Originally Posted by Importordomestic
If your busy man, work comes first! I don't know that I will need to re-pin the ECU wires. The sub harness I have is a plug and play. Most likely what I will have to re-pin is the Engine harness, and maybe the wiring coming from the fender.
No haters here, Texas is even more south lol!
I see some rotaries up in ther.
back to topic.
You will around my shop. I own 3 Fc3s 2 on megasquirt.I see some rotaries up in ther.
back to topic.
but back to topic....
88 - Hatch - FF class track car Major Upgrades!
87 - Hatch - DD
88 rx7 turbo II - FR class track car - blown engine
86 rx7 NA - Under Construction
90 240 hatch - SOLD
You may not have to re-pin at all. BUt the wires in the fender you will have to run some of them as they connect the distributor, vtec solonoid, 2nd o2 sensor, and in my case the knock sensor.
What you need from me is the pinout and what wire connects to what. from that information alone you will be able to get it up and running.
88 - Hatch - FF class track car Major Upgrades!
87 - Hatch - DD
88 rx7 turbo II - FR class track car - blown engine
86 rx7 NA - Under Construction
90 240 hatch - SOLD
Ok sounds good, So I will need to take the wires that run to the Injector resistor box and solder them all together correct? I believe I had to do that with my last one to, but I can't fully remember.You may not have to re-pin at all. BUt the wires in the fender you will have to run some of them as they connect the distributor, vtec solonoid, 2nd o2 sensor, and in my case the knock sensor.
What you need from me is the pinout and what wire connects to what. from that information alone you will be able to get it up and running.
yes the 4 red wires with black stripes coming from the fuel injectors will need to be soldered together and connected to the yellow wire with black stripe. (the yellow wire is the original 12volt fused lead that fed the resistor box.
Note: this wiring method is only if you are using High Impedance injectors. low impedance injectors will require you to utilize the resistor box. you can test the fuel injector by using a multi meter across the 2 pins. low impedance fuel injector is 2-3ohms and high impedance is around 12 ohms.
http://www.hondata.com/techlowohminjectors.html - good read
any other imediate questions? We still need to run the shielded wire from the distributor to the ecu adapter harness you have. I dont remember the wire colors off the top of my head. I will have that for you tonight.
Tip: in order for the shielded wire to work you have to ground the shielding wire strand to the car body. I grounded mine at the ecu before connection.
Last edited by Importordomestic; 06-15-2010 at 11:42 AM.
88 - Hatch - FF class track car Major Upgrades!
87 - Hatch - DD
88 rx7 turbo II - FR class track car - blown engine
86 rx7 NA - Under Construction
90 240 hatch - SOLD
yeah dont skimp on the shielded wiring. Oem is grounded at ecu as well.
alright ive got all the information together for a writeup but your needs are a little different. I will give you wire color of under the hood connections of what connects to what. also was your conversion jumper a special made for the 3rd gen accord or is it a standard obd0 - obd1 conversion jumper? this will give me a better idea of how to connect your system up.
Legend_Master - if you have a custom jumper harness, you may not have to do some of these steps.
in the mean time here is the ecu pinout diagram of the obd0 connectors.
I will do this in phases. ecu connections then instrument cluster, dizzy, alternator.
the following steps will walk you through a re pin of the 3rd gen harness to connect a OBD-0 Vtec ECU like the JDM Pr3-j50/j51 to the harness and have it running in a couple of hours.
Also this will prep your wiring harness for any off the shelf OBD-0 to OBD1 Acura Integra jumper harness.
NOTE: If you look at the connector from the rear, the top left is pin 1 the wire below is pin 2....so on and so forth.
