this is a kit for our cars very expensive..
but then we have these
can I just get one of those 50$ ones?
thanks.
this is a kit for our cars very expensive..
but then we have these
can I just get one of those 50$ ones?
thanks.
Remember, you get what you pay for.
Those will require rejetting for our application and you will still need to find someway to adapt it to our manifold. 315 is a pretty good deal on the kit.
I gues the difference is whether you want to do the conversion in a few hours or if you want to tinker with it for a long time making something work.
88 LX 5spd l 32/36 weber l KYB GR-2's l Refreshed A20A3 engine l
I'm not a lazy boy , and the car is just for fun..
I'll think about it, but I have to do aomething with the carb,
mine is in a bad situation and after getting the rebuild kit I got the carb out and it looks so complicated
and useless with all of those vacoom lines comming out of it
so I thought of getting this Webber and also getting rid of all the unnecessary vacoom lines..
$314 is not that bad man. You ever see what people pay for ITBs and other performance carbs? A rebuilt stock carb is somewhere over $200.
The DFAV will drop onto the standard 32/36 adapter plate, but the carb is essentially a mirror version of the DGAV, so it's like flipped backwards. There may be issues making the throttle cable reach properly or something. The kit is good assurance that the carb will drop right on. You'll either pay with your time or with your money, as greentee said.
DFAV works fine you just have to make sure you put the primary barrel over the primary port. Your throttle will be on the opposite side and you just have to make some bracketry to make it work. YOu would have to do it anyway even with the DGV. There are PLENTY of bolt holes on the intake you wont be needing for the OEM garbage. I even used one of the egr studs to bolt the scab bracket. That is a generic exhaust hangar which worked ok. Be sure to use the OEM cable cam piece that crecent shaped thing. Ignore the rigging I used to retain the cable .. that was temporary lol
I think I may have some pics of my DFEV set up somewhere. I think I used the same bracket on the DGV at one point.
Ive bought webers at the JY but you have to clean the crap out of them, some are not worth messing with. Use good judgement, take the tophat off before you buy one in the JY>I
Last edited by 2oodoor; 05-20-2010 at 02:29 PM.
One more with it on the B20 and my custom manifold with egr completley removed. I never attached the cable but you can see the hardware on the throttle, all is needed is an anchor for the cable and to make it adjustable using the OEM jam nut set up. Easy to do really.
sorry , but what DFAV and DGV stand for?
thanks.
Don't get rid of your oem carburetor its fine.
Take it apart.. all of it.. then inspect/clean everything, and replace what you know looks
bad.
TAKE YOUR TIME...don't try and do it all in one day.
If you think this carburetor is to complicated, then don't do a weber conversion.
it is painfully obvious you have no idea, no friggen idea, absolutely not a dam clue, beyond any reasonable doubt uncharted territory in your journal of travels
It is not so much the carb itself, I will give you that but the controls and devices all under the hood all related to these oem carbs.
bye, sianara im out
if I take the oem one out and put a Webber in , then I can get rid of a lot of vacuum accesories , right?
>>>> I mean now did you see any in any of the pictures I provided.. need you ask? PVC< brake booster and vaccuum advance is all you will need for vacuum items.. also cruise control if you use that.
Ok I filled this chair up again with as much and still another bit of junk was no longer needed. It was about a 30 gallon trash can compacted, full of stuff the car did not need any longer.
Last edited by 2oodoor; 05-27-2010 at 10:08 AM.
You can pass emissions with a weber 32/36 depending on where you are, it will pass the sniffer if you detune it slightly which takes every bit of 20 minutes to change jets ....
but will not pass a visual esp if you use an aftermarket looking air cleaner and have vac plugs all over it showing.
Roodoo , where are those pictures you provided?
is ther a "how to to" with this carb exchanging?
thanks..
ohh.. I thought you have a thread somewhere , thanks
All I really was trying to say was don,t switch to a weber just because it suddenly started running rough, try and fix it if you can.
If you are wanting to do it just because you want to, then thats cool too.
Thats my opinion and I think you should have yours, and the next guy etc.
without being jumped. It's not your job big guy to jump anyone here with their own opinion, especially if you don't know them.
If you know me and don't like me fair enough, but if you don't know me and don't like me thats just damn foolishness.
no need to fight..
I want to replace the carb because
mine is in a bad situation
the weber should be more reliable
the weber will help cleaning the engine compartment
the weber should add some power over the standard one
the weber... is $$$
To be honest about it I worked on my car for a month before finding the problem, during that time Weber was in the back of my mind.
My comment wasn't any more or less assertive than yours so forget it. I am only trying to help. If you are an expert or have gained any knowledge others can use specifically related to the oem carb system..well then we certainly could use more resident members to help with those and I will leave it at that.
Ive never paid much for any of the Weber carbs I have. There are plenty around and you only have to look for them. The best 32/36 DGV5A I had was purchased at the junkyard. I was 25 bucks and only because I didn't have a core, it would have been less. It was under the hood of a mazda pickup, someone had converted it. Ive seen several even as recent as this month, all in salvage yards.
It was a universal replacement carb for years and also the Holley version of it can be found on a bunch of American 4 cyl and some 6 cyl.. also look under the hood of jeeps. It is probably the easiest carb ever to service.
Last edited by 2oodoor; 05-27-2010 at 02:58 PM.
^^ This guy knows his shit. I've got like 4 or 5 webers and holleys sitting around my house. Tons of parts for em. When you start looking you find them everywhere. Brand new ones are nice, but if you know how to make an old one work, you're golden.
is one of them for sale?
The problem is that there are few resources for info on the OEM feedback system. Also when pieces of the feedback system go bad they cost alot of money, if they can be found at all. Replacing just a couple of those pieces could easily cost as much or more than the Weber conversion.
My 2 cents....
88 LX 5spd l 32/36 weber l KYB GR-2's l Refreshed A20A3 engine l
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