Hey, I thought you guys might be interested in something I've been working on. At the moment I'm too lazy to rehash it all here but check out the thread on Preludepower.
http://preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=331411
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Hey, I thought you guys might be interested in something I've been working on. At the moment I'm too lazy to rehash it all here but check out the thread on Preludepower.
http://preludepower.com/forums/showthread.php?t=331411
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nice! What did you have to do to get the rear to fit? I might go from a solid mount in the rear to somthing like this.
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
It would likely be the same as the front, as you can use the rear mounts as replacements for the front. DX prelude came with the same mounts for the front and rear. The front accord crossmember has 2 sets of holes, one that matches the rear.
Very cool!
It would be interesting to see how it all holds up. The brackets could be easily reinforced with a little welding if necessary. Not sure on the mounts, as they don't see much stress in the applications they were designed for.
ive used rear mounts front and rear on my car, this is a pretty neat idea
Correct. As far as I can tell, this mount setup should work in the front and rear for ALL 3g Accords and 2G Preludes.
I don't think any of the brackets will be a problem unless you are running a pretty serious engine. What are the turbo guys doing for mounts?
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Good idea I suggested energy suspension mounts years ago, but I never got around to figuring out how to adapt them to the cross members. gets some dimensions up so i can fabricate them, I went as far as going to autozone and measuring dimensions for these. I also made a large aluminum bushing for the rear dog bone, with a steel center for the bolt, and a stock small bushing. it took out the majority of the engine movement. I think one of the reasons the rear and front mounts tear so often, is the dog bones get worn out, then the engine has excessive movement putting even more strain on the mounts. I'll keep my dog bone also, as it's a bracket for some underhood items now, but i think the combination of these front and rear mounts with it will really make a difference.
Last edited by lostforawhile; 05-18-2010 at 12:33 PM.
i got tired of breaking motor mounts, esp the front, so now i run solid mounts. Ive tried 3m window weld filled mounts before, and they lasted longer but still broke.
429whp 362wtq A20 TURBO. A20T>*
I think on the turbo cars, a combination of these and the rear dog bone would be a good idea. that dog bone can be made much stiffer. The problem with the mounts is the liquid filled mount, the idea was to keep these cars from being like the american buzz box engines of the time, the engines are so smooth though, that the liquid mount really wasn't needed.
you can just see my solid aluminum insert in ehe dog bone, i made a steel insert to prevent wear, and pressed the mount into the dog bone. the smaller one is a stiff poly material, it transmits some sound, but it's worth the effort.
For a turbo engine with big power it might be good to keep the dog bone.
So far the new poly mounts are doing well. They do transmit a fair amount of vibration to the rest of the car though at certain RPMs. The front bumper seems to shake a lot for some reason. I'm pondering whether some strategically placed gussets from the front cross member to the body might help. It's only supported at the ends and the engine is mounted to it nearly in the center. Or perhaps filling it with foam would help. Hmmmm...
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Well, I've had a couple people ask about these so I'm going to throw out a price and see how many people would be interested. Lets say I can make these for $20 each for the bare brackets, or $25 each with black powder coating. How many people would be interested in picking up a set? You would need two per engine, one front, one rear. You can get the poly mounts online or at many auto parts stores for $25-$30 each. So the total cost for doing the conversion on both mounts would be about $100. At the moment I just want to see how many would be interested. I wouldn't be taking any money until I have parts to ship, so there is no commitment.
I'll be posting this over on PreludePower as well.
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now the factory steel engine mount brackets still are used correct? they just attach to these adapters? i have a modified rear mount bracket, it still bolts to a factory mount, it's really important to keep my engine from rocking since clearances are so close with the carbs
That is correct. The whole idea was for this to be a direct bolt on replacement for the factory motor mounts. This bracket plus poly mount combo is about as close to solid mounts as you can get without actually being solid.
Be warned though that these will transmit more vibration to the rest of the car. It doesn't bother me personally, but if you like to have a smooth quiet ride these are probably not for you. (not you specifically Lost, but everyone in general)
There's already enough interest over on Preludpower to make it worthwhile for me to make up a bunch of these, so it's pretty much going to happen. I'm not sure exactly when, but best guess is 2-3 weeks, especially for the coated ones. The coating guys get backed up sometimes.
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I can just spray them with epoxy paint from VHT stuff is indestructible, i probably have a half can left, it uses both the front and rear factory mount or do I need two rear mounts like some of the other conversions? the vibration is not a problem, ui already have a nearly solid dog bone, so it already transmits some vibration. every nut and bolt in the car is loctited anyway
The bracket is universal (as is the poly mount), so it works for front and rear. You should probably check your front cross member to make sure it has the alternate set of holes that match the bolt pattern of the factory rear mount, but I have yet to see a 3g that doesn't.
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I would definitely be in for two. You sir, are an innovator
I would just like one please.
Ill take 2 possible 3 let me know when they are ready. Id like the 2 for sure powdered. these are sets of 2 not individual mounts. Thanks
Last edited by mykwikcoupe; 07-10-2010 at 12:34 PM.
Ill do 2 powdercoated then, black of course.
1986 Honda Accord Lx-i
~~NGK~~Silvania~~MSD~~Pioneer~~MSW~~Bosch~~DC Sports~~115WHP 116WTQ
Awesome! I'm starting a list here mostly just to help me keep track of who wants what. This is in no particular order.
- Lostforawhile, 1 pair, uncoated
- 2DRSE-i, 1 pair, coated
- 87roach, 1 pair or 1 mount?, coated
- Mykwikcoupe, 2 pairs, coated
- Mykwikcoupe, 1 pair, uncoated
- Mushroom_toy, 2 pairs or 2 mounts?, coated
Not sure if some of you guys are talking about pairs or single mounts, so let me know if I got it wrong. Also, there is no commitment implied here, I just want to make sure I make enough. I'll make some extras too for latecomers.
I'm planning to order the material this weekend so it should show up towards the end of the week.
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i would like a set but would not be able to order soon because money is tight next month maby
That's fine guys, whenever you're ready.
- Lostforawhile, 1 pair, uncoated
- 2DRSE-i, 1 pair, coated
- 87roach, 1 pair or 1 mount?, coated
- Mykwikcoupe, 2 pairs, coated
- Mykwikcoupe, 1 pair, uncoated
- Mushroom_toy, 2 pairs or 2 mounts?, coated
- Gtmst3, 1 pair, coated
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I was looking at all the 3gs at the junkyard awhile back and noticed that a few of them have a cast front engine bracket, while some are stamped. They're pretty close in terms of shape but not exactly the same. There weren't enough cars at the yard to figure out any kind of pattern as to which cars have what brackets. So I'm hoping you guys can help. If your front engine bracket looks like the one in this picture, could you tell me the year, model (DX/LX/LX-i/SE-i), and transmission type in you car?
As far as I can tell all the 3gs use the same front mount, and the engine blocks are all the same. So the only thing that could be different is the cross members. This shouldn't have any effect on the adapter brackets I'm making but I want to understand the difference to make sure.
Thanks!
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