All I had to do was put a 4 inch slice in the case between slots, cut the stator in half, it's nothing to put a weld back on the cut and smooth it out. it's easy, i'll press the rotor off tomorrow.
All I had to do was put a 4 inch slice in the case between slots, cut the stator in half, it's nothing to put a weld back on the cut and smooth it out. it's easy, i'll press the rotor off tomorrow.
from looking at how badly burned everything was and overheated, I doubt this shaft will come off of the rotor, I think everything got pretty toasty, it's not needed anyway, the front alternator bearing is substantial, much more so then the thin bearing in the civic idler, it also has a retainer that goes behind it, it's plenty strong to act as a water pump idler, i have an axle bolt with threads on one end, it's a shoulder bolt, all i have to do is sleeve it where it goes through the bearing and pulley, I can make one sleeve and press it on the 1/2 inch axle bolt and change the diameter to 15MM
this is all I had to cut, this is a simple TIG weld to put the case back together,
you can see the size of the front bearing, it also has a retainer plate behind it. I just used an empty alternator case, because then I know the water pump belt is perfectly aligned.
I need to put the back cover back on, and put a dummy lead wire and plug out of it, just to see how many people are sharp enough to realize the case is empty lol
im guessing it will have a bit of a different sound to it?Originally Posted by lostforawhile
shouldn't have any sound, it's just an empty shell and bearing, I would have sure hated to make an idler bracket and make it work, this is the easiest way to do that.im guessing it will have a bit of a different sound to it?
It should last for a while, it doesn't have that many miles on it, it's a Nappa rebuild which seems to be decent quality, I would never buy a Vatozone or an un advanced brand.
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