ECU Plug A
a1 - injector 1 (brown)
a2 - main relay (black)
a3 - injector 2 (red)
a4 - main relay (black)
a5 - injector 3 (blue)
a6 - main relay (green with black stripe / same as a12)
a7 - injector 4 (yellow)
a8 - bypass control solonoid (white)
a9 - NOT A REAL PIN
a10 - EGR lift solonoid (red)
a11 - EACV control (black with blue stripe)
a12 - Main relay (green with black stripe / same as a6)
a13 - power feed to the resistor box (Yellow with black stripe / sam as a15)
a14 - NOT USED
a15 - power feed to the resistor box (Yellow with black stripe / sam as a13)
a16 - Engine ground for ECU (Brown with black stripe)
a17 - Fused ECU power (White with yellow stripe)
a18 - Engine ground for ECU (Black with red stripe)
Modifications and pin locations notes and what to do with wires.
for PLug A marked in RED
All of the wires for ECU plug A can be located in the engine bay driver side female connector, except where noted differently.
a1 - injector 1 (brown) connect to injector
a2 - main relay (black) Tap wire and add a connection to direct ground. Without Main relay will not fire up and fuel pump will not run. see picture
a3 - injector 2 (red) connect to injector
a4 - main relay (black)
a5 - injector 3 (blue) connect to injector
a6 - main relay (green with black stripe / same as a12) Remove pin from plug and move it to pin location 14. see picture
a7 - injector 4 (yellow) connect to injector
a8 - connect to Vtec Solonoid. you can utilize the stock wiring harness in the car. the white wire is located in the main plug that connected the vaccume box on the firewall. see picture
a9 - NOT A REAL PIN
a10 - EGR lift solonoid (red) not used
a11 - EACV control (black with blue stripe) Connect to EACV.
NOTE: The EACV also requires a direct fused link to 12v This will be the rather large black wire with yellow stripe located in the female chassis side harness connector.
a12 - Main relay (green with black stripe / same as a6)
a13 - power feed to the resistor box (Yellow with black stripe / sam as a15) this connects directly to the resistor pack for the fuel injectors. NOTE: when using high impedance injectors you will connect this wire directly to the positive side (red wire with black stripe) of the fuel injectos.
a14 - pin a6 (green wire wit hblack stripe) is to be placed here.
a15 - power feed to the resistor box (Yellow with black stripe / sam as a13)
a16 - Engine ground for ECU (Brown with black stripe) Ground to engine
a17 - Fused ECU power (White with yellow stripe) remove from plug tape up and discard see picture
a18 - Engine ground for ECU (Black with red stripe) Ground to engine
I will cover the other ECU plugs when i get off work, takes alot to put it in so much detail.
88 - Hatch - FF class track car Major Upgrades!
87 - Hatch - DD
88 rx7 turbo II - FR class track car - blown engine
86 rx7 NA - Under Construction
90 240 hatch - SOLD
This thread has been really fun to follow. I just hopped on and got myself up to speed.
My only question. Why are you doing this in the first place? What's wrong with your original hatch?
Awesome man, just awesome, very detailed and easy to understand. I am going to get started on this tonight, I will update you as I get more done. Thanks again!alright ive got all the information together for a writeup but your needs are a little different. I will give you wire color of under the hood connections of what connects to what. also was your conversion jumper a special made for the 3rd gen accord or is it a standard obd0 - obd1 conversion jumper? this will give me a better idea of how to connect your system up.
Legend_Master - if you have a custom jumper harness, you may not have to do some of these steps.
in the mean time here is the ecu pinout diagram of the obd0 connectors.
I will do this in phases. ecu connections then instrument cluster, dizzy, alternator.
the following steps will walk you through a re pin of the 3rd gen harness to connect a OBD-0 Vtec ECU like the JDM Pr3-j50/j51 to the harness and have it running in a couple of hours.
Also this will prep your wiring harness for any off the shelf OBD-0 to OBD1 Acura Integra jumper harness.
NOTE: If you look at the connector from the rear, the top left is pin 1 the wire below is pin 2....so on and so forth.
ECU Plug A
a1 - injector 1 (brown)
a2 - main relay (black)
a3 - injector 2 (red)
a4 - main relay (black)
a5 - injector 3 (blue)
a6 - main relay (green with black stripe / same as a12)
a7 - injector 4 (yellow)
a8 - bypass control solonoid (white)
a9 - NOT A REAL PIN
a10 - EGR lift solonoid (red)
a11 - EACV control (black with blue stripe)
a12 - Main relay (green with black stripe / same as a6)
a13 - power feed to the resistor box (Yellow with black stripe / sam as a15)
a14 - NOT USED
a15 - power feed to the resistor box (Yellow with black stripe / sam as a13)
a16 - Engine ground for ECU (Brown with black stripe)
a17 - Fused ECU power (White with yellow stripe)
a18 - Engine ground for ECU (Black with red stripe)
Modifications and pin locations notes and what to do with wires.
for PLug A marked in RED
All of the wires for ECU plug A can be located in the engine bay driver side female connector, except where noted differently.
a1 - injector 1 (brown) connect to injector
a2 - main relay (black) Tap wire and add a connection to direct ground. Without Main relay will not fire up and fuel pump will not run. see picture
a3 - injector 2 (red) connect to injector
a4 - main relay (black)
a5 - injector 3 (blue) connect to injector
a6 - main relay (green with black stripe / same as a12) Remove pin from plug and move it to pin location 14. see picture
a7 - injector 4 (yellow) connect to injector
a8 - connect to Vtec Solonoid. you can utilize the stock wiring harness in the car. the white wire is located in the main plug that connected the vaccume box on the firewall. see picture
a9 - NOT A REAL PIN
a10 - EGR lift solonoid (red) not used
a11 - EACV control (black with blue stripe) Connect to EACV.
NOTE: The EACV also requires a direct fused link to 12v This will be the rather large black wire with yellow stripe located in the female chassis side harness connector.
a12 - Main relay (green with black stripe / same as a6)
a13 - power feed to the resistor box (Yellow with black stripe / sam as a15) this connects directly to the resistor pack for the fuel injectors. NOTE: when using high impedance injectors you will connect this wire directly to the positive side (red wire with black stripe) of the fuel injectos.
a14 - pin a6 (green wire wit hblack stripe) is to be placed here.
a15 - power feed to the resistor box (Yellow with black stripe / sam as a13)
a16 - Engine ground for ECU (Brown with black stripe) Ground to engine
a17 - Fused ECU power (White with yellow stripe) remove from plug tape up and discard see picture
a18 - Engine ground for ECU (Black with red stripe) Ground to engine
I will cover the other ECU plugs when i get off work, takes alot to put it in so much detail.
I was rear ended by a Landrover, and the body was unusable. So decided to move everything over to a good body!
Wreck thread, pictures are on page 3
Suspension swap thread, and goodbye to the old one
No... Thank you. I feel that I owe you a great deal. Without your brake research I would have had to start at square 1. I am not sure If I would have come out with the same results if you didnt provide us with that information.
Once you are up and running we will have all the information needed to make a how to thread.
88 - Hatch - FF class track car Major Upgrades!
87 - Hatch - DD
88 rx7 turbo II - FR class track car - blown engine
86 rx7 NA - Under Construction
90 240 hatch - SOLD
Well I'll be following with interest.
And I want to feature it when it's done!
Well we will be even after this lol. I have decided Im going to do exactly what you have done, and I will re-pin the ECU jumper harness as needed to work with your wiring. So this should make things more simple in the long run.
Awesome, sounds like a plan!
this thread is awesome!
This was my thought as well. But in my case I had no choice but to re-pin as I am using a OBd-0 JDM Vtec ECU. I have a OBD-1 p72 GSR ECU but I havent finished chipping it yet. I am in the middle of makeing my OBD-0 to OBD-1 jumper harness. I will put that up for you as well, since you decided to go the exact same route as I did. In the end It will be clean and super simple to diagnose as it will match stock ecu wiring.
P.S. My first car was a 86 accord lxi hatch Charcoal Grey RIP
Last edited by Importordomestic; 06-16-2010 at 08:46 AM.
88 - Hatch - FF class track car Major Upgrades!
87 - Hatch - DD
88 rx7 turbo II - FR class track car - blown engine
86 rx7 NA - Under Construction
90 240 hatch - SOLD
This was my thought as well. But in my case I had no choice but to re-pin as I am using a OBd-0 JDM Vtec ECU. I have a OBD-1 p72 GSR ECU but I havent finished chipping it yet. I am in the middle of makeing my OBD-0 to OBD-1 jumper harness. I will put that up for you as well, since you decided to go the exact same route as I did. In the end It will be clean and super simple to diagnose as it will match stock ecu wiring.
P.S. My first car was a 86 accord lxi hatch Charcoal Grey RIP
Heres a couple shots of my ecu jumper harness.
The wires out of the middle run to a plug that connects directly to the engine harness. Im sure we can wire it into the sub harness
I'm gonna diagram where each wire goes, and post it up.
Alright here is the pin-out diagram for my sub harness. I didnt diagram the harness that splits out, but Im pretty sure its for all the items that dont come on the factory A20 harness. The way this works is
HA1 - EA1 = Harness side A1 - ECU side A1
Last edited by Legend_master; 06-16-2010 at 04:04 PM.
Oh that is goign to be awesome. With that we can pin everything to make it all happy and crank first try. I will have more of the writeup tonightHeres a couple shots of my ecu jumper harness.
The wires out of the middle run to a plug that connects directly to the engine harness. Im sure we can wire it into the sub harness
I'm gonna diagram where each wire goes, and post it up.
88 - Hatch - FF class track car Major Upgrades!
87 - Hatch - DD
88 rx7 turbo II - FR class track car - blown engine
86 rx7 NA - Under Construction
90 240 hatch - SOLD
You can take you time, I wont be able to work on it till Saturday. Hoping to have most the wiring at least hooked up on the first day of working on it. Let me know if I need to diagram the split that comes off the sub harness?
dang already done. I will check the mapping of the pins, and get back to you.
88 - Hatch - FF class track car Major Upgrades!
87 - Hatch - DD
88 rx7 turbo II - FR class track car - blown engine
86 rx7 NA - Under Construction
90 240 hatch - SOLD
Please that way I can map out where those go as well unless you already know.
It took me one day to run all the wires. fire the engine up remove wires and loom.
88 - Hatch - FF class track car Major Upgrades!
87 - Hatch - DD
88 rx7 turbo II - FR class track car - blown engine
86 rx7 NA - Under Construction
90 240 hatch - SOLD
Its prttey fnuny how you can raed tihs eintre snetnece with all tehse ellters out of palce...
My Build Thread
For the split I will have to do color codes, Im gonna try to use another old connection to make the diagram. For now I will use the color of the wire coming off the split.
Grey - EA11
White - EA6
Green - EA14
red - EB14
Yellow - EA5
Orange - EC12
Purple - EA19
Black - EA15
Brown - EA16
Blue - EC13
Im gonna call this section of the harness D, but let me see what connection ends I am going to use. Then I will build a visual diagram.
This is the connection Im going to use as connection D. Its a left over harness from my wire tuck. Ive got both ends, so it will work perfectly. It should make for easy removal of the sub harness if I have to take it out of the car.
Grey - EA11 = D6
White - EA6 = D5
Green - EA14 = D12
red - EB14 = D7
Yellow - EA5 = D11
Orange - EC12 = D9
Purple - EA19 = D4
Black - EA15 = D13
Brown - EA16 = D1
Blue - EC13 = D3
Heres the final hack job lol.
Man, thank god 4 who ever invented jumper harnesses. Even though u gotta go 2 space n back 2 find 1 affordable or at all 4 r 3rd gens.
BIG N BAD WIT VTEC
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
Bookmarks