So, my front drivers side CV axel clicks when i turn sharply with a gear engaged. Clicks pretty bad if i give it gas, so ive just been coasting in neutral around corners to avoid the clicking. Wanted to know how much trouble this is to fix, how much time do you think i have until it totally needs to be fixed? And is this just the CV boot? or do i need to replace something else? Looked around here but just couldnt find all the answers.thanks.
A torn boot just makes a mess under the car. A bad axle makes clicking noises. It's not hard to change but it is a lot of work. I think my first time doing them took me a weekend. I'd recommend having a back up car for the time you're working on it. You never know what you'll break or what will break itself. You don't to be riding across town on your bike to Sears to get a socket you didn't think you'd need.
Dr_Snooz
"I like to take hammers, and just break stuff, just break stuff." - Beavis
1989 Honda Accord LX-i Coupe, 240k miles, MT swap, rear disc swap
Shop manual downloads available here: CLICK TO VIEW
well im a pretty self sufficient college kid, no other mode of transportation. i work at a car audio shop, have a full garage with every tool, air compressor, lighting, the works. if need be i can walk to work its just down the street
pauldesign has a manual online, highly recommended...
remove axle nut, remove wheel, remove lower ball joint, remove bolt that holds the strut to the lower control arm, use a prybar to pull the shaft out of the trans. thats all i can remember, but check the manual for whatever else...
Make sure you have a large enough socket for the spindle nut(the nut that is in between the lug nuts) That is the first thing you need to remove usually you do this with the car on the ground as it can be very tight and you might need a cheater bar (something you can extend the wrench handle to make it a longer lever), if your lucky an impact will do it. Then take the wheel off. Disconnect the spindle from the lower control arm, be careful not to destroy your ball joint boot (they have a special puller tool for doing this). Last thing to be removed is the shock fork. There's a bolt through the lower control arm and one up top where it fastens to the bottom of the shock. Swing the knuckle or if you will spindle out of the way while sliding the axle out of it. Finally use a pry bar to remove the axle from the transmission being careful not to destroy the axle seal in the transmission.
GL
32mm socket for the axle nut.
Think this is a one or two person job?
I did this job by myself in a couple of hours with the help of my Haynes manual. I used a 950 ft-lb impact wrench (The Klutch from Northern Tool for $89.99) and it took the axle not off in about three seconds (didn't even pry up the locking tab) and after that the hardest part was separating the lower arm at the lower ball joint. For this you can get a Pittman Tie-rod puller from any autoparts store's loan-a-tool for free and it makes the job extremely easy.
its a one man job but its always nice to have a friend help u out with moving things or holding things and be careful with the tranny fluid because every cv i changed on these 3geez it always leaked out on me from where u pry off the cv on the tranny
Odd. I had both axles changed by my mechanic several years ago when I was on a trip and had the car in for several other things. I replaced the right axle about a year ago and it took me an hour, tops. It was the first time I ever did it myself. I used an electric impact wrench that I have had laying around in the garage since Jesus was a boy. I basically saw that there were some deep cracks in the boot and I decided to replace the axle before the thing split open and made a mess.
Last edited by DBMaster; 05-11-2010 at 07:55 AM.
yeah it doesnt seem like a super long job. im gonna give it a shot, thanks guys. ill let y'all know how it goes.
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