgasket with wayyyy too much bolt tq, 80lb ft with arp lube is like 100-110lbft with 30w oil... Stock is 49lbft with 30w oil...
Last edited by AccordEpicenter; 07-15-2012 at 06:41 PM.
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
first was honda this one was a fel pro. Ill have to pull the studs out and clean them up but after talking to the machinist and a few others it sounds like its just the head stud tq thats killing the gaskets...
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
https://www.hondapartsdeals.com has honda headgaskets. these are becoming hard to find. Speaking with a machinist and an engine builder today they estimate the engine was around 20% down on power with the blown headgaskets. I might have to make another trip to the dyno to break 500whp on paper
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
Do it! Over torquing makes sense..
